LimpNoodle

Should be able to use a smaller hook in that mold. It's pretty forgiving.

Best I could offer would be a sticker on the blade. Like what you see on some chatterbaits.

Mine would say "Make sure you put that thing away and clean up the mess when you're done".

Mold should always be heated up first. Use a release agent like Drop Out. Try loosening the grip on the mold handles.

Same thing here. I've got heads I poured a couple of months ago that are still shiny.

That white lead oxide is nasty stuff. Make sure you're wearing gloves when handling it.

Glad I could help ya out. It's a nice mold and I really wish there was a standard Mustad/EC/VMC hook that would fit in it. I'd much rather pay $0.10 than $0.35.

The Gami is a drop in replacement. No modifying the mold needed...if you get the G674 hooks.

There's a reason you used glass. It's a poor conductor of heat.

There is a Gami hook that works. I've used it and my buddy uses it. Not sure of the number. Give Capt. Hook a call and ask them. Just checked. G674

Don't leak, hold 20 lbs, better heat control, don't leak, can pour 4 ounce jigs and the don't leak.

Craftsman tools have been made in China for quite some time now. It's why the price hasn't really gone up in 30 years. 30 Years ago I purchased a pair of Craftsman bull nosed nippers. Cost back then was a staggering $17. Cost today is about $20 for Craftsman. I can get Kobalt for $10. Both made in China, both with a lifetime warranty.

Mine is set around 700-750° depending on the mold.

Pour 10, make a spin cast mold and you're done.

Since you pay for the die the minimum order is not all the much. I know people who have had Hagen make a die. Minimum quantity was around 200. Of course the more you order the cheaper it will be.

I use either a electric frying pan or a hot plate and pan to preheat my jigs/lures. That way I can control how hot they get. Works much better than a heat gun IMHO and it's a lot quicker when doing large quantities.

Those look really nice.

To prevent the lead flash/seepage you can do what I do when I modify a mold for hooks. Fill the cavity with red RTV, do this on both sides of the mold. Apply a liberal coating of talc powder (baby powder). Now place the form in the cavity and apply some more talc. Close the mold and clamp it closed. Wait 24 hours, remove the form, blow out the talc and start pouring. I've had to do this with some molds to prevent the lead from flashing around the hook eye. On my smaller banana head jig mold if I use the EC 635 black nickle hooks the lead will flash. A small bit of RTV saves me a lot of time.

I'll have to mic it.

The problem is getting the wire eye small enough. Normal wire bender makes them too large. The wire is pretty heavy to make a small loop with round nose pliers.

Great necro thread. The first postings on this thread were in 2010.

If you're smelting wheel weights you probably have contaminated your lead with zinc. It can cause problems.

I know that samples have been provided to a well know wire supplier. I have not yet heard back any info beyond that.

I don't own it. If it had been in stock when I ordered my RCBS I would have gotten this pot instead.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/267665/lyman-mag-25-digital-melting-furnace-115-volt?cm_mmc=pe_activity_category-_-bullet_casting-_-campaignemail-_-20160208 Note! I have not personally used this furnace but I have heard good things about it. Cheaper than the RCBS and much better than the Lee.