bassthumbs

I'm using that sander currently and good so far does the job. I keep it on for hours at a time and still going. I think for the price it's worth it I even use it for sanding skateboard decks that I press myself .

forgot to mention yes the LSS and solvent top coat products will amber and over time it will more so. With Dn as top coat you should be fine. With the LSS you could dip all day, just don't know what it would do to the foil. The waterbourne Lacquers go on white and cure crystal clear and have added uv resistance and durabillity, but harder to sand and apply. Will your DN not even out everything in the end. I'm using LSS-Creatix- Duplicolor Acrilyc Enaml Gloss In spray bomb and is working for me, but I'm only doing a few at a time.

There is a difference from auto to millwork lacquers in the base of the product u.v. inhibitors,flex agents its endless and all kinds chemicals give durability to the elements a car will see. I'm currently using the M.L.Cambell Pre-cats,and thinned 20% even up 40% depending on the situation in the booths I'm in, on kitchen cabinets. Most of these pre-catylized laquers are self sealling (clears) but I prefer to always lay down 2 coats of sanding sealer but I'm locking in the stain color and giving myself some easy sanding without taking any color off. All that being said on wood baits I use a spraybomb of satin lacquer to seal the wood before testing and paint. Its easy fast and quick and no problem with paint adhesion and thats all I'm using it for is to seal the bait. I did a test with some waterbourne pre-cats. dipping the baits and allthough it worked lots of bubbles and longer set up. With lacquer always be careful with direct heat(hair dryrer heat gun) Not to mention all the other negative things.I have not done a foil over yet so can't say what would happen. if using lacquer keep in mind its a thin process its not going to work as high build or even out differences very well. Just my 2c Could try dipping in a quart of uncut pre-cat sanding sealer and see what happens just becareful on the film build. Good luck

I picked up the dremel rechargeble for $40.00 and its all I use for eyes and detailing been pretty happy with it lo and High speed is nice to have. And I have a nock off with full variable speed 110v that I haven't used much but works really well, I just like the no cord for me and it is very light.

Thanks Vic and Bobv I have an account with an ind. Plastics in town seems to be reasonable on price. Only used the mirror coat to seal a new bait, I just brushed it on and it has a 60min open time so I guess if I have few ready to go could do a bunch without excessive waste. For final coats I think I'll stick to a quick drying sealer. Thanks guys Pete

I use old createx bottle filled with water and acetone 50/50 works well. And give the brushes a good bath dismantled in the same solution every once and a while.

Just wondering if anyone has tried this epoxy it is a 2 to 1 high gloss, Cant get my hands on Dn, looking for options also thinking of plastic dip clear gloss wich is soft yet super strong I think it might give baits that flesh feel and increase them to hold on. Any thoughts? Pete

Great just getting started in lure making and now every time I get on TU I got something else to try something! Thanks Dieter You guys amaze me nice blades! Is there such thing as ( AA FOR DIY)!!

SPJ are you dipping the lures and hanging or turning?

If your using Creatix Autoair colors You shouldn"t Have a problem, As long as everything has dried properly. I'm new to tu and takle making but have just finished my first 4 baits and I used dupliclor acrylic enamel Clear gloss and their Mettallic clear gloss in spray cans with good quick results, will be moving to the epoxy side of things in the near future. In the past On vehichles and such using creatix auto air for tape outs, I could clear with any automotive clear and all was fine.Might want to check out creatix web site for compatibles.Good luck.

I'll definitely check it out thanks!

thanks I'll have to give it a try!

Mark is that stuff simalar to the smartboard products for exterior window batons ad such or the maintnance free decking?

wanted to mention I'm using 20g stainless for all my hook eyes and gurrilla super glue wich I cant pull out with pliers so far! Do most of install everything hook eyes and lips before paint and tape off just wondering? I haven't tried a through wire yet but wiil plan to thanks Diemai thanks again everyone Pete

Great ideas thanks guys, I picked up some little lindy floats in a tubular form for a $1 for 8 and was going to slipem in just like that. Wanted to mention I tested a 2.5"long and 3/4"w cherry crank in the tub and it bounced back up a lot quicker than i thought it would with 1/8 balast worked quite well and had a decent swim for first one that got wet! Have to say though the basswood is by far my favorite so far for hand carveing. I'm going to continue sampling with the different woods and all the suggestions and repost after they take a bath, I have 6 I'm onto paint with Basswood, pine,maple,and cherry

looks good Vic nice job! Pete

Thanks everyone for all the insight I believe this is only the begining of many questions to arise! I'm going to try some stick baits and some divers with the dense woods And probbably some large pike and muskee plugs I did get some basswood and ordered some balsa. appreciate the info Pete

No don't come across it very often. Mainly maple cherry and oak are the most common. I picked up some basswood haven't had time to get into it yet. I'm going to find some balsa. Too. I have so much maple for free thought I could put it to use.

I work with lacquer everyday as do you and just from feed back of clients and custumers as to what happens to cabinets and furniture when they come in contact with water! Or the wife screams at ya for not using a coaster under your beer! that being said, lacquer and water hate each other, I agree that sealing and priming your baits with solvent based materials can be an advantage maybe even your color choices but for final clear I would gaurrentee failure at some point.Lacquer is to britol and does not have any give or Flex. I am currently in the process of the change over to waterbourne lacquers in a couple of shops and will be trying out dipping my cranks in it to test but typically they are intended for interior use so I think you would be asking for problems using it in water all day long not to mention temp change constantly from sun to cool water.. Just my 2 cents I'm knew to TU also and learning a ton of stuff! There are some pros on here with serious talent and tested waters far beyond what i know but I do know lacquer of all brands and types and their characteristcs. Do you use conversion varnish at all it might hold out longer as its a little tougher.

Thanks Vic, checked it out, great tutorial by Gene should help lots! Finished off a 2" shallow crank today in maple, ended up using my sander for almost all the shaping.It actually worked out quite well for first one in maple. And like you said should finish super smooth. I'll try to post a couple after a littlte more practice and testing of the buoyancy and such! I'm a little anxious to break out my arsenal of airbrushes and autoair colors I've accumilated over the years! but first things first! thanks again Vic this site is so helpfull Pete

Thanks Vic, I thought that would make sense so I give it a try with some fir I just wasn't really pleased with the ease of splinters coming off was a little frustrating, could just be my skills at carving but I'll keep at it thanks for your input!

Great job! Dieter the Pike in hamburg are lickin there chops!

Hi everyone, first things first this is my first post and like to say that TU is amazing for talent,help and info you guys are simply great artiists and a great community! I'm hooked! So my question is I haven't heard or seen anything on carving with maple? I am a painter working for various cabinet shops spraying their products and have been doing this for a dozen years, so I have unlimited access to the most common species of wood found in your kitchens and furnishings. Maple,cherry,walnut,oak,fir,alder,hickory are most common unfortunatly no basswood or balsa! Maple is the most used up here in Canada eh, so very easy to get my hands on the cleanest blanks in any size I like. I fish for bass and want to create my own cranks hopefully as good as some of you guys on TU if possible once again amazing talent here! I do realize the density of malpe but could that also be beneficial? It is tuff to carve but can be done.Will the weight difference be its downfall? So any feed back would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Pete