Matador Customs
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Everything posted by Matador Customs
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How Do I Make My (masters) Clay Piece Shiney-for Mold Makeing?
Matador Customs replied to CATSPURRFECT's topic in Hard Baits
Ive made plaster of paris molds and after i heat them in the oven to get the moisture out i use thinned out d2t works good for pouring plastic. -
Superb!! -
Tried locktite putty thanks to this thread and will be using it from now on. Hardens in about ten minutes and its easy to sand what else can you Ask for.
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Hey mark, i tried calling several lowes and home depot with no luck, i guess the I.E. is not a good place to find this stuff. Finally ordered it online and will get it soon, cant wait to try it out. Thanks for recommending it.
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Being a machinist and working with cnc lathes and mills ive used several methods already to make my swimbaits, and thought of a way to mill These grooves on a drill press with a milling vise and some kind of angled endmill or carbide cutter just have to put my ideas to practice.
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Nice skirt design. Looks like the hats the royal jesters wear. -
Really cool, whats it made out of, wood? -
Im trying to figure out a faster more accurate way to make the v groove on my swimbaits sections. Im using the very edge of the round sanding disc from my belt sander to make these grooves and a little filing to get the job done. Kinda of a pain but it does work just not very consistent. How do you guys do it ?
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![C032600 [800x600]](https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/gallery/album_8/sml_gallery_27576_8_50461.jpg)
How much!! I want one! -
I havent tried pvc yet, its a pain to find locally. How about plain old pine, is it durable? Im only asking because i made a prototype 4 piece swimbait out of pine and its just awsome, swims perfect. I wanna make alot, for myself friends and family members but before i start i want to make sure i pick the right wood. As of now im ruling out alder as it is really soft and gets dented easilly. So now im thinking pine or poplar.
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Has anyone used this wood for jointed swimbaits With good results. I have leftovers from a old project and was wondering if it would make a good swimbait. I like how light it is but seems soft and unsure if it would hold the eye screws well.
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Yea i seal them with a slightly thinned coat of etex, making sure it gets soaked in the pores. As for auto clear i might have to go that route. Im planning to sell a few and dont want any unhappy customers. Any suggestions on which brand or type of auto clear.
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So how long before your swimbaits show any wear around the hard edges if any? Also what type of auto clear do you use.
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I dont know if jeremy would be willing to divulge any info on his methods, but its worth a try to ask. Thanks for the contact.
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Ive been succesful at making some segmented swimbaits and everything has worked out well Except the finishing touch, the top coat. Im using Etex and found that 3 out of 5 lures theres peeling Where the joints touch and only after using them once. Im pleased with the results overall but was wondering what is used on the lunker punkers. I recently bought the wooden version and its top coat is something i would like to use. Seems very Durable, smooth and has a professional look to it. Does anyone know what it is?
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Cant wait for those 110's. Hope you get them soon predator.
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I have a harbor frieght dual airbrush and works great. The main thing is practice and patience. Ive learned to make very fine lines and im impressed with this airbrush compared to a gravity feed brush i bought from ebay. Ive learned its not easy many factors involved. Paint viscocity and air pressure are two main things i struggled with in the beginning.
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I work in a cnc shop and we use Something called Dykem in red or blue comes in brush on ink or marker pens. An engraver is the most ideal
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I found a box of various sized cotter pins in my garage and thinking how i could imcorporate them in to my wooden swimbaits. I was thinking Of using them as part of a pin hinge or for hook hangers. Does anyone here use them, if so how do you secure them.
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Glen, the spray i buy is rustoleum brand enamel based automotive clear coat. Although like these guys pointed out it might no have been your epoxie but just a hiccup in you process. Never the less give that spray a shot, for 6 bucks a can it wont hurt and you might even like it. If your primer is the culprit ive had good results using Kilz original primer also a spray. Good luck.
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Stuff definenitly happen. I was wondering if you have ever used automotive clear cloat that stuff dries in a few hours, at least the one i have used, leaves a great finish and has never peeled the next day after ive fished them. I sometimes paint ko's and repaint old lures And found that spraying auto clear on these lures works and looks better than using etex or d2t. I still use etex but on my bigger wooden swimbaits. I buy this stuff at walmart its a 16oz Spray and relatively cheap for the amount of lures it can coat, about a dozen with three or four coats each.
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Ive never fished a sluggo before and had some general questions. I have the 7.5 in Alewife color and the 9 inch in rainbow. What size hooks do i need and can i use 1 size for both the 7.5 and 9 inch. My other question is how do you fish them. Im fishing lakes from the shore in clear water and im targeting stripers. Any tips are aprecciated
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Thanks guys. This is the reassurance i needed. Im still trying to figure out other things so i can put this certain dilema to rest and continue with this madness . Thanks again.
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I recently started making some swimbaits With good results. The thing that i question alot Is how good are eye screws for hook hanger and line ties. Ive been using .072 1 inch ss For both the hooks and line ties. Im making segmented swimbaits from poplar similar to the ms slammer and triple trout they weigh from 2 to 4 ounces.. So i guess my question is will they hold up to a striper fight and will the line ties hold from the costant pressure of casting. Any input would really help.
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Nice design. Is it a Topwater?
