ReelAppealLures

I don't have an electronics background, I am lucky to work with people who can tell me what I need and how to do it. Never heard of it, but I just did a Google search. It seems like a simple version of a PLC, the guys at work use a software called RSLogix5000 by Rockwell Automation, but this pretty serious stuff and pricey. I asked an electrician at work if I needed a PLC but he said I can do everything I want with relays and it will be much simpler for fault finding etc. or replacing components. What ever I do with the electrical side I will post up how I did it.

Working on a chuck using SketchUp for feeding a long timber blank into instead of separate pieces. Hmmm I need a big bearing! and a bigger work bench...

Thanks for the replies, Great idea using Phillips head bits! This will save hours of labour making something that is pretty much the same. As for the electronics side of things I'm pretty lucky in this respect, I work in a highly automated sawmill/planer mill; so access to any gizmo is very easy and there is Systems Engineers and Shift Electricians who know how to make any piece of kit do anything. The power supply came from a redundant project where we were using a Co2 laser to apply a # code so it can be tracked throughout the process. The laser would print a 4 digit number on the board at a belt speed of around 400-450mpm. I like the idea of drilling the UHMWPE and offsetting, much like a quick release vice! I was going to try and track down a proper lead screw, what I have found so far is pricey and being a hack this is out of my scope. I really like the extruded aluminium, I nearly secured a whole lot at work from an optimiser built in Europe (they love this aluminium stuff) but one engineer realised what it's worth and stubbed that out! It would be easier to work with however, tapping and drilling holes, cutting... Plus we have all the nuts and bolts that fit in the slots at work. I will try and track some down for the final build. Can't help thinking how many baits I could have just made rather than messing with this...

Update, I have found a power supply and various other electrical components, just need to source some relays and limit switches; and some circuit breakers. The electrical side will be basic, - Push button to start cycle - Table will traverse, hit limit switch and traverse back contacting a limit that will stop the cycle. Can any one see any trouble if the cutter (biscuit jointer blade) passes back over the already cut surface? Otherwise I will need a pneumatic actuator and trigger this to lift the cutter for the return pass... I can't see any problem, as it will be tracing off the master. I'm looking at using wiper motors, they seem pretty damn reliable and are cheap enough. My power supply is either 240v/110v to 12vdc so it will work out great with wiper motors off a car. At this stage I'm wishing I had a metal lathe, the wooden prototype is O.K. but I feel a more solidly built machine from steel or aluminium would be far nicer. I'm leaning towards a steel build for ease of welding etc. I need to figure out how I will secure the blank, any ideas? Also would be interested in a chuck I could feed a long timber blank through, this would be ideal! Where would I look for that?

I'll get some images of what I have been working on, building the proto out of wood to iron out the bugs. Any updates from the above posts? Still have all your digits?

I run what is called a "baker rig" on some of my baits... I like to fish single hooks. This gives a little more hook exposure with all the benefits of a single hook...They are taped together and will pull apart when hooked up. Granted I don't fish for bass etc mostly large pelagics... Maybe you could try a larger hook? I like them big so when they inhale a lure you have a good chance of a hook finding home. These are R2S Shoguns but you should be able to get small in-line hooks for bass?

Scott, That is sick... Where did you get your servo's and lineal bearings etc from? I am still toying with the idea of making a non-concentric bait duplicator but lack a quality supply of odds and ends!

Have you tried "Saltys"? Scott should have something for them to chew on.

You could always use "inlines"... I make a lot of lures that swim single hooks. These are for lures that don't have the hangers lined up for singles, saves you having to run two split rings. These are dedicated hooks for lures so they are your best option.

Yep use syringes... It is accurate and easy, mix it well and scrape the sides, flat bottom mixing cup all the basics. You don't need to worry about bubbles if you have a propane torch, the CO2 breaks the surface tension of the epoxy and lets the bubbles escape ( it is not the heat ) . Hair dryers blow dust etc onto your lure where the torch will burn it before reaching the lure .

I went out and bought Brite-Bak tape after seeing how many people use it on here, but like you say it is no thinner than a/c tape, and it is more expensive and in smaller sized rolls. I epoxy over my foil before paint, but I no longer try and hide the foil edges, I use them for the overall design. I sent the lure out for testing on a local charter boat, the fish don't mind the foil edges!

Nice baits guys.... I have only attempted one bait so far with the Jone's Tone's foil... I was quite impressed by the finish for a first attempt. I used ADOS F2 adhesive, no issues with it. I added Mackerel stripes over the top, but it went on well. This photo has no epoxy over the foil, so it looks duller than what it is. I still prefer aluminum foil on my baits though...

Casting at Stripers? I would go for the Owner range in either ST-66 or ST-76... They are a little more pricey than your average hook but you pay for what you get, they won't let you down and are big enough for your lures giving you good hook projection.

I presume you will be targeting inshore/offshore pelagics with these hooks? What amount of drag will anglers who use your lures be fishing? I have guys fishing huge drags and most hooks can't handle it... ( 40lb + + + of drag ) Owner ST-66 in 5/0 Owner ST-76 in 5/0 (The Owner range is larger than a typical 5/0 say from Mustad.) Also available in barbless . Fisherman KG120 - 6/0 ( Strong hook, good for 120kg ) Decoy Y-W77 6/0-8/0 Gamakatsu GT Recorder 5/0 - 8/0 ( In the 8/0 size you will get 7 hooks for $64.95 ) Have you thought about using singles or inline singles on your lures? The Owner JOBU Big game hook is a great single and available up to 12/0...

Search for "Solarbaits" on You Tube, he has some good videos for those interested. For most of my poppers I have a sign writer cut white and black circles out of vinyl... I also get them to add application/transfer tape aswell. On the lures below I use a old air brush needle (fat end) to dot a white dot on the black pupil part of the eye for another dimension/light reflection thingy, helps with catching fishermen.

Again, use your thumb and bend to 45 degrees. Re-position the pliers further up to form the eye of the wrap. Push the wire over with your thumb. Grab the tag end with the Vise Grips, and start the wraps keeping the wire tight and tidy. Keep wrapping, the wire will soon become tight. Before going any further, check to see how your eye lines up, make any adjustment before the next step. Squeeze the wrap, you will feel the last wrap "pop" under the others. This will pull the wire tight, sometimes you may be able to make another wrap and squeeze again. Be careful you could split the body going to tight You could snip off the tag now and you would be done. The secret is to keep the wrap as short as possible to limit any leverage. I personally double back up my wrap because I like the look and its a bit "beefier" All done, go fishing

Now you have a solid connection you can wire up the popper body... Grab some poppers, you may have to twist / cut the old wire form your popper you want to re-wire...These are fresh off the dryer. Thread the wire in with the grommet, this is also where you would replace swivels etc... Make sure the wire passes through the swivel eye I line up the tow point eye to where I like it ( horizontal ) If you want to run single hooks remember to bend the wire on the tail horizontal aswell. Next up, add the weight or however your lure goes together and grab right down tight with the pliers ( narrow end )

Start wrapping, keeping things snug and tidy. Trim up the end and your done... 3 wraps is plenty, anymore your wasting time and wire.

I did this for another forum, I thought it may help you out with forming the eye. Also left in the bit about how I wire my poppers for any that find it informative. I will have to do a series of posts due to the restriction on images. Here's a "How to" on how I wire my poppers... ( I apologise in advance, I am not a hand model ) I think we all have some lures that could get another lease on life if we had them re-wired. This is only how I do it, there will be other ways or different techniques...Feel free to add on to the thread if you have some tips First up is the tools involved, most will have something lying around or a mate to pinch them off... - Vice Grips - Circlip Pliers ( Internal ) - 1.6mm 316 SS Wire - Grommets - Weights First steps are to form a tow point eye in the wire.... About 50mm down the wire, grab with the narrow end of the pliers and bend to 45 degrees. Re-grip further up on the pliers. Use your thumb and bend the wire over, you will need to re-position the pliers through the bend. Now grab the tag end with the Vice Grips, use the eye formed to put the round pliers into.

Yes, singles are great for the fish and angler, I run barbless trebles if using a treble hook...They do a lot less damage. I use my burrs in a jacobs chuck on my lathe...Burrs that will fit a dremel tool will be small, but it depends on how big your poppers will be. You can shape a mouth using a dremel and burr.You can also use a "spade" bit. Round off the corners of the bit to achieve a nice profile and drill your blanks...

I use a burr for small poppers... There are quite a few different burrs out there, single cut, double cut or like above. I use the burr in the picture above because it was available to me. The burr is around 25mm, but you can get smaller to suit your cup size. They make consistent cupped faces over and over, I use high RPM and the finish is good. NB. These will mess you up if you slip...Work safe. These have been created using the above burr. Good luck

Mark, I don't have access to silicon skirts etc unless I ship from the USA etc... So I used pre-made squid skirts. Works with trebles and singles, even if the ones I use are a lot larger than most Here is a squid imitation using the skirts on one of my popper's...I have used a orange/yellow skirt, then slid a clear/pink over top, similar to trolling lures.

HOK Kosmic Krome.... Prepare for a large dent in the wallet.

Well I gave it a go... Mixed results, but overall happy enough with the finish. I used Ados F2 adhesive it seemed to work fine and because you can spray it on there is no bumps like using normal glue. Jones Tones Foil, Simple plug and glue. I sprayed over the foil with transparent blue and added some mackerel stripes. Yet to apply any clear or epoxy but the finish will really pop once the epoxy is on. The foil has the look of a petroleum puddle in water or a similar look to Paua Shell ( abalone ) . I can see myself finding more use's for this foil. Bob, I would like to try some of the BriteBak tape, where is it purchased? I may be able to track some down this end of the world...