Cormorant Lures

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Definately sounds like the dents are coming from "suckback" due to not enough plastic in the sprue... As your mold gets hotter, you will notice that your sprues will become almost completely hollow at times... As your plastic starts to cool inside the cavity of the mold, it pulls in plastic from the sprue to fill in the remainder of the cavity... If you are not "topping off" your sprue, the cooling of your bait will start to suck in air and not plastic... I believe this is the process that is causing the dent(s) in the nose of your flukes...

WOW! It is a great price! I'll be buying those the next time I need bags for sure!

I am not a Lureworks expert... This is only the second batch of Pourasol I have ever ordered... My questions are as follows: How long has it been since they decided not to ship Pourasol in a standard 5 gallon bucket?!? At first I thought that only the "EZ Flow" was being shipped in the new, 2.5 gallon containers... I am wrong because my next batch which is Medium/Soft standard Pourasol came in the same containers... Since I am not a Lureworks expert (as of yet), Do I have to worry about "hard-packing" as soon as it comes off the UPS truck?!? How the hell are you supposed to stir the stuff or scrape any "hard-pack" in the new containers?!? I was actually hoping it would come in a standard 5 gallon bucket so my paint mixer would have no problems... The opening in the tops of these new 2.5 containers are to small for my mixer attachment... Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!! I want to make sure that if I am going to continue to use LW plastic, I need to know the ropes with this stuff... Thanks again!!!

SHK... If you have ever been to my site before, you'll have to delete your temporary internet files, cookies, and cache... My browser was doing the same thing until I deleted all that stuff... I changed my "Nameservers" for my domain, so my old site should just disappear... Let me know if you continue to have problems... Thanks!!!

Hey everyone... This post is not for any purpose of driving traffic to my new site... I just got done with a project I started back on Sunday morning... Took me only about 3 1/2 days to polish up the site to my standards... Take a look and tell me what you think... Link to the site is in my signature below... Thanks!!!

Really? Nobody out there has a used electric meat grinder I can buy?!? Getting pretty sick of using the old hand crank... Building a popeye muscle in the right arm!!! LOL!!!

Thank you! I will be willing to bet that I could use no softener at all and get a much better consistency... That's my plan for tomorrow... Otherwise I do like the plastic... Probably try to shoot it at a cooler temperature to see how it affects the injection process... I will try to calm down now... Deep breaths, deep breaths... LOL!!!

SHK and Mr. Bilky, are either one of you experienced or dedicated Lureworks plastic users?!? I am wondering what the major differences are between the regular pourasol and the EZ Flow... Using my normal ratio of salt and softener, my baits came out much softer than normal... I do not mind the consistency, but I am afraid of losing to much durability... I thought by now that Carolina Mike might kick in some of his knowledge on Lureworks plastic... Now that I have 5 gallons of EZ Flow, I am hoping I did not flush my money down the drain... Maybe the regular soft pourasol is better suited for my needs, or I am completely over-reacting... I thought of trying a batch tomorrow without softener what-so-ever and seeing what the differences are in consistency... I am hoping that the baits will harden up a little bit... What do you think?!? Thanks!!!

According to Spike It's website, it is for hand-pouring and injecting baits with tails and small appendages... Today I was injecting craws and hogs, both with small appendages and tails... Maybe I should of just went with the standard pourasol?!? SHK, is 2 weeks a typo?!? LOL!!! You really have to wait that long for the baits to fully cure?!? 72 hours before bagging too?!? I usually bag after 24 hours, is 72 hours a standard for Lureworks plastic or bagging baits in general?!? I have tried every brand of plastic imaginable... Lureworks is the last brand I have tried, so far for me the positives totally out-weigh the negatives!!! Was my mistake buying the "EZ Flow"?!? Is this plastic not capable for general injection?!? Thanks!!!

Alright, so I poured my first batch of baits with the "EZ Flow" today... Actually, this is my first experience with Lureworks Plastic all together... Last night, I took the (2) 2.5 gallon containers of plastic, shook the hell outta them, and dumped them into a five gallon bucket... On the bottoms of the 2.5 gallon containers, I did not notice any, if VERY LITTLE residue after pouring into the 5 gallon bucket... I then took out the mixer and mixed the plastic VERY thoroughly... After mixing, I poured the "EZ Flow" into a 5 gallon container I had laying around from the last time I used M-F Plastic... This morning I woke up and got my plastic mixing in my presto pot as well as start the old coffee pot... I treated this plastic just like I have will all the other plastics I have used before... Same amount of softener, salt, etc.... The very first thing I noticed is that this plastic has the least amount of odor/smell out of all the plastics I have used so far (so thats a BIG plus!)... It also heats up nice and fast (also a BIG plus!)... As far as microbubbles, didn't seem to be a problem at all... As my plastic reached temperature, I injected my first sets of baits... This plastic drew up into my injector nice and smooth... It was very easy to draw from the pot, and very easy to inject into the molds... I waited for my baits to cool and then I demolded my first set... They seemed softer than any of my other previous baits I have ever demolded... Slightly tacky, but not to bad... Here is where my experience ends, and my questions begin... For all the people on the forum who would like to call themselves "Lureworks Plastisol" experts... Question #1: Do you have to re-mix, shake, stir, etc. the container of raw plastic each and every time you pour?!? I gave the container of plastic a couple quick rocks back and forth before drawing plastic from the container... I figured since I just mixed the hell out of it the night before, that's all it should need... Question #2: I used the same amount of softener with this plastic that I have used with every plastic I have tried before... It seems as though the baits were softer when demolded than previous baits... I would imagine that eventhough I might have needed to cut down on the softener, the 12 - 24 hour cure time will help to eliminate the slight tackiness and help to harden them a little?!? Any other tips will be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!!!

I have been advised by a few of the veterans on this site that almost all glitter bleeds at some point in time... I have made two different types of white frogs, one with black and green glitter and one with black and gold glitter... In each case, I was only able to make about 15 baits before I started to notice a major difference in color... The frogs with the green flake had a "greenish" hue and the frogs with the gold flake had a "golden" hue... I actually really liked the golden frogs so we started making them that way and are calling them "Golden Pearl"...

Anyone try it and have comments and experience with it?!? I just bought my first 5 gallons to try... Not worried about it, just looking for some input... Thanks!!!

For all those of you who were following my post... I FIXED MY PROBLEM!!! It was the injector the whole time... I went and bought a couple new o-rings and replaced the ones on the injector(s), still no luck... A little bit of ingenuity was all it took... I took the o-rings back off and placed about three full revolutions of teflon plumbers tape in the o-ring groove... I put the o-ring back in the groove over the top of the teflon tape... NO MORE AIR VOIDS IN MY BAITS!!! I have NOT had one bad bait since and I am loving every minute of it!!! Thanks for all your help!!!

I am curious to ask if gold glitter will bleed?!? I was trying to inject white frogs today with gold and black flake from LC and before you know it, my white colored plastic turned yellow(ish) in a hurry!!! Calhoun's Soft at about 330-340 degrees in a presto pot... I would have normally thought that it was just the plastic yellowing, but it wasn't very long after I put the plastic in the pot the it started to turn color... I am thinking it was the glitter, but I figured I would ask... Thanks!!!

One more thing I should add to the information stated above... Towards the middle and end of the existing batch, we added batches of remelt to the existing mix of plastic in the presto... Basically what we did is throw about 8oz. of new plastic in a pyrex with equal amounts of remelt and heated it to temperature and then added it to the already hot plastic in the presto... Could this method also have a negative affect on how the baits will inject?!?

Okay, so I finally started shooting baits with my new 3.5" Caney Creek Croaker molds with mixed success... I have been getting big air bubble "voids" in the tips of the frog's feet as well as smaller air pocket voids around the eye sockets... I have tried shooting slow or fast, hotter (345-350 degrees) or colder (330-335 degrees), etc. I know it must be air getting trapped within the mold... As I am drawing plastic into my injector, I keep the tip below the surface of the hot plastic at all times... I am just trying to figure out how air is getting into my plastic, and/or if I am doing something completely wrong... It is an awesome feeling to shoot five molds and get five great looking baits, and it is a very depressing feeling to shoot five molds and get only one good bait... Oh and one more question, how do you minimize overall scrap?!? It seems like I get A LOT more overall scrap with injection then I did with hand-pouring... I was wondering if there were any good tips out there on this subject as well... Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Thanks!!!

Ordered 5 gallons of soft plastic... Haven't tried it out yet... When I do, I'll fill you's in... Can't wait to give it a go!!!

Liquid still seems like the best option for me... I will have to start buying bigger amounts as demand increases!!!

Where can you purchase "paste" coloring?!? I have not seen it in any of the places I buy my stuff from...

Thank you for all the AWESOME information Bill!!! I would happen to agree that a unique and/or custom bait will help to get my company heading in the right direction... Everytime I run into some cash, I re-invest it into my business... Started out with sticks, working my way into craws, hogs, and frogs... Soon on my list are beavers, craw trailers, jerk baits, and swim baits... CAN'T WAIT!!! Thanks again!!!

Hahaha... Actually I used the wrong "term" up above... Let me switch the subject again one more time... I am being told that the actual bait I am looking to get close to, used to be made by Berkley called the Berkley "Beast"... Anyone make a mold that is close to the "BEAST"?!?

So what is the most popular size Kodiak to start with 3.5" or the 4.25"?!? Is the original Kodiak better than the new Kodiak?!? I see there are physical differences between the two... Not to mention the new version is cheaper...

My plan for the presto pot blending block is to cater to anyone who relys on hand-pouring for a majority of their bait making. I have always had a plan in place to get myself and injector down the road. I ended up buying a twinjector from Frank. Haven't had time to test drive it yet. If I had the extra money I would buy all those Kodiak molds from the dude selling them on Bear's forum. If they are still available when I run into some cash, I am going to swipe them up.