Mad Moose Baits

Here is the paint from Michael's. Grabbed some on my break lol

Before or after heat curing?

Thanks for the help, guys! I wasn't mad, I know this was gonna be a hard one to answer. So no worries there!

Apdriver can you show us the bits you used? I am wanting to drill some holes for eyes in a master so I can make some molds. a nice flat bottom would be great. I have a Dremel and Dremel drill press.

Using TJ's spray gun, how much powder paint are you guys using to do , let's say 100 3/8 oz spinnerbaits? Sorry if it has been covered but couldn't find it

If that is a "hijack" then keep it up. That is great info!

Guys I really appreciate the feedback! Looks like I have another build to do!

Thanks a ton, Canuck! Still deciding on electric vs propane on melting.

I plan on making a "hood" over my lead pot area and have it blow out the window through a duct syste, I plan on using a ceiling fan, like you would see in the bathroom. As far as the fan goes, how many cubic feet a minute should I aim for? As always, thanks in advance!

Quick followup: I looked at the details of the motor I used. It will be difficult to put a dimmer switch on since it is a single phace capacitor start motor. That being said I can control the rpm's with the drive pulley size and add an idler pulley to maintain tension.

Well I have it built. It is spinning at 1200 rpms, so way too fast. The plan is now to put in a dimmer switch to adjust the speed. There is a slight wobble thanks to a slightly bent shaft. But for having no real skills when it comes to building stuff like this I am happy. The machine

Only 1psi? that's crazy! Going to check out TJs

Which blaster do you use? I tried a min air etcher from Harbor Freight and it sucked lol

Electrostatic VS Fluid Bed VS airbrushing with a mini sandblaster 1) which gives the most consistent coating? I know if I just dip a hot lure into the paint with no fluid bed it seems I get too much on them and get some runs with baking. Also this method really "coagulates" in the eye recesses making the 3d eyes not want to fit 2) which is best for batches of lets say 25 plus? 3) Any tips on keeping the wires free of powder? I thought of having a clamp that holds them by the hook and another that holds them by the wire, thus protecting the wire. Over this wonderful, consistent finish I would use a light coat of epoxy (helps hold eyes on too) I think with any method I can work out doing multiple lures and can figure out some reclamation methods for overspray. I just really want a consistent finish.

Ok that is very very helpful. The main mold ring looks to be about 1 3/4" high and the bottom piece goes 1/4" reducing the depth to 1 1/2" the spacer allows for the mold to be 1" and then the top lid compresses it all. Thanks a ton dlaery!

Thanks, that is really helpful!

And this is the DIY video that gave me the inspiration/madness.

Here is my "artist's concept" drawing lol

So I am clear: the interior of the can is 1" so the mold rubber is compressed by that 1/4" disc part of the lid?

This is true.

This is the frame to make (vulcanize) the mold, not the part that spins the mold and you pour the lead in. We may be talking about two different things

The pictures I have seen of mold cans, the lid has kind of a "lip" or disc that presses down on the mold inside the can providing the pressure on the mold rubber.

I am building my own centrifugal casting setup. 12" molds. My question is on the mold ring/can: for a 12"x1" how much does the "lip" on the lid of the can go into the cavity? It looks like about 1/4" to me. I have a local machine shop that can make me a can for a fraction of what I would pay for "the real thing". The parts being cast are spinnerbaits and buzzbaits, so a 1" mold should do the trick. My plan is to put mold in place and then the lid using large CClamps to add the pressure. I look forward to the replies and thank you in advance. Oh ....I am going DIY due to limited funds and let's face it, if we weren't DIY types we wouldn't be here.

and it is sold