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crzyjunyer

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Everything posted by crzyjunyer

  1. blue/white with hotrod sparkle base and topcoat - super shine in sunlight
  2. auto air copper pearl on jet black base
  3. blue/white with hotrod sparkle white base
  4. looks to me like a white belly with a faint olive green with some rootbeer over it
  5. my favorite blade has always been an ultra-vibe arrowhead blade - its a modified willow blade but the only place i have found to be able to get them is on certain war eagle spinnerbaits - i have yet to find a supplier to buy them individually or in bulk
  6. what is the mil thickness on the brite-bak tape? from what ive seen online when i looked at it all i saw was 2mil thick which is the same as the a/c tape i use (nashua 322)
  7. ive only done a few lures but what has worked for me is to start in the midddle of the side and slowly work my way to the top and bottom using just my thumbs to press it down but before i start over the curved portions i take my sissors (i use my lil pocket swiss army knife) adn cut vertical releif cuts to hep get the wrinkles out
  8. salt what ive been doing so far is just keep slowly working the edges with my thumbs (my burnishing tool) and lightly stretching and thinning it down as much as possible to minimize my edges and i try not to cover up the top and bottom of them either, only the sides. so far it seems to be turning out ok but i havent clear coated any yet either
  9. i tried it tonite and it seemed to work pretty well with out clearing first - actually it was kind of nice sinc i could use a q-tip to clean up if i had over spray - i definitly love the way transparent colors look over the foil - has an incredible shine to it much better than the auto air 4100 fine aluminum base i got in today and tried out as well - it has a nice color to it as well but nowhere near the shine of the foil
  10. i have recently foiled over some crankbaits using a/c tape (i work on a/c equip and have tons of it) and was looking through the databases here and it seems everyone clears over the foil before painting. i have moved away from using d2t to an automotive clear and was wondering how that has worked for others on foiled lures before paint as well as if anyone has tried a rattle can automotive clear or auto air transparent base as a midcoat/base for the paint to stick to the foil. im planning to use a mixture of auto air, createx, and wicked paints (seperate layers - not mixed together) for the looks im going for. im wanting to keep the midcoat over the foil as thin as possible to keep from clouding/dulling the shine
  11. i go to christian supply stores and buy the small communion cups for mixing paint as well as epoxy in - clear cups to see the paint through as well as small amounts that work great in my eclipse CR's cup - cheap too $5/100 or $20/1000
  12. Ive tried to search on here and have google for 2 days with out much luck on fiding these in bulk quanity (25+) so i was hoping maybe someone on here has found some or has a tax id# to order from a supplier like shorty's and is willing/able to sell that way. Ive been using the standard triple grips and like them well but some of the guys ive been making lures for swap them out for the kvd's and so im considering offering it as an optionand or sales tool (and extra cost) on lures as well as for my own use. I thnk the best price i saw was on 11pk at janns so far that i could order from as a regular joe.
  13. rookie i tried to PM you but it said you cant have any more new msessages ? i was wondering if you still had some of those bodies and a desire to part with them
  14. ive been using wax paper and an exacto knife for mine
  15. what i did for my set up was keep one small moisture trap at the compressor before the quick connect and then ran my standard airline hose to the room where i paint and then i have a rig with a male quick connect going to 1/4 pipe - then i have my 2nd regulator (one on compressor set at 45 psi this one dials it down to spray pressure) then it goes into another filter/moisture trap, then pressure guage and finally to my airbrush hose
  16. I looked at it as well when i decided to spray automotive cclear but i ended up going wih a tradtional 2 part urathane clear instead. I just felt i would have more confidence in something i know holds up well and is durable in a tried and proven 2 part especialy since the cost on it wasnt too much more.
  17. I havent had much luck searching for this but does anyone know where i can find some wood blank lures ready to simply be painted and add hooks like the plastic blank lures come you can order? Im looking to do some but dont have the tools/resources to make them right now.
  18. ive used the devcon 2 ton as well (ace carries it or can order it) but have since switched to spraying a 2 part automotive urathane clear and like it a lot better so far - idk if its as tough on scratches and all when beating on rocks, bridges, and other things but i like how glossy it is as well as how its thinner too and no need for a turner or anyhting - im spraying it out of an iwata eclipse siphone feed brush with a .5 tip with no trouble - just be extra sure to clean it up well
  19. i just tried my first attept at spraying automotive clear today myself - i used ppg's shope line high gloss 2 part urathane i picked up at the local auto paint supplier ($40 for a quart of clear and 1/2 pint of hardener) - i sprayed it with an iwata eclipse HP-BCS (found out the "big mouth" bottles are solvent proof according to iwata's page) at 25 psi outside with a respirator borrowed from work - i am super pleased with the results so far - stunningly clear and nice sheen to it (3 coats) and i love how much thinner it is over the d2t as well as no need for a turner (i used d2t to glue clothespins to a scrap 2x4 for a dry rack) i did learn a few things - gloves are a must from now on since i hold the lure in my left hand and spray with the right and that cleanup wasnt too bad overall - a lil more than normal from just createx but not much - i also left teh airbrush apart for about an hour to let the acetone fuly disspate before reassemly - i do think this is going to be teh way i go from now on for my top coats
  20. i started doing it for a few reasons 1. just to see if i can - its a challenge 2. i have a lot of free time in the evenings and my budget doesnt allow me to get out and do much - including fishing 3. to eventually help with the budget problems - i dont want to get rich doing it (be nice thouhg) - i just want to make enough to pay for the hobby and for "research and development" on the lake 4. is simply to be able to have or make the exact color combo i want and custom tune it for my lakes i fish - weiss, neely henry, guntersville, and eufaula - diffrent colors and combos for the diffrent lakes and seasons and water characteristics 5. i simply enjoy it now - a lil bit of time spent alone and in my own world to forget about the rest of the world and work and everything else going on - i can get in my makeshift studio (spare bedroom) and turn on the ipod and slip away for a while
  21. yea i looked into the hydro dipping but its going to be too expensive to do the number of guns he wants to do though
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