crzyjunyer

i havent had any trouble last few days - been back up to speed and today at work i didnt get the "url4short" redirect either your work isnt going unnoticed and unappreciated !!

smith wildlife paints has a flip flop blue-white that will do that some. Its a lighter blue color. you can buy it in 1oz bottles and its not too bad that way if its not what youwere looking for.

im just using a pack of cheapo ($4/30) brushes from walmart. i have been just dipping it in acetone after im done and have used the same brush a few times now with no problem.

i used some today on some black backed lures and have not noticed any problems or coudyness. i have learned with it that thin layers are best. i brush mine and like to feel a lil "pull" on the brush but not too much. It seems to work best to me, not too thick and runs but thick enough to cover well and protect.

i sell some KO's to coworkers some off the record but not many. Id like to be able to sell more and hopefully can after i get better at making wood bodied ones. I have also done several repaints as well.

i may give them a try. I love teh gamu and kvd's but not the prices.

no just the 11pk on the kvd's. I have yet to find anywhere that has the kvd in bulk. I can find ones that are close all day but not the actual kvd's.

ive looked there but i can get the ones i want at my local acadamy sports for the same price and no shipping time.

im using the same one as mark linked to. I really am pleased overall so far with it. Especially the working time over devcon and even the auto clear i was using.

i get the url thing everyday from a work computer when i use google to search to get to tu. Usually it goes to the url thing once and then i back out to google and try again it works fine but slow still.

thanks for the tip mark, i am definitly going to keep using the solarez myself too. One thing else i came across just now this morning while putting the hooks on was one a few of them the drips got into the hook eyes and set up in them. This stuff is derfinitly harder than the auto clear i was using. Normally with it i could just use the split point on my split ring pliers and give it a twist and the eye was clear. Today it took a lil more force and a few times it chipped back more than just the eye as well and got into the body some around the eye, exposing my paint some. I had two i needed to retouch up after closer inspection so i just added them to the ones to be retouched up with solarez. Over all still happy with it though and cant wait to fish with it some and see how it holds up on rock sea walls and other rip rap - which is my favorite spring fishing.

mine arrived about a week ago and i finally got a chance to use it this morning. I had no trouble brushing it on and i liked the much much longer working time over devcon. I normally use auto clear but this was alot cheaper and easier to apply and clean up than auto clear. No mixing, spraying, flashing, and repeat for multiple coats and then complete breakdown and cleaning up on the airgun. With the soarez i simply opened the bottle, used a cheapo disposable brush and set outside to cure. It cured in a few minutes still and its an overcast and mild temp day (50's) here. The only problem i noticed was a lil bit of buildup on the bottom of the lures after curing form me possibly brushing it a bit to thick on some. After curing i got out some previously painted and cured lures with similar or the same paint colors and the solarez shows up the pearls and things just as well as the auto clear did and was basicly almost as glossy to me, and had a smooth finish as well. I think next time i will be setting my cure board on a mirror so it can reach all sides at once instead of me trying to flip it over, and dropping a lure off like i did today. I am very impressed and happy with it so far. If it holds up well this season to actual fishing use it will definitly be my new top coat.

for the most part i paint at 18-22 for most everything but some thicker ones i run up to 30 psi just for extra oomph to push them though. i have a diffrent setup too though. i use a 6 gal pancake compressor and run it at 60 psi at that regulator and though my air hose for it. At the end of it i have a 2nd regulator, dryer and an air guage there before it goes into my airbrush hose, and make my air adjustements there.

it does sound like you need to thin them down more to me as well. i spray most everything through my eclipse CS (.35) with no problem at 18-25 psi with no problem usually. The only one i use diffrently is my auto air hot rod sparkle. With it i use my .5 needle out of my BCS in my CS and thin a lil more and kick it up to about 30 psi and it seems to do pretty well.

i use a small brush (like for model cars) to wipe mine after a use a wire brush made to clean airbrushes with, as well as a thin rag or a paper shop towel. How long has it been since you replaced the needle and/or nozzle on the old one? They are considered "wear" items, and may just be worn out possibly if you feel they got cleaned well. The new one sounds like it still has some paint chunks in the tip causing blowback or the needle isnt fully set in the nozzle and/or isnt seating properly in it due to possibly wear or paint residue in them. It could also be the acetone itself causing the problem. If the seals in your airbrush are not rated for solvents, the acetone may can eat them away and cause problems with the airflow. I use a light amount of acetone on mine sometimes when cleaning and after breaking them down, but if they need to soak i use airbrush restorer from auto air instead.

Bob it was my girls idea to sell them. I just smiled and said yes dear to avoid consequences and concussions. She handles sales and collects the money and we use it for going on dates mostly. I actually dont carry one myself, since i have a ring of over 20 keys for work plus my personal keyring on a carabiner. these are the only ones i have pics of right now. The last one is my key to my work van, and i took it this morn. The others are more like what i do, more simple patterns and such, sometimes with a letter freehanded on (i did a "k" on my gf's lure), and i did one with a silver body and a mettalic blue star for a girl who is a diehard cowboys fan.

i have been using 2 part auto clears for about a year now and have been pretty happy with it overall, but it does have its disavatanges too. I have learned that its better to do more layers of it (i do 7 now from 3 orig) to keep it from chipping as bad on rocks. You need a organinc vapor respirator to spray and a place to, as well as warm tempuratures to get it to flash off and cure. I just ordered some solarez myself last week to try it after so many positive reveiws of it on here. I decided to try it since i do alot of paint during the winter months and am tired of trying to find a warm day to clear coat.

thats what we call normal conditions here on the coosa rivers (weiss, neely henry, logan martin). I use alot of red and orange with dark green or blue backs as well as white bodies with purple backs work well. my go to store bought lure is usually a normans middle N in the spring crawdad pattern. It has a crawdad color body (orange base with black cradad features) and a green flake back on it. I have painted similar lures with a dark grey scale pattern on the sides and then trans orange over it with a pearl green back and its been a good one as well. To me though there is no true "magic lure color" in any water conditions, even though some willl do better than others at times. It really comes down more to having confidence in the lure and using it with the confidence. Then you tend to throw it more, in more places, and increase your strikes that way.

i dont know if anyone else does this, but i have found a good use for lures that are damaged or other imperfections in the body that keep them from working properly as lures in making keychains out of them. I purchased some knock offs a while back that didnt want to swim properly and had trouble setting the lips in properly, and so i just had them sitting around in my work area. My girlfreind was sitting in with me one day talking while i worked (and halfway listened to her ramble on) when she spottted the lures and asked about them and suggested i make her a keychain out of them for her. Since then i have made quite a few of them for her freinds and other folks. Its an easy and quick profit when you can find some blanks super cheap like "practice paint" ones at $0.25 each and sell them for $4-5 each with a simple 2-3 color scheme and minimal details but "custom colors" they choose to have a "personalized" custom keychain. I just thought i would mention this as a possible alternative to throwing away lures that you cant sell/use as lures to try and at least get something useful/profitable out of them.

i have the redirect too esp on computers at work when i click the TU site under google search. Both computers i have had this happen to me on are running linux operating systems i think, but im not exactly a guru with computers. I have never had a problem on my home computer, but i also have a shortcut link to the homepage i always use on my personal computer.

no problem - glad to help

i have the same brush and some pearls it does ok on and others it seems to struggle, esp the heavier flakes like auto air hot rod sparkles. Thinning a lil more than normal seems to help some with most pearls, like the standard auto air pearls, but not quite enough usually on the really thick/heavy ones. Cheapest solution to me would be to get a .5 needle and nozzle (like that fit the siphon feed eclipse) and it will fit in with no problem i have found. I have the hp-cs and hp-bcs and the needle/nozzle will swap between the 2 with no problem i have encountered. I do this some when i want to spray some havier paints but in smaller amounts. Its easier to clean an exra needle/nozzle than to clean 2 full brushes if i am only spraying small amounts, which is pretty normal for cranks.

To me it sounds like more of a problem with the air supply more than the brushes if you purhcased a new one and had the same problem immidetly with it. I would check the air pressure to make sure it is fairly steady and consistant as well as making sure its a dry air. Have you put a guage on the hoses close to the airbrush hose connection or do you only have the default one on the compressor? If the line is a longer hose and the compressor gets warm it may not condense the water in the line until it is past the dryer at the compressor and has had a chance to cool more. I would possibly try the new in line seperator you just purcased at the end of a standrard air hose in between the connection to the airbrush hose. Tthis way the air has had a chance to cool from the natural heating that occours from compressing it and can catch the condensation further down the lines. If also possible try a guage there as well after the dryer. then you can see exactly what the pressure is at the airbrush when it is spraying as well as when it is idle. There will be a few pounds drop in air pressure from the idle pressue to when you are actually consuming it.

have you tried or considered something like the back end of a drill bit for this? i use them some for painting eyes.

another option you may want to consider is using an inert gas like nitrogen or co2. they are by far the quetest option bar none but do come with other drawbacks like needing to be refilled, as well as tank and regulator initial cost as well.