saltshaker

Ben, $10 is about a normal number for a Pre-Rapala "off" color. I've bought several on feEbay with my limit set at $10.50. Some of them are new...just not "good" colors. But, what do I care? I'm gonna strip 'em, anyway. I've repainted and sold several of the ones I bought but not for any astronomical amount of money. I can't seem to master those cartoonish craw patterns that really bang. I do know that a clear lip will cost ya more money. I bought a lot of 6 from this one seller and only 2 of the lures were stamped "Wiggle Wart" on the underside of the lip. I contacted him and we squared up. If it reads "Storm" (or nothing at all)....it ain't the real deal...unless, of course, the letterin' has worn off. The sound difference will not wear off, however. Like so many other things...I just had to try 'em to see what the fuss was all about. I'm good now.

I've seen the original in sealed packages go for $100+ many times. Personally, I just don't get it.

Last I looked Dudley was out of almost everything.

When I started painting those Little John blanks, I foiled them and coated with Etex. They would sink ever so slightly.....like an inch per second. I started dipping them in urethane to stop the sinking. I wanted them to float. Since then the only complaints I've had from people who bought them was that they didn't sink anymore. I went back to the Etex. Like someone noted...there is a fine line between sinking/suspending.

I always heard that mixin with that round handle creates less bubbles than with a flat popsicle stick, etc. Dunno.

I never thin paint, either. I do use that Createx stuff that makes the paint more transparent, but, it doesn't thin. Just turn the pressure down (or up) and roll with it.

Sunkist, I'll volunteer as the guinea pig on the Big Pappa blanks.

I've bought tons of stuff from Dudley at www.unpaintedlures.com and you will not find a better supplier. Warp speed shipping, professional service and always quality stuff. I don't buy hooks anywhere else because his price and quality are hard to beat. About the Little Johns......I've sold tons of Dudley's blanks and find that my buyers prefer the slow sinking/suspending more than floaters. When I say slow sinking.......it is s-l-o-w. Stan

If you find 'em...please holler at us.

"Thus.....the innovation." innovation - the act or process of introducing new ideas, devices or methods "German Engineering" It was a freakin' compliment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For some reason, Ben doesn't want it to get out, but, he's of German descent. Thus, the innovation. I've talked to him on the phone and, gotta admit...he sure don't sound German.

Do you guys know if all Bagley DB-3's are constructed of balsa? BobP sent me a hamd=made wooden lure that he made and I am suddenly fascinated with wooden cranks. Looking to buy some used DB-3's to strip, foil and repaint, but, I don't want 'em if they're not wooden. Thanks

There are situations in which there is just no option other than epoxy. Foiling, photo-finishing and such can best be done with epoxy to hide the edges. Never tried GST, but, Dick Nite doesn't do too well. Plus, it jacks with your adhesive where epoxy doesn't. Etex ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob, which wood do you use for your cranks?

Unless you're like bass100 and don't have a choice because of where you live....I'd let it dry/cure naturally. That way you know you're getting the intended results. There are times that I have to use a space heater just until my epoxy tacks off so I can stop the rotation......and I live in s. Louisiana. This Cajun air has been coooold this winter.

Paintin over Elmer's glue will make it bust up like crazy.

BobP is the resident "glow expert" on TU, but, I do know he prefers a different brand. Bob????

It is no BS...vinegar does etch metal surfaces. We had copper gutters installed about a dozen years ago. My wife loved the color of the new copper, but, once the patina process set in...she hated it. So, I ended up painting that expensive guttering. Wiped it down with vinegar, primed and painted and it looks the same now as it did 4 years ago. Btw, apple cider vinegar is good for what ails ya. I do not believe that adhesion of the paint to the surface has anything to do with the problem described by the OP. IMO, the possibilities have already been suggested.... a) the paint is not completely dry the top coat is being applied too heavily I see the problem as one of the two....or, both. Good luck.

I bought 150 various blanks from the above-mentioned website and roughly 60% had issues that I could not deal with. Never again!! My advice is to stick to Jim (Predator), Dudley (unpaintedlures) and the other reputable ones.

You can sure tell the difference in the blanks that come from Japan. Some of the best-made fishing lures in the world.

I use 'em both...on plastic. I use the epoxy to lock in the foil and the urethane as a top coat.

Createx has some stuff that makes opaque paint transparent. I use it sometimes but don't know the name. It does it without thinning the paint, too.