crankpaint
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Everything posted by crankpaint
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Thats alot of weight savings when you throw it 100 plus times a day and it looks good did you put in any ribs to make it stronger so the fish won;t crush it?I know you talks about it in your other post
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Thats a great looking casting,did you have any bubbles in it when you took it out of the mold before painting it?great work as aways -
Mark when it swims is the hook sliding up into the slot ready for the strike or hanging down below the bait?
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and in most cases the faster you reel the better the fish like them
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If im worryed about the paint between colors or letting it sit overnight i spray mine with acrlic clear spray out of a spray can it drys to the touch in about 10 mins and can be epoxy/e-tex over in 30 min and only takes a light coat to do it and the paint stays where i put it
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what bobp said
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is that the new orange crush bait?looking good -
as a lipless bait (like a rattle trap type) you can fish it at any depth becouse its a sinking type lure that sink about 1 foot a second so you can count it down to the depth you want to fish counting ...1...2,,,3,,,4.. ect to get it down 4 feet or deeper if you count longer. hope this helps you out
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He has some good well made stenciles,and if you send him a profile of your baits he can make some to fit musky size plugs,i have used them and even painted a few lures for him with his stenciles so he could make a display,he and his wife make the stenciles and there great people to work with
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your right about mixing by volume bob(my bad sorry) and if it works well don't mess with it,and as stated above more times then not its the mixing and not the amount so long as its close in the amount of the two parts, its going to work,all i was saying was its easyr to weigh each part and mix the two and end up with what imo is a better mix as its a 50/50 mix or as nedyarb uses 1.1 to 1.0 thats still mighty close to 50/50
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Your right in that one part is lighter then the other,if you read the instruction(aways a good thing to do first) its a mix of weight not amount that is mixed to get the best finish,as for heat it helps the cureing some but it's not like a paint where the hotter it is the faster it will cure,after 70 (manuf. spec.) it will not help set it much faster and below 70 deg. it will stay soft longer
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E-TEX sets up by a chem.reaction of the two parts not by the temp(yes it takes longer at lower temps) of the air outside at 70 deg. it sets up the best so you will have some working time.. so if the baits sticky or soft the mix was'nt right like i said in the above post get a small scale from harbor fright to weigh out equle parts and your prob. will be solved just mix it well so the two parts are well blended
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You might also try filling the hollowed out part with epoxy as that would add some weight to it without adding anything to the bait just makes it heavy.also might try making a mold out of it and pouring some out of hard plastic? it would hold up better to the toothie critters
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You also might just be getting whats called dry tip,it happens when more air then paint gos out the end of the airbrush and drys on the needle causeing it to clog adding a drop or two of gliseren to the paint helps
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Coffee Pot Heating Element For Drying Lures
crankpaint replied to CedarLakeMusky's topic in Hard Baits
sounds like it might suit your intended use and with an on off every 8 min. would make it a consestent temp. in the box i'd try it out somewhere safe (middle of a concrete slab)and see if it will work for 8 hours -
If you don't have a scale to weigh the two parts equaly get one there about 10 bucks at harbor fright and your mixing prob. will be over after applying it hit it with a hair dryer and get the bubbles out as it turns on your drying wheel as it heats the e tex and gets it curing at a little hotter temp that should do the trick
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If you talk to robert at lurelayouts on line he'll make what you need im sure and he has a fast turn around,I have quite a few of his stencles and there top of the line and well made
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is that the amount of weight you tryed on the lure to get it to sink or are you going by the weight of the one posted by you?,if your going by the orig. weight you might get by with alot less weight with your bait and it won't take and wear you out casting it,i make a few glide baits that sink at 1-2 feet per second and only add 3 oz to a 9inch bait to get that
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is that the same chartruse perch pattern i put in the recipe posting? looks like a killer bbm -
Ben i hit my baits with a hair dryer after applying d2t and it levels out the d2t on the bait really well and also gives me a little more work time so you can brush off any excess that runs as you turn it and hit it again to smooth it back out.becouse its not heat that causes it to harden it a chem. reaction of the two as there mixed
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Thats what i'm hoping -
why worry about small holes after painting the lure any small holes will most likely be filled with paint and the top coat will cover that so you should.nt have any prob. with air leaks
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IF your pouring along the back try pouring the lower half without the mb. and then adding them to the top half that would make the top lighter even more and might cure the prob.
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DO like i do take a pic send it to your email and download it,then you can open it in paint and size it or anything else you want to do,Then you can log on here and upload it to the gallery
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purple back,chartruse sides and pearl belly w/red throut patch and silver glitter in the top coat