eastman03

@CoreyH Just so we are clear, that is not me in that youtube video! That is above my level of skill, the pictures are mine.

I bought this exact bbq rotisserie kit and it works great for me. I like the little weight that you can move around to counter balance if you need it. This one easily turns my big muskie lures. I believe most lure turners are 3-8 rpm. https://www.amazon.ca/Grill-Spot-Universal-Rotisserie-Grills/dp/B076X4PXK1 If you are making lures like crankbaits with lips, I would highly recommend a design like I made. It's super simple, and all you have to do is clamp the lip onto the wood, compared to the style where you have to suspend the lure between two wheels. But it can get as complicated as you want! My next design will integrate some sort of lure holder so I don't ever have to hold the lure kinda like this video (@ 1:50, this video is amazing btw!).

Hmm strange, works for me too.

Yea lots of options out there and it totally depends on what you are making and how many. Either way, it seems reading the lure forums every type of topcoat has its fans and detractors, and every method has it's own difficulties. As jcromerangler said, if you make lots of baits, KBS is probably the way to go, it seems like a great product. For me, making a handful of large muskie lures a year for myself, epoxy is the way to go (cheaper, availability near to me, no storage issues, great finish and strength). Getting a perfect finish with any epoxy can have its difficulties, just do your research and get good at the one you choose. There will always be a learning curve, and that might mean some bad finishes or storage issues or whatever. Just keep at it! @bobp yea I hear you about the heat, it really speeds up curing time. With a bar top epoxy like Etex, the working time to begin is so long that even heated (slightly), it still gives me at least 10-15 min to brush on, and that is after letting it "rest" after mixing for a few minutes. Also, I don't mean to get this way for off topic, but this was an interesting article I stumbled across a while back. It is an interesting read, and it was the reason I was primarily against thinning epoxy with chemicals (even though it is totally possible). Also instead of warming the epoxy, they suggest warming the wood. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/thinning-west-system-epoxy/

Why would you thin the epoxy? Just curious. I use epoxy as a sealer before I paint, and as a finish and have never thinned it. If I want it a bit "thinner" I will warm it up a bit. I feel like adding any chemical to a carefully formulated epoxy will change or possibly ruin it's characteristics. Maybe I'm wrong.

I've never used the stuff, so I'm personally not much help. Most guys seem to say 2 coats gives you a higher gloss finish. The major issue with it is storage! Watch Jeckyll baits on youtube, she is a pro at using it and has a good tutorial about storing it.

Yea I'm not sure it's the best, but I do the exact same as @Hillbilly voodoo

Most likely white cedar. https://blog.history.in.gov/tag/creek-chub-bait-company/

Seriously, blows my mind. haha It seems so obvious when you think about it. But I've never really given this topic much thought. I've never really tried to make a neutrally buoyant lure. Great topic!

Mind blown! It makes sense when you think about it.

Really Vodkaman? Is that actually the case? You could very well be right. But there is some wood that is quite buoyant. And some wood that is naturally less. Like cedar is very buoyant. I think I’d need to make it much heavier than an equal maple lure to sink at the same rate. That blows my mind if you are correct!

The tig wire I use is 308 I believe. Not exactly sure that that refers to.

Fine Mark, i'll take it and throw it all day! 5oz would be on the lighter side of most lures in my box! Could you make the same lure of a something more dense like maple, and add much less ballast? I suppose it still might end up on the heavy side. Plastic and microbaloons might be the way to go. It would be easier to reproduce and play with the weights.

Typical muskie baits seem to use .051" wire. .062" is another common size. I get my wire from stainless steel tig welding rods. I'm able to twist the wire with a drill up to .062. Maybe your wire is harder drawn than the stuff I'm using.

@Big epp That's what I use it for as well. I don't do a lot of carving, I will use my belt sander, or dremel, or router to do most of the shaping. But it is nice to use long strips of sandpaper to smooth everything out. The tape is my quick, cheap solution.

I usually have the bill taped up, but away from the body of the lure. You don't want tape under the epoxy, speaking from experience, it's hard to remove then. I usually apply carefully to the bill/in the slot and wipe off any excess with a cloth. Most epoxy, even 5 min, gives you some working time. So align everything and wipe off the excess. As far as kbs and the hook hangers, that will be answered by someone else hopefully! Jeckyll baits on youtube uses KBS, check out her videos on how to use and store it properly.

This would be more for a painting stand, but it is such a great idea. Also, it would work best for crankbaits. Starting at 11:30.

Cheap soft jaws = lots of layers of duct tape for me lol