crzyjunyer

i actually got in touch with the guy behind georgia blade and was informed that the owner of zoom lures does in fact own the machine to make those blades. He tried to purchase the machine but the price was too high. I have an email into zoom now, but have not heard anything on it currently. I have heard zoom is often a pain to deal with if they feel a patent or design is infringed, so im not sure about making any right now.

Mark how do i post pics? I have them on my phone. They are also posted on a similar post of bass recource. Smallljaw thank you for the lead. Im chasing it down now. As far as making them my best freind has offered me machine time on his waterjet or stamping machines if i paid for a die. Problem we are running into is worrying about patent/copyright infringement. Im hoping first to find origional maker and see if they either still make them or have a backstock. After that i will look more into having some made.

Im still looking for these blades. Any info on some would be wonderful and greatly apprciated. I have some pics but im not sure how to load them on here.

Would yall reccomend buying a wrapper over building one? Im decent at woodwork and have some oak 1x's and felt here. I was looking at making one with 2 uprights on a base and 2 more supports for support.

i am doing my research and reading all i can right now on getting ready to build rods. I plan to get a small kit to begin with as well as a turner. I think i can make a threader based on some homemade ones i have seen "how to's" on. I have painted cranks on and off for a few years now and know there was several curves (paint thinning, nozzzle control, etc.) that just took practice doing to learn the art of. I plan to start off with some cheaper lightweight spining kits and then some crankbait rods. I have read enough already that nobody reccomends trying to learn on a $180 scV blank for jigs or anything. I am looking more at the $20-30 blanks. So for you experienced rod builders what are the harder things to master or at least get the hang of for a beginning rod builder?

im using auto air paints and i thin mine to "taste", and it varies with every color and type paint. I mix my paint first in a communion cup (unless its one i know doesn't need thinning) and try to get it to move "like milk" in the cup. Some paints like pearls and metallics need alot of thinning where others need little to none quite often. One thing i also keep handy is transparent base. I use it to "un-thin" or also to tone down a color to get it to spray even more transparently to get the look i want to achieve. I normally spray at 20-ish psi working pressure (guage reading with trigger depressed).

I used to use the "shopline" clear from ppg. I always loved how it made my baits look - the finish just seemed to have that pop, shine, and sparkle using auto clear. The problem i had with auto clear and why i quit using it (aside from known health hazards involving it), was that i use my cranks on rocks, concrete columns, and other rip rap. It quite simply would not hold up to the abuse of a few errant casts or hangups on rocks. I joined the "solarez revolution" and have been happy with it taking the abuse as well as a factory lure or often better depending on the company.

im looking for some advice on crank colors for fishing around the orlando area. One of my fraternity brothers moved there and wants me to paint up some lures for him but neither of us is sure on colors for the dark nearly black water of the small lakes and rivers he fishes in the orlando area. I paint ones normally for the red muddy coosa rivers i normally fish here in east central alabama.

i tried some of the wicked glow additive when i was first starting out and trying different things. Idunno if i got a bad bottle of it or what but it nver had any "glow" to it all. I left the bottle itself outside and under a black light and nothing, no glow at all, on a painted bait or even the bottle itself.

i dont know that i would try it myself - coming from working on a/c equipment all day i can "make things work" but its always so much easier and better with the correct parts. With something with small and delicate precision parts like the non-neo iwatas are its worth it to me to spend and hour online to find the correct parts unless its an absolute emergency

my ritual is very similar to rayburn's but my first step is to take a paper towel over my finger and wipe the bowl out to get rid of most of the paint left with it. My first back flush is then with some of what ever thinner im using for the paint and then water. i found if i put my water in an old twist top honey mustard bottle (it was clear so i can see water level) i can add just a touch of water with out making a mess. After a paint session i break my gun down and then put my nozzle in a shot glass and then pour in some acetone to soak it and also dip into to clean my airbrush with. i have an old needle i use to help clean inside the nozzle with. I later added a piece of tape to the old needle to keep it separate (learned by mistake). You do have to watch using acetone around any non teflon o-rings though. It will stretch them out and cause them to malfunction (oops), but if you can catch it early and set them out to air dry out for a few days they are usually ok. My eclipse's (hp-cs and hp-bcs) both still have rubber o-rings on the nozzle cap and packing head for trigger. The latter one was a pain to find and figure out when it happened. One minute gun would work and then it wouldnt even get air.

im just curious as to why you would want/need to use them with genuine parts available?

ben i actually just use some cheaper kids brushes from walmart myself to brush on with and had good results after brushing it on semi thick and then letting it sit for 30-40 min and rotating a time or two to keep it evened out before setting outside to cure. overall i have been super pleased with solarez and it seems to hold up as well as a "factory" lures topcoat on rocks and concrete structures i have beat lures against while fishing over the last few months.

ive also quit using auto clear as well due t the health hazards of spraying it with out a proper booth for it and also since ive been so super pleased with solarez

annealed steel is regular carbon steel that has gone thought a heat treating process to make it easier to work with. Since it isnt a stainless it will rust out on you.

one question i have for those of you who are getting the haze - how long are you letting the lure sit after dipping/brushing before you set it in the lights? I havent noticed any hazing problems but i brush mine on and let it sit about 20-30 minutes to even/settle out the brush strokes, and then i just set them outside to cure in the sun, no on/off times, just 5 min in the sun and flip lure over to get the other side. Im wondering if its caused by trying to cure the lure to cure too quickly after applying. The reason im thinking that is since it seems alot of you are setting it under the lights after just a few minutes to drip off the excess. Could it be that simple of a solution perhaps?

bob im not opposed to florocarbon at all , im just looking for perhaps a better line for my preferences, so i am seeking opinions on it and to try and narrow down my trials and errors. Have you used the seguar abrasx? Im just curious as to how well it holds up to abrasion in reality as well as sensitivity. At $20 a spool its not something i can just trash if its not what they claim on my budget. ben i normally fish on the coosa and its pretty muddy/stained but they are heavily pressured too so id like to try the advantage the clear floro offers. In 2 weeks ill be in Eufaula fishing with my dad and a group of other guys for a week and its more clear, but not "gin clear" like alot of lakes. I do fish in a buddy's pasture pond (prob the most now due to gas prices and better fishing usually) and its usually pretty clear unless my dog or the cows get in it that is.

i am looking for some opinions and reccomendations on fishing lines. I am sponsored by myself and never tourney fish so i cant afford the new super nice florocarbon lines that go for $20/100yd, but i am interested in trying other less spendy brands. Currently i have been using suffix mono exclusively up to about a year ago, and still love it overall. It is affordable to my budget, and has great knot strength and holds up pretty well to abrasion from rip rap, which is one of my fave things to fish. I still use it on my cranks and wirebaits, mostly in 10#. Last year I tried some spiderwire braid in 20lb to take full advantage of the extra sensitivity it offers on my new high dollar worm rod. I liked that i could tell if a penny on bottom was heads up or down, but not that it seemed to nick and cut so easy when fishing near rip rap and "trash piles" and such. It seemed to cut waaay too easy afterwards and i lost alot of lures/fish due to it. I then tried some vicious florocarbon line (and used kvd line conditioner as reccomended by others using floro) and it seemed ok but was very stiff and had a lot of memory to me. I recently picked up some yo-zuri hybrid line and am going to try it this coming weekend i hope, weather permitting, to see how it does on my worm rod. I am looking for just general opinions on your preffered lines for diffrent techniques, as well as ideas on things to try such as floro leaders or other ideas im not aware of. thanks

ive done several black back lures i brushed solarez on with and then just set out in the sun to cure and i havent had any trouble with hazing or cloudyness. I brush on with a cheapo kids craft brush and use thin coats. I usually go over it twice with the brush to get it even and total coverage before setting it out to cure in sunlight.

have you checked out the smaller sets at coast airbrush? you can also check with them on the big set since they will match and beat any competitors price, even on sets they dont stock

im with aaron. I mix completely by eye and "feel". I do agree it would be easier if you could do it with precise measurements but as he said its pointless to try since the paints all have diffrent viscosities and spray diffrently due to that. Another thing is the diffrence in airbrushes (brand, nozzle size, etc..) as well as air pressure will affect paint flow. Some paints i dont thin and spray fine at a lower pressure where as others require lots of thinning and more air pressure to flow like i want. Best you could do probably is to make a detailed chart for each color and type paint you use. It would be very time consuming do make but it may save time later. I still prefer to do it by eye and "feel"

i cant speak on the laquer but i have been using auto clear over water based paints such as createx and auto air until recently when i joined the "solarez revolution". I had no problems with adhesion for the most part, but i like the solarez much better now after using both.

with it that cold the paint may now keep well anyway so painting out there is out. I would still look at trying to use the compressors you hve available already though. Depending on the distance from the house you can run either some extra hoses or even SCH40 PVC pipe and then a hose. Either one can probably be done cheaper than a new small compressor. Im not saying dont get a new compressor, but id try to use what i already have available and paid for first as maybe a cheaper alternative.

just clean out a small corner of the bldg to work in and keep that area clean then. You can run a hose from the large compressor to where you want to work at and then just add a 2nd dryer and regulator there at the work station. That way you have plenty of good, dry air and can make adjustments to the air pressure quickly at arms reach. I think most all of us seem to end up finding a small area to keep set up just for painting.

from what i understand the "neo" line of airbrushes are chinese made and basicly disposble since there is not much available for parts. My reccomedation if you can afford it upgrade to a eclipse line or similar. Id check also at coastairbrush.com too for the airbrush. I dont know if they have any currently but they sell the eclipse CS's they use once in their classes and then fully clean and repair/rebuild to like new for a really good price, but it is a limited supply. If you go to hobby lobby, be sure to have (or pull up if you have a smartphone) the 40% off coupon. As far as compressors you would also be better served with a small pancake or other small general purpose compressor for construction and such. They offer much more versitily for the future with more air volume and pressure available, as well as other uses around the house, like flat tires and i use mine to blow the dust out of the dry filter on my shopvac to keep it in service longer. Just my $.02, but i always try to get the best i can afford with in reason if its something i plan to use alot or for a long time. I thnk most on here who have used the eclipse brushes will agree that its hard to outgrow them, no matter your skill set.