greg.p

Abachi oder Kiefer 10cm: 12mm dick 13cm: 14mm dick 17,5cm: 18mm dick 22cmcm: 18mm dick lure widths yes flat sides.

you dont need the adhesive if your going to tighten the netting onto the lure. why give yourself double the work for the same result

you get it at the pharmacy. its a clear liquid. just add a few drops to your paint, mix well. you will see it works. if you dont get what you want, add a few more drops till it does. i use it all the time. glycerine works for me and a lot more people.

add glycerine to your paint, it will help with the problem.

wrap the bait with tu tu net. fix with clips then heat the netting with a heat gun. it will shrink the netting to the bait, very tight fit doing this. no need for glues or the like. when you take the netting of the bait, its the shape of the bait. works for me.

Propionate sealer ?

put your air pressure UP. it helps push the stencil onto the surface. airbrush control seems to be the problem.

i use car body filler. elastic padding. but any brand does the job. easy sanded smooth. been useing it for a year now no problems at all.

how can you weigh the etex. as one part is lighter than the other. or do you make an alowance for this. heat aparently is a big part of the cureing for etex, loz harrop put some people right over this on an other fourm. he has a heater built in with his dryer. its the heat that sets the etex hard, its a part of the cycle.

i fully agree, some i think arnt worth the money. but the others have an action all of there own. rapala have been around for a long time. and get the job done.

japanese lures are some of the finest made.

around 30hrs. good fun

twice the price of an neo iwata. and wont be any better. just my opinion

hi all, i use .06 wire to hold my baits on the dryer. once dry you can hold the wire with plyers and just pull it out the epoxy. no damage anywhere. try it

good video vodkaman made. good idea guys.

.....epoxied into the lure blank . am i right in saying just dab the end of screw eye in glue then screw in. or do you do it some other way...

thanks diemai. good links

thankyou mark

hey . where do you guys buy your screw eyes. what size. and thickness do you use for what. thanks

its the wood. expanding/contracting

you can use a strip of a pollythene bag. wrap it round your finger for spreading the superglue. cheeper than gloves.

could be white plastic drinking cups mixed in acitone.

Lureparts.nl did have some for sale bud.

hi all. i think people need to read this about epoxy... Health Risks When liquid epoxy evaporates, (this evaporation process speeds up with poor ventilation and high temperatures) its fumes become respirable. Other respirable particles are produced by sanding partially cured epoxy. Epoxy may be hard enough to sand after a couple of hours, however it may not be completely cured for up to two weeks. The dust produced by the sanding of this epoxy contains hazardous components. [1] [4] Respiratory Harm When epoxy fumes are inhaled, they can affect the nose, throat, and lungs. Most symptoms from the inhalation of epoxy involve inflammation and therefore irritation of the nose, throat, and lungs. Repetitive and high amounts of exposure to these fumes can result in sensitization and asthma. When dust from partially cured epoxy is inhaled, the particles become trapped in the mucus lining of the respiratory system and can cause serious health problems. According to West System, a leading epoxy manufacturer, this dust should never be inhaled. [2] Sensitization and Asthma Sensitization, in this case, is the state of being allergic to epoxy. Sensitization can occur at any point, regardless of how many times or for how long you’ve been exposed to epoxy. Your chances of being sensitized will increase if you’re exposed to a greater amount of fumes in an unventilated area, but even one episode of exposure can lead to an allergic reaction. This is why preventative safety is so important in regard to epoxy. Once sensitized, even small amounts of the substance can trigger allergic reactions and it will be increasingly difficult to work with the material. There is also no definite cure for sensitization, only methods to relieve the symptoms. [2] According to MayoClinic.com, sensitization from irritant exposure in the workplace can be classified as Occupational Asthma, which is defined as “asthma that’s caused or worsened by breathing in a workplace irritant, such as chemical fumes, gases or dust. Like other types of asthma, occupational asthma can cause symptoms, such as chest tightness, wheezing and shortness of breath.” [3] Also according to MayoClinic.com, two of the “High Risk Occupations” for developing occupational asthma are Adhesive Handlers and Users of Plastics and Epoxy Resins, among many others.

move the line tie towards the bait. you have it smack in the middle. that will work.