Anglinarcher

In general, dyes won't penetrate cured plastisol. I can think of several ways that might work, but, never finding that worm or pattern all that effective I have not tried it. Perhaps starting out with the mold, then pouring the base color. Then airbrushing a gradient onto the inside of the mold, placing the worm back in, then heating the mold to about 300 degrees to just soften and reset the plastic. Not an efficient method, but, it might work. I know this is not how it is done, but perhaps molding the base, then airbrushing the bait. Then dipping in clear. It would take out some of the surface detail, but it would work. I bet other methods can be thought of as well.

Spike-It makes a garlic dip that works pretty well also. It is pretty permanent, usually does not get sticky, etc., etc. But, keakar is right about the best results coming from molding the different tail color. The color you get from dipping depends on the color you are dipping over. Dipping a white gives good results while dipping a black gives lousy results. Molding always gives excellent color results.

Asking for the brand of plastisol is like asking if I prefer blonds, brunettes, or redheads. Of course, the answer is yes. Each of us are going to have our own preference and telling you I prefer Alumilite will only fire up those that prefer another. As for reheating, well it won't discolor as much as you think if done correctly. Adding a little heat stabilizer after the first heat, using a microwave on medium power and mixing frequently, adding a percentage of new/fresh plastisol with each heat, all help. When it does start to discolor, you take what is left and save it for a colored mix later. I suspect now that I have broken the ice some of the power powers will chime in. I do have a narrow but tall lab grade beaker that I have used to clear coat some plastics. Check out the laboratory supply houses for that item.

Good clarification. If glue was not tough enough for the hobbyist, try sonic welding and try to get it sealed. LOL

Several years ago SolarRes was the hit UV clear coat. At the time the complaint was that the clear had a slight haze to it, but it could be polished off after cured. Also, curing for 30 seconds, then resting, then curing seemed to work. When AlumiUV came out that was what I went to. I like it. I still use a fingernail UV cure box that I got way back when but they are still sold on EBAY and Amazon. I someday plan on making a full sized curing box like shown on Alumilite's videos. I won't get into an argument about what is best, which clear does this or that, but I have been really happy with the AlumiUV. I hope this helps some.

The commercial injected baits are all melted plastic injected under extreme pressure. That is what ABS is and it works great, if you are a big commercial producer. For home pour, Alumilite is the best option IMHO, but getting the exact ABS results is not going to happen with today's technology to the best of my knowledge. I use Alumilite and find it works well, but variations to your design will results in some great options. First, with ABS it is mostly hollow baits that are glued together. While I do hollow baits with Alumilite White, I rotomold to get them. I have not found a glue that secures Alumilite White to each other, but perhaps Alumilite can help with that.

Funny, we can't sell the pivot head jigs at the store I work at, had to clear them out. But, those of us in the know love them. I vote for the flat bottom, but if I can only get the other then no problem.

That looks like a real killer.

Flex 70 cures to a light translucent yellow, not clear and colorless, so that is an issue for sure. What I am confused about is "They tear up". Are you sure you mixed it well. Both the A and B parts must be mixed very well before the two parts are combined and mixed. Part A and part B separate in the containers when left to sit. I found that out the hard way myself. Ugggg. Yes, Smooth-On also has similar products, but they also need to be mixed. Good luck in your endeavors.

Yep, Bass is correct, especially about mixing. Even new Plastisol separates and can even hard pan at the bottom of the bottle. Some brands are better then others, but all do it over time. Mix, mix again, then mix like you really mean it, and you should be fine. If all else fails, get some plastisol hardener and add just a little.

Come out to Utah and Fish for the Channel Cats at Utah Lake or Willard. You WILL catch cats on your fly. These fish are as aggressive at the walleye and Wipers here. LOL

They work good for Steelhead, Salmon, trout on occasion, and many Saltwater species. But they are not the ideal solution to all problems. Because Steelhead and Salmon, at least the ocean run ones of the Pacific Northwest, do not feed once they enter the rivers, they are hitting out of anger, spite, territory, etc. Glow just offers them another reason for them to strike. I have found that night fishing for Big Browns and Bows with just a touch of glow seems to really help. Having said that, too much seems to turn them off. These are mostly feeding fish, not hitting out of anger, spite, etc., so I think that it runs them off. I have tried it for Walleye and Bass at night and find that I do much better without the glow. In fact, I do not recall catching a single Bass on glow at night and few Walleye took my streamers with glow. Not sure why, just unformed theories. I don't know if this helps of not, but this is my experience.

With all of the knock offs out there, I suspect it is a Bagley copy. Sure looks like one to me.

There have been a lot of great concerns expressed here, and great answers. What has impressed me is that no one has over promised anything. I think Larry Dahlberg could be asked about outsourcing lures. His Wopper Plopper is copied by almost every company now, and the common thread is China. Even if you get a design that they make right, it likley will be copied, altered slightly, then sold at half the cost. His Wide Glide was so inconsistent from the lure maker that it is no longer in production. I still have two that were right, and they catch everything from Brown Trout, to Large and Small Mouth Bass, to Pike and Muskie. I hope I never loose one or I will be "reverse engineering" them myself. His Mr. Wiggly is another fantastic lure, even easy to make your own version of, but somehow China could not get it right/consistent. On a side note, I am actually the Fishing Manager of a store for a US Chain of outdoor stores. I know that if we can't get a commitment, and follow through, for sufficient product, we drop the manufacture. It seems harsh, but having empty shelves cost money. So, what if you tool up and then can't supply the "X" items per month/year? I made up a batch of one of mine, for myself, family, friends, and my wife saw them when I was out of town. She sold them on Ebay for $50 a piece. She said, see, you can make money on them. Perhaps, but if she reads this thread, she will think twice about it.

I do believe that anyone that fishes long enough will have that problem. If barbless hooks were not so darned expensive, and almost impossible to find in many styles, I would just change over. Don't really need that barb anymore if you keep the line tight. I'm getting pretty good at removing mine with pliers, heavy line, .......... but I don't want to do it on anyone else.

The good book says truth should come from the mouth of two or more witnesses. I'll second Swimb8s words.

Of course we need to say get a voltage meter and test it, they are cheep enough now. But, I would be shocked (pun intended) if it was anything but 12V DC.

If the baits are flat or pretty much simple, like a worm, it works fine. If they have detail, like fins, boot tails, etc., they tend to get crushed out of shape. At least, that is what happeded to mine. But...... sure pushed the scent deep into the plastic over time. LOL

Unfortunately, you are about to start a very hard and very frustrating search. With few, if no exceptions, you can paint excellent chrome or metallic gold but the clear coat kills it. The paint by itself will not hold up well enough. Platting is expensive, but is the standard in the industry. Some of us are experimenting with foils, and on the right lure, with the right technique, the results are fantastic. Some of us are using glitter type paint if you will (http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Aluminum-Base-Coat-Fine-4oz/productinfo/162645/) and I find it gives pretty good results, but sure not a good chrome. Full disclosure, I am a hobbyist, not a "professional" so perhaps there is something that I missed, or something someone else had held back, but......... Technology is always improving so maybe this is the thread that will capture it. Has anyone tried to spaz stix brand paint? Yep, had wonderful results, right up till I cleared it. I tried D2T, Solerez, AlumiUV, and others. Good luck, I wish you the best.

Depends on the paint I use, how I cure the paint, etc., etc. Lots of variables. But, for my method, which I don't profess is the best, I wait overnight.

Small amounts are easier to get "correct" with a scale, and you can get one at Harbor Freight cheap. Larger amounts are more then close enough. Larry Dahlberg normally uses the pump that puts out a fluid oz with each pump. So, he uses the pump and makes batches 2 floz ea.

First, mix the stuff in the containers very very well. It seperates some and you want a uniform mix, so shake up the containers first. Mixing by volume or weight will work just fine. It is more then close enough.

Check out makelure.com and check out their videos. It is the best place (for videos) I know of for the basics of plastic or resin lure making in one place. Making lures is never cheep to get started and there is a learning process. But, once you get the basics mastered, it can keep the price down and the satisfaction level up.

Not quite sure what you mean by thinner. All powder coat paints are, well, powder, and by their nature are the same "thickness". If it is going on two thick, you are either not getting your item hot enough, leaving it in the powder too long, or ...... I think I am a bit confused on this one.