LimpNoodle

https://www.barlowstackle.com/Eagle-Claw-Jig-HooksbrStyle-500BP-Lil-Nasty--P3244.aspx https://www.captainhookswarehouse.com/index.cfm?page=detail&hookid=1095&view=1 Tackle Warehouse is about the most expensive place to buy those.

The difference is they are using an electrostatic gun to apply the paint. That method gives a much thinner coat than a fluid bed.

The fluidizing sheet comes in a 36"x 36" piece and runs around $130 shipped. It seems the price has gone up. https://azpowder.com/hoppers/fluidizing-materials/

I've got most of the Do-It slab molds. Down here in Texas they call them slabs. All of them up to at least 1.5 ounces. I've got the 3178, 3177, 3289, 3291, 1203, 3407, 3485, and 3482. I wish that Do-It would come out with the 3482 shad spoon in a larger size. I powder paint them and on occasion put a decal on them. We fish them in several different ways. A slab is a very versatile lure.

That's a spin cast mold.

What fumes? At pouring temperature any fumes generated stay within fractions of an inch of the surface. As smalljaw said you have to get the lead REALLY hot before there's a problem. Don't lick the lead, don't eat or smoke while casting and you'll be fine. I use a specific mug with a handle to drink out of while casting. It sits away from the pot. The handle keeps my hand away from the drinking surface. I have my lead levels checked yearly and have no problems. One more thing, if you're one of those people that sand or wire brush your lead products WEAR A DAMN MASK.

If you live close to the border then I'd suggest getting a PO Box at a Post Office. Have stuff shipped there. Then you just have to drive down and pick it up.

Your best bet is going to be modifying the Shad Head rig. Use a Dremel and go slow. Once you have it modified to accept the screw lock then put plumbers putty in the cavity to prevent lead from flowing back and plugging up the screw lock. There's also the Worm Nose jig. http://store.do-itmolds.com/Worm-Nose-Jig-wScrew-Locbr116-18-316-14-516-38_p_559.html and the Ultra Minnow jig http://store.do-itmolds.com/Ultra-Minnow-JigbrSz-18-14-38-12-58brHk-604brCollar-Holder_p_1044.html Most any jig with a lead collar is easily modified to use the screw locks. I pour a lot of the Style H jigs in larger sizes with a screw lock. I just use the plumbers putty to hold the screw lock in place and prevent the lead from flowing back. http://store.do-itmolds.com/Style-H-Jig_c_387.html

You rotate it. Just pushing it over the coils doesn't add much extra hold.

What weights?

Wow. Nine year old thread. Let's try this. Which EXACT molds are you looking for? Tell us that and we'll help you out. You can modify most molds to use a screw lock.

You don't have to drill. Take a piece of .051 wire and place in in the mold. Now use a press or even a block of wood and hammer and compress the mold. I've modified several molds using that process. I'd use .051 wire as anything heavier is going to be very hard to work with. You can get a Twistech former that will handle .051. That will make the loops. Do your wire forming before you pour the sinker. It will be easier that way.

Why would you pay for chrome plating if you're going to cover it up? I just use a fluid bed to paint them. I use the chrome ones also. I just use high temp tape to cover the blade and dip the lead in the fluid bed.

O'hare Spring possibly. Either way if it's not a stock part you're going to need to invest a bunch of money. Mustang is 10k pieces on a non-stock item and O'hare is $250.

Not really...if you're talking about the electrostatic guns.

The biggest problem is that FLY tying vises are made to hold hooks. Not a lb of lead. I'd really have to second the suggestion of a standard vise.

Define heavy.

Link? Or it didn't happen.

I recently did 400+ slabs with it. I tried to dip but it took way to long to get the drips off. So I ended up brushing it on. Stuff works like a champ.

I only use RTV if I want the mold modified permanently. It's a pain to remove. If I want it modified temporarily I use this stuff. https://www.rotometals.com/casting-retainer-putty-1-pound/

I'm just a home player too. I'm sold on the KBS. I have also used Solarez with good success.

I've tried to do what you're about to attempt. I ended up using KBS as a top coat. I just did 400+ slabs that way. Powder coat, paint, top coat.

1/2 and 1 lbs isn't bulk. 55 lbs at a time is a box and that's bulk. There are many sources for powder paint and a simple Google search will return more results than you can click in a day. I like the powders from Prismatic myself.

Both Worth and Lakeland can screen print directly on the blades. Beyond that contact WTP and see what they can do for ya. http://www.wtp-inc.com/home/

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_4_Fluxing.htm