LimpNoodle

RCBS pot is on sale for $315 right now.

I'll give the stirrer a try. Guess I'll have to also try mixing some clear in the white. I've been "borrowing" paint from a buddy. He gets all his from Prismatic. I'm going to go out Thursday and "borrow" some white and glowbee

I done hundreds of slabs with a gun and never had a problem. If they are banging together it's a problem of the rack and not the painting method. You can get a real electrostatic gun for not much more than the HF gun and it will last much longer than the HF gun and do a better job. http://www.eastwood.com/original-hotcoat-powdercoating-gun.html?fee=7&fep=3139&SRCCODE=GA220010&adpos=1o2&creative=81975357540&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiA0-GxBRDWsePx0pPtp4sBEiQACuTLNhgO1eJy8H0i0x1g6EBmt5q2XFSY6e7pq3QcE9D1u3QaAlk_8P8HAQ

Ran out of the last pound I had and can't remember where I got it. It was pretty decent paint. Had to break down and use some Pro-Tec I had laying around. That stuff is concrete. Couldn't get it to fluff up in my fluid bed to save my butt. So now I'm on the hunt for some decent white powder paint that works in a fluid bed. Any suggestions?

I picked up 100 lbs of lead scrap the other day and got 98 lbs of lead out of it. Good soft lead. The kind that if you grab it with needle nose pliers it sticks. $70 for the scrap, couple of bucks worth of propane and some of my time which I have way too much of.

Concrete sealer would work quite well too.

Coat hanger wire is way to soft. Most muskie guys use .051 or .062 wire. Those are not easy to bend but they are very strong.

Hagen's Lakeland Worth Those are the big three. Really depends on how many and what finish you need. The markup on blades can be shocking. I just checked Hagen's and for 1000 3.5 nickel blades they want $54.56 Barlows would be $87.80 Also be advised that different companies sizes don't always match up.

If I'm using a electrostatic gun I just put all the bodies on a wire and apply the paint then bake. If I'm dipping I use Teflon wire/rod in the correct size.

I've cast close to 5,000 worm weights for spinner bodies. Keep the pin oiled. If you're quick enough to pull the pin before the lead cools you're some kind of superhero. Keep a light coat of oil on the pin and you'll have no problems.

None of the Lowe's or Home Depot stores around here carry it any longer. It's actually gotten pretty hard to locate.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BHI4JU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 I've used this one instead of the Devcon and it works quite well. Amazon also has the Devcon. http://smile.amazon.com/2-ton-epoxy-two-Oz-Bottles/dp/B005K091ZU/ref=pd_sim_21_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0B5G7MZCPT9E5GTMJAG1&dpID=41iMmDIN6ZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

lurepartsonline sells a black delta blade without the holes. Barlow's sells a unpainted blade with the holes.

Make sure you get the talcum based powder. Some are corn starch based. Some are a mix.

Barlow's is my "local" store. About an hour away. I tend to buy molds from Zeiner's because I save sales tax.

The L570BP is my go to hook when I need a Aberdeen hook. However most all my fishing is for hybrid and striped bass so a Aberdeen hook really doesn't do it most of the time.

I'll agree that the Eagle Claw BP series are some awesome hooks. I'll use them over Mustad every chance I get. I've been playing with the VMC Barbarian hooks the past month. They are a great hook too. Since Eagle Claw doesn't make a good 90° bend hook in the BP series those VMC hooks work great. Looking forward to see if the new Do-It tear drop mold will work with the barbarians.

My two main sources for powder paint are Rosey's or Prismatic. Always got to watch the shipping. I try to never order less than 5 lbs from Prismatic. If I only need a pound or two I have a buddy that orders a lot from them and I have him add my order to his. I'm still looking for a inexpensive source for good flake.

Wheel weights will void what little warranty the Lee pots come with. Also make sure you're getting ALL the zinc wheel weights out of there. A bit of zinc melted in will cause all kinds of problems. I get good clean lead scrap for $0.75 a pound. I smelt it in a dutch oven over a crab/turkey cooker. If I pick up 100 lbs of lead scrap I usually end up with 97-98 lbs of usable lead.

Those aren't valves in the first couple of pictures. Those are fittings. Don't over think this stuff people. Drilling the hole 1 or two bit sizes smaller than the tubing and pulling the tubing through the hole provides a leak proof seal and it's easy to do. On a side note instead of aquarium tubing I use the Clippard Urethane hose. It's TOUGH stuff. My Cockatoo has a hard time chewing on it. If you find your local Clippard distributor and purchase a needle valve like a MNV-4K2 for flow control ask them if they have any scrap tubing laying around. Most of them will just hand you a short section that's all you need. Be advised though that once you put it on a barbed fitting it's hard to impossible to get off. Clippard sells a single barb fitting that you can, if you know the trick, remove the tubing. A fitting with multiple barbs makes it so you have to cut the tubing off. These small flow control valves and fittings are right in my hand basket. Sold thousands of them for aquarium use a few years back. As far as a air source I went with this one.http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 It will power four 3" cups with no problem.

I'll be the odd man out. I prefer a Clippard MNV-4 or a FabcoNV-55 needle valve. You can get either one for under $20 and they work like a champ. I just put them in the line leading to the fluid bed. I drill a hole smaller than the tubing, cut the tubing at an angle and pull it through the PVC. If anyone wants/needs a HIGH quality flow control valve I've got 10 Ideal model 52 valves. I'll sell ya one with the fitting ya need. They are not cheap. $60. But if you want control you'll have it. They are amazing valves. That particular fluid bed has a 1/8" NPT fitting with a 1/8" barb. I drilled the hole slightly smaller than the fitting and screwed the fitting in. But drilling the hole slightly smaller than the tubing and pulling it through works very well. I built 100's of aquarium products using that method years ago. AFAIK they are still working just fine. It doesn't have to be complicated or fancy. That fluid bed base in the pictures takes two pieces of PVC. A threaded joint and a threaded plug. I was forced to go threaded because I could not find the right size glue in plug. Cups are easy to build. You can use the free Tyvek Priority mail envelopes for the Postal Service or paper bags. I have located a source on the porous plastic plate and MIGHT pick some up and build some cups if anyone is interested. The cups would run about $4.50 - $5 for a 3" cup if I was to build them. I could even build bases if there is interest.

As in most hobbies "kits" are a waste of money. 1. Figure out what jigs/molds/sinkers you use and need. Purchase those molds and supplies. 2. I'd NOT buy a Lee pot. Had multiple problems with the last three I purchased. A RCBS Pro Melt, while expensive, solves a lot of problems. Here's a couple of pictures of my fluid bed bases. They only require two pieces of PVC.

Do-It makes a mold that goes up to 1.5 ounces. I've got that mold.

Not to mention your doctor doesn't get money from the e-cig companies.

You don't even need a prescription anymore. Just pick up any of the available e-cigs.