LimpNoodle

I don't do a lot of jigs. Right now it's all tail spinners and slabs. I've got some in the oven right now. Here's a pic of some tail spinners I did a couple of weeks ago. The only thing you're not seeing there are the shimmer glass and the clear. The shimmer glass is a top coat with a lot of glitter.

Pretty much all of them will. I've heard that Dormant powders don't work well but I've never tried any of them. Some of my favorite paints are the Pearlescent white from Rosey's, Power Bait from Prismatic, Shimmer Glass from Prismatic, heavy silver from Prismatic, clear starburst from Rosey's.

The last place I buy powder from is Pro Tec. Rosey's and Prismatic is where I get almost all my powder paint.

You might have to order the Priority Mail Tyvek envelopes. Not all offices have them in stock. They're still free. I got half a sheet of 3/16th porous plastic plate and have been using that to build my cups. Works quite well and the cost per cup is about $2.75 for 3" cups. I also use a high quality air pump. It has four outlets and is currently driving four 3" and one 2" bed. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is you can cut those powders with a good clear and it will lighten them up quite a bit. I use the pearl white from Rosey's and have no problem with it out of the bag. I use a high gloss black from the same source and have to cut it with about 20% clear to get it to work like I want.

I'm disabled and retired. Just to keep sane I spend a lot of time at the lure crafting bench. I've got to have 75 lbs of slab baits in the boat at a minimum. I'm always improving my product. I dug out my airbrushes the other day and have decided to do a lot more with them. I know I can do some pretty amazing things with the brush on a slab style bait. The other thing i pour a lot of is tail spinners. Again I'm going to start airbrushing those. It's all about filling my time during the day. I've got a group of about 12 people that I fish with on a pretty regular basis. These guys are crazy enough to want to buy my baits. As long as I can cover my costs I'm happy. In my position my time is free. However I don't cut corners on my baits. I've got a friend who's in the commercial lure business. I do some prototypes for him on occasion. This keeps me in powder paint and decals. He has the same problem with wannabee pro's and such. He has a small pro staff of known guides in the area and that's good enough for him. He's branching out into black bass baits. He can and does make a superior product to the big names at a much lower cost. It's easy to do when there's no middlemen. Face it a bass jig is not all that complicated and most of us here know what the product costs are. There's absolutely no reason that a weedless bass jig should cost $5 other than multiple markups for everyone involved. By cutting out a couple of layers of middlemen he's able to sell at a much lower end price to the consumer. If I were to be stupid enough to go into business and sell my product it would be at a price that most fishermen wouldn't pay.

If you can throw a .024 ounce lure you have to be using a fly rod. That's 24 thousandths.

You've already asked this question and it's been answered to the best ability of the forum. Here's a link to the original question and it's responses. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31449-powder-paint-color-recipes-for-lead-headed-jigs/

9/0 hooks $0.25-26 each. 5 ounces of lead $0.60 Materials cost = $0.90 rounded up. Labor 20% $0.018 Cost = $1.10 wholesale $2.20, retail $4.39 Add in the additional cost of lead for the other two sizes. 8 ounce would be around $5.99 retail. The real question is what are they paying now and what does the competition sell them for?

Small amounts Lure Parts Online or Barlow if you want gold plated. If you need large amounts Hagen's, Worth or Lakeland.

I agree with smalljaw. If it had been done with powder paint and a gun it would be a smooth finish. I've painted blades with the gun in the past and as long as you don't have a textured paint you end up with a smooth finish.

As posted on another forum you're going to have to post pictures or links. Those are NOT colors of powder paint. Those are marketing colors.

Yes. That's why I suggested them.

Hagen's Worth Lakeland

I buy powder paint by the pound. Cost ranges from $6 a pound up to around $27 for some colors. A pound of powder will coat a lot of jig heads. Most of the stuff I'm doing is 1/2 ounce or larger jig heads, heavy tail spins, heavy under spins, slab lures up to 2 ounce. Even with the large stuff a pound of powder will do hundreds. That's dipping. If I used an electrostatic gun I could double that. The durability of powder paint is awesome. It's almost impossible to chip it. It doesn't react with soft plastics either.

That's not a problem for those who make and sell chatter baits.

The material they are made of is going to have a big effect. A thicker aluminum blade could well be lighter than a thinner stainless steel blade. Also I think your measurements are a bit off. I'm very sure I can't stack five chatter bait blades on top of each other and have it be a 1" stack.

Wow. I find powder coating is pretty quick. You're going to have to pour the thing no matter what. I use a hot plate and frying pan to pre-heat my product. All I have to do once it's hot is swish and hang, Then when I get done I load the oven and bake. I've airbrushed spinner blades in the past and it's MUCH slower. The only thing a airbrush does is open up the creativity. I'm going to set mine up soon so I can do some things with slabs. White on one side and chartreuse on the other.

I use the pink from Rosey's and never put white under it.

I actually like Cascade/Olympic blades for spinners. Lots of thump. Second choice would be a good quality french blade. I'm particular about who I purchase my blades from as they are not all equal.

Not much difference between that and the current 3332 available from Do-it.

Not worth it at all. Battery lead is contaminated with all sorts of stuff. The big battery manufacturers recycle it but the process is a bit more involved than simply smelting the lead.

You can use any jig you wish. Right now it seems there's only one company stamping blades. I have a good feeling that this is about to change. Best way to assemble them is to use a flat eye hook and a single connector. My buddy in the tackle business is going through about 400-500 baits a week and has the assembly down to a science.

There are basically three companies that produce brass lure bodies in the US. Hagen's, Worth and Lakeland. The heaviest I've seen is in the range of .5 - .6 ounces and those are going too run you anywhere from $0.65 to $1.20 per body if you buy by the thousand.

Haven't seen them in that size and just the thought of the price makes me nervous. IMHO if you need that kind of weight look at lead.

I've used every tool on the market. The Twistech is the best available. I prefer it over the much more expensive Hagen. I have six different styles of blades, in sizes from 0 to 8 for building spinners. One thing you haven't covered is spinner bodies. Are you going to use lead? Brass? What weights? I prefer to build my smaller spinners on .026 wire. I only go to .035 for spinners for larger fish, salmon, steelhead, hybrid bass, stripers. I also use .031 wire for mid sized spinners. I have several sizes of clevises. You should match clevis size to blade size. Too small or too large a clevis can hinder blade movement. If there are commercial spinners you use and want to emulate tell us what those spinners are and we can give you more detailed info.