atlasstone

For me, if I am doing more than one of the same design, I will shoot one color on all then move to the next. It generally doesn't take me very long to clean between colors. I use a wash bottle so that I can spray water down in my cup, then I back flush it, shoot the rest of the water out, run a little cleaner through and I'm ready to move one. It takes me about 30 seconds to a minute to clean. I have my station set up with a hair dryer fixed in such a way that my bait sits under the dryer to set the paint while I clean. Two birds with one stone. I have two brushes, but they are set up with different needles for different applications rather than moving between colors.

The thinner coats did not have the milky effect I experienced with the thicker coat, but it did have the satin finish to it. I am personally looking at this as a feature rather than an issue though. I know I can use one product and get a satin finish with it, or I can polish it up and make it look like glass. If I put it on thick and sand it with the 1000 grit, then it shows me where any imperfections are and I can easily fix them. So far for me, the thicker coats level out better too. My attemps to polish out epoxy have failed, but this stuff works well. I'm assuming that if I fish it and get scratches or nicks, I can just buff them right out. For the volume (or lack thereof) that I do, I think this will work out great. I should also note that I am not adding the 1% MEKP that the directions call for so I'm not sure if that will have any effect or if it will just make it harder. I plan to test it though.

Thanks much!

Well, I got my Solarez today and did alittle testing with it on some scrap PVC. As was mentioned earlier in this thread, my thinner coats turned out pretty good, but the coverage was not quite what i was looking for. When I used a little thicker coat, I got that waxy sort of milky look which seems pretty apparent on black. I was able to fix this with a little sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper and some finecut rubbing compiund. The finish also polishes up quite nicely to get the gloss look some are looking for. Considering the fact that I used an unsanded piece of PVC with a shot of spraypaint on it, I'm pretty happy with the end result. If you look, you can see the reflection of my lamp in the picture, The question about rubbing compound was posed earlier in the thread, so I thought these results might benefit. The presanding with the 1000 grit definately helped alot because I could see when it was level and smooth before polishing it. I'll try to get a before and after next time. I wasn't sure if it would work on this one.

How do I get information regarding the Club Membership? My apologies if this has been addressed but my search only returned an old post that mentioned using a "contact us" link that I am unable to find. Thanks!

My design was completely trial and error. Some of the things I researched were the use of props, tubes, aquariums, bilge pumps and ROV ring thrusters and whatever makes those lap pools work. I never found the ring thrusters and I couldn’t figure out how the lap pools worked so those ideas got tabled. I think I understand the concept of the design you are thinking about, JBlaze and after looking at some of the laminar videos that Anglinarcher mentioned, I think it could work. My main concern would be the turbulence as you mentioned. I too don’t know the math around it, but when I tested using flat walls I found that the current never got established because the water was not being guided so it cause a lot of agitation. It got better when I put a wall in the middle to block the disturbance from getting into the flow, much like a sea wall. The other issue I faced was (what I assume) was a narrow current when I tried to put the bait directly in front of the pump. The bait would work for a second then fall out of the stream so stability was really difficult. With your design (if I understand the concept) the holes would be put in place to solve the narrow current issue and the wall on the return side would help the turbulence. It might be helpful to put a retainer wall down the middle to isolate the current and protect it from any deflection at the other end. Another idea might be to use a two pump system and a PWM to slow the main pump down slightly so that the return pump can mitigate any build up that might cause the agitation. With my design, I was not able to get the return to equal the flow because the return on the pump is pulling water from all directions but only pushing water in one direction so that’s why I put it behind the curves. This is just my theory though as I am certainly no expert. I know that this can be done and my design is very crude for what it could be. I based my design on the fact that water flows faster on the outside bends of rivers (which is why I fish them more because they tend to be deeper) and the fact that if I put my thumb over the end of a garden hose I could spray my sister with water from a distance that afforded me the head start I needed as a child to avoid her wrath. Not exactly a formulaic approach.

I found that video as well and based my first 4 or 5 designs on it using 6 inch and 4 inch piping because I don't have the space that the 12 inch piping would require (that's how I ended up with the 6 inch pipe i used in my current design ). I used a couple different bilge pumps and modified them to use a prop to simulate the trolling motor. The current was pretty good but not fast enough for what I wanted to see out of crankbaits. The biggest issue I ran into was the inconsistency that a prop introduces to the water column. If you watch the action on the video you can see what I ran into. The bait, even though it's held stationary, has a tendency to drop and lift with the vortex cause by the prop in the current (I'm assuming anyway). The cranks I tested would fall out of rhythm and get pushed in and out of the currents. I tried different props and got the same results regardless of size and running the pump in it's designed centrifugal configuration didn't produce enough speed. I really like the concept of this one though. I was just not able to get it to work for me, but i"d love to have a design like it, just smaller with an enclosed motor. But, for what it's worth, there are the results of my testing with that design.

Great thread... I think I'm going to try this as well. For the issue with curing longer baits, one might try using the nail dryers but stack them on top of each other as opposed to having all the bulbs facing each other. You could use something as simple as a childs mobile to spin the bait which would ensure that it was cured evenly and it would allow for the slow curing method mentioned in the thread since roughly half of the bait would remain unexposed (is that a word?) at any given time. When not curing long baits, it would be just as easy to clamp it back together with the bulbs facing each other for smaller cranks. Just a thought...

There is a link to a video that shows it running in the original post. I had some difficulty embeding a video and getting the post down to 10 pictures so it's not very obvious. Is that what you are looking for?

It depends. The reason I use the magnets to hold the center section in place, as opposed to having it fixed, is to allow me to change the flow of the current. I can push it over to wards the pump side to give me more room, but less speed or vice versa. You also don't need to have it evenly spaced. For some lures that have a wider wobble, I will push the back end closer to the wall and leave a little more room on the other end. Thanks. My first designs used a prop.. I tried it in plastic piping and in aquarium style tanks but what I found was the flow was really unstable. My guess is that since the prop is designed for thrust it creates a vortex behind it that churns the water. The bilge pumps are centrifugal so the vortex is contained in the housing. Again... just a guess. There are certainly some trade offs with it for what you get in the size so I'm looking forward to seeing what others can do with it. I'm sure it will be improved on, and to be honest, that's half the reason I wanted to post it here. A lot of great minds here and I'd love to see it refined. I'm experimenting now with putting a "roof" on the back end to keep the water from climbing on the bend to see if I can contain enough of the current to make the center piece a little smaller to allow for more room in the "lane". The design I really wanted to work with involved the use of a rim-driven or ring thruster, but I could not find a good source for them.

Prolly fishin' Thanks for all the feedback. I went through several designs before settling on this one. I'm just glad to be able to give something back for all the info I've gained here. Great resource!

Thanks! Glad to see it was well received.

I have been searching for a small test tank design so that I can check the action of my baits prior to going out to the lake etc. I have limited room and often move things around so it is not very prudent for me to build a large static tank. I've not been able to find anything, so after a few failed attempts, I ended up with the design below. I'm sure it can be improved on, but I figured there would be others in my situation that might find this useful, so I figured I would share. Materials: 1 20 gallon long aquarium (they sell these in regular, tall and long... get the long) 1 roll of 10' X 10" aluminum flashing (found at Lowes) 1' (2x6") 6" sewer pipe 1 7" section of 1.5" x 3/4" PVC (I know you have some of that crankbait PVC laying around right) 4 3" 95 pound pull magnets from Harbor Freight 1 1200 GPH bilge pump (walmart) 1 6" section of 1" PVC pipe 1 el-cheapo 2" brush 1 tube of clear silicone Start with the tank: Tank Just make sure it's clean and hold water Next layout the aluminum flashing. You will need two sections cut at 17" long. Then mark a line 1/2" in from each end and 2" from the top and bottom. We are going to fold and crease these to make the final 6" x 16" piece a little more rigid. Flashing Make your folds as straight as possible, folding the long side first. Otherwise it you will have open sections on the final sheet. Make sure to hammer the creases to get it nice and clean. One one of the two sections, You will need to cut a notch on the side for the pump nozzle and a notch on the bottom to let water in. the side notch starts about 1.25" from the bottom and is 2" tall and 1.5 inches deep The notch for the water will go on the bottom and is 3/4" tall and 4" long Next, make the nozzle for the bilge pump. The nozzle will need to be about 5.25" long when complete. Cut a section of the 1" Pipe and use a heat gun to soften the PVC. Once it is flexible, push the PVC onto the handle of the brush and press it until it cool. I used one of my wife's oven mits so i wouldn't burn myself (shhhh don't tell her) Next, heat the other end and push it onto the bilge pump to get a tight fit. Make sure that your nozzle is vertical when doing this and try not to get too over zealous with the heat gun like I did. Close up Pump Side Yours should be a little longer than this picture. this from from an earlier attempt, but you get the idea. Now plaxe the pump in the corner and make sure it will line up with the notch in your aluminum sheet. Assuming it looks like it will fit pretty good, silicone the aluminum sheets in. One of the aluminum sheets should be about 4" from the end of the aquarium (using the inside glass to measure) assuming the sheet is centered on the glass. The other sheet will be about 8" from the end of the aquarium to allow for room to block off the pump and reservoir. I put a mark in the center of the sheet and on the center of the glass, duct taped it on and then pushed the ends into place. The end result should give you some curved ends in the aquarium. Next, Build the center section. Cut a piece of aluminum about 45.5" long. Mark 2" in the top and bottom and fold it like the other sections. Use some self tapping screw to screw the aluminum into one of the 6" sections of sewer pipe. Place the other 6" section inside the aluminum and then concave the ends of your PVC trim. the inside of the PVC trim should be about 6.5". Next, wedge the PVC in between the pipes to make a tight fit. Next take two of the magnets and put a knotted lop through the center and put some duct tape on the bottom of the magnet to help protect the glass. Magnets Use a screwdriver to pry the magnet out of the metal part for the other two magnets and put a piece of duct tape on them also to protect the glass. You will use these to help hold the center section of the tank but also allow you to adjust your flow. Magnets Installed This next section is optional, but I got a Pulse Wave modulator from amazon for about $7 and I use it to control the speed of the motor to test swim baits. i like the current a little slower for those. I put the PWM in a little plastic case and stuck it to the side of the tank with carpet tape. PWM PWM in Case and here she is... all done. Compact, portable, easy to fill and empy and you can put it away nicely with very little cost of real estate. Here is a short video of it in action. One word of warning, when you move the center piece to adjust your flow, you may need to hold it for a second until the current gets established so that your center doesn't move. The magnets help to hold it in place if you move then around. since the metal part is gone from the magnets on the bottom, they fit under the aquarium and can move if on a table surface. Well, I hope this helps someone! It's not perfect but it's gives you a good idea of how the bait will act.

Thanks for this! I'm thinking of trying this for some soft plastic designs or maybe expermenting with some two part epxy or foam baits.

Hmmm... That definitely gives me a few thing to try. I keep all my stuff set up and ready to go but I haven't been doing much in the way of prep. If I feel "inspired" I just kind of get after it. It sounds like I need to slow down and spend some more time on prepping the bait AND myself. I'll be sure to report back with my results. Thanks so much!

I re-read this thread and although the information is extremely helpful, I was unable to find reference to my particular questions. I'm not sure if I am asking them in the wrong way or if I simply overlooked the answers.I was looking to see if I should be focusing my attention more on preparing the painted bait for clear coat, or if I should pay more attention to preparing the bait for paint. After taking one of my baits to the local NAPA auto paint center, the associate told me that it looks like I need to focus on preparing the bait by roughing the surface slightly then cleaning it with alcohol, wiping it down with a tack cloth (low tack) then again with alcohol. After which, he recommended not touching the bait and avoiding any dust or dirt when I painted it. His final suggestion was to clear it as soon after the paint was cured in order to avoid similar issues with dust etc prior to clearing. I went ahead and picked up an adhesion promoter as well. I have yet to test out his suggestions so we'll see how it goes. I saw one of the posts that had a link to 5star, but I wasn't able to find any of the PPG products there. I'm not sure why I can't find an online resource to purchase the PPG products mentioned in blades post, but if anyone has a good resource for it, I would appreciate it. My last comment on my post was around the clear coat additives that I have seen reference on some of the auto painting sites called "fish eye reducer". I have seen the products, but I was wondering if anyone here had any experience with them. The general consensus elsewhere seems to be split as to whether they should be used or not, so I didn't know if this is something I should look at for our application. I didn't see any posts that said they used this type of product, other than the reducers to thin the clear, so I figured I could pose the question in case someone had tried this. I apologize for any oversights on my part, but I hope this helps to clarify what I was looking for. I did not intend to ask anything that had already been addressed. Thanks!

This is really good info. I have just started to use clear coats for my baits, but I am still getting the "orange peel" look so I'm still trying to figure out what I am doing wrong. I've used both HVLP and airbrush methods with the same result so I'm wondering if I am either putting it on too thick, or I am not prepping the bait properly. THe clear that I have calls for 2 "medium wet" coats, but I'm not sure how to determine if I am doing that. Can anyone elaborate on the steps they take to prep the bait for clear or if the secret is in prepping the bait for paint? Also, I'd like to try the "PPG 2021 Ceramiclear" but I cannot seem to find an online resource that sells it. Does anyone have a good resource for that? How about any thoughts on fish eye reducers? Thanks!

I have a soda blaster that I use to get old paint off. It's like a sand blaster but it uses baking soda as the media. It makes it really nice to get into all those small places that are difficult to get to with sandpaper. So far, this method has worked out really well for me.

Hi all... I'm pretty new to painting baits and to the forum as well, but I wanted to mention that I use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean my airbrush parts. I had one for cleaning tattoo equipment and it works great so I decided to use it for my air brush and it seems to do a great job. You can get a small one for under $50 and most Walmarts and Targets carry a concentrated ultrasonic cleaning solution in their jewelry department. I break the brush down and run them in the cleaner for about 20 min then rinse it all off well. The only thing I don't put in there is the needle because things can move around and I don't want to take a chance on hooking or warping the needle tip. It makes the wife’s wedding ring all sparkly again too which serves as a nice distraction so I can sneak away and get back to painting.