markinorf

Love the lacquer! Get one of those cheap portable booths. One of these comes with a slim exhaust attachment that fits nicely into a window. No fuss. Spraying a bunch of clearcoat is where you run into problems. Simply because more of it is being used and there is much more overspray. This I wont do indoors. I got away from spraying clearcoat. Too many safer and better alternatives. Cheaper too.

Ive made hollow 2 part lures from resin, and had the same problem. Zap a Gap medium CA+ was the only "glue" that would work. Something about the oil based resins. I even had trouble with Devcon on the exterior if I didnt post cure the lure halves, sand and clean with solvents. Hope that helps.

Yep, Just going to the Azek website will provide you the local distibutor. I went there (local yard), and was able to get enough free scrap trimboard (1 by 4) to make a bunch of baits. After this, I bought some off brand trimboard from the home centers, and realised how good the Azek was, as far as quality. Wont buy the cheap stuff again since its a pain to finish. I see no diff in strength or overall density. The voids and defects kill your fun.

I heard some guys talk about it, and like it fine. Especially that its free! The tiny voids and defects are what makes PVC a pain to paint; sometimes. Kinda like working with foam. Saunders Supply in suffolk sells Azek. If you see this stuff, you will want some, The homecenter stuff is not as good.

Sorry, low viscousity. I use any thin super fast stuff. Watch out for fumes. Nitrile gloves, or a Ziplock bag over your hands.Plastic cutting board to work over, and to place the plug while it cures. Cures rock hard, and sands to a preemo base for painting. Its not a cheap sealer, but is my fav. fast-fast-fast. I leave the dust from the last sanding on the surface. Just wipe on the glue, and make sure youre up wind of the fumes (outside). It will hurt you to breathe this.

I too am a HUGE fan of Azek PVC. This brand is a "cut" above for consistent density and lack of striations in the castings. Doesnt like heat when sanded!! I rigged up a potentiometer to my uber-cheap belt sander to slow it down, and it works great for adjusting the surface speed of the belt. This makes a huge difference in how well the material is removed. You wouldnt believe it until you tried it. A simple lite dimmer switch will work. I also switch out between a 80grit (roughing) to a 120-240 (fin), and get killer finishes. The last bit is done by hand and the sealing is done w/ low visc super glue. This seems to really close many of the open cells remaining and lowers the number of times that you will have to sand and re-prime. I only had to reduce the belt speed by a little. I know it mite cause the motor to cook, but so far -no problems.

I was thinking the same thing about balsa. Did the cure times seem long?? Im a fan of PVC, and the only wood I use now (balsa) is for topwater. Minwax Wood hardner is a champ for most woods. I use the lowest viscousity super glue I can get for balsa. Pricey and super fast. The J-Town stuff looks like a first class sealer, but cure time seemed very slow.

Yes yes yes!!!!! Just cruised rite thru! Now we got somptn. Good job guys.

Geez. Could you imagine the tooling $?! Wonder if the guy made any prototypes and field tested them. That alone would be a feat. "Aint nobody got time fo dat"--Sweet Brown.

Learned about gluing in poplar dowels here on TU, and aint looked back. I tried to pull a hand twisted screw (.03 dia) out of this setup with a small cable wrapped around a pipe. Nada chance. Almost turned the bench over.

Thats a great question, since you dont see glide baits made targeting LM. I know that actions that work for LM also do well for specks. Ive made some smaller glide baits, and they didnt get many looks from specks. Seems like abrupt/random changes in direction w/out much forward progress are better, so I didnt fool around too long with gliders. You would think that they would work sometimes. I guess its all about what triggers their reactions on a regular basis.

You got that rite. Gloves, plastic board, and up wind! It gets so hot it smokes.

Nedyarb mentioned low viscousity super glue. I use this method, and its money for me. Any carving with power tools, filing, or machining is really predictable; afterwards. The super glue seems to really flow right into the wood for a good distance. I think this attribute is what makes it so good. After the glue sets up, its quick work with 220 and 320 to get a very nice base. It seals so well, that I can put D2T right over it with no bubbling. I learned about this from TU, and is my favorite sealing technique for balsa. I used to work hard and use bad language sealing balsa. Now all I need is Nitrile gloves, and a cutting board (HDPE) for any drips. I hold the plugs, and do one half at a time. The fumes arent pleasant..like Wasabee in the nose! Fast and effective.

Nice work, great engineering!