JaguarJim

I agree with Bob, having been doing model planes for years, i"ve seen batches that yellowed, and batches that didn't yellow, and I know some of those batches were mixed dead on perfect, and some weren't, also I know most of us don't just leave a box of crankabaits out in the sun all day, whatever yellowing effects there are I haven't seen them yet, both my brother and I have specific crankbaits we fish year round, every weekend and haven't seen those yellow yet, knocked the finish off of them, but thats another issue.

Richard, thanks so much for the info on the Bob smith, I will be getting slow cure 30 min tomorrow for the next batch of baits. The main reason I was using the 20min finish cure was because it was thin, and I was trying to keep the baits as balanced as possible, but like you pointed out they probably need 2 coats if I stick with 20min, I don't mind only getting through a couple of baits at a time as long as they turn out perfect, last nights disaster was far from that, so I learned my lesson. If I stick with 20 finish cure, 2 coats, if I go with 30min I can do fewer baits at a time, but have a more durable finish that sounds like its easier to apply. thanks so much for the tips guys, you're saving me tons of frustration, and keeping me from ruining baits. Ben, thanks for the info about the brush, and the method of keeping the bubbles out, to be honest I've been using just plain old throw away brushes like I would with model airplain applications, it makes sense though, after all I'm not using a 5 dollar airbush with a can of propelent, so why should I skimp on the details of my finish brush. again, many thank you's fellas, you're saving my ass!! Also double trouble, I have no doubts that the bait turner is well worth it, I just panicked when I saw all my epoxy run off the backs of my baits. again, thanks everybody!! Jim.

Ben, I suppose maybe going to the slow cure 30min instead of the 20min finish cure could be a sloution?? thanks again for the insight. Jim.

You fellas are right, you can get it at any hobby shop. Called my brother to find out what the MFG was on the bottles we are currently using, and it is indeed bob smith finish cure 20 Min. So, what did I do wrong if a lot of other guys are using this product, but its not running off their baits? like I said never had a problem until I put the baits on a drying wheel.

Thanks Ben. I will try the bob smith! is it available at any local hardware store? also about the bubbles in epoxy. The stuff I'm currently using (model airplane finish epoxy) never bubbles, thats one thing I was perplexed about when I've read some of the post on here about the bubbles, and guys having problems with it, I never have. But, obviously I'm having problems now Bob's reply has me thinking that it is in fact too thin. thanks again! Jim.

Thanks Bob. The model expoxy is two part, and it is thin, I would say in beteen honey & maple syrup. so maybe I need to switch to a thicker epoxy and that would be the end of this newfound problem. thanks again Bob.

thanks for the reply Ben. I did think of that, that maybe it was too much at once. Usually when I did hang the baits to "drip dry" the excess that ran off the back was only about the size of 3/16" dot, or none at all, most of the time its just a drop on the rear hook hanger, and like I said as we looked the baits over while on the wheel last night, the epoxy had not "run" to another location on the bait, it just was all coming off the backs, maybe if I put the baits on the rottisserie parallel to the rod itself? I don't know, I'm new to the drying wheel, and now I question even using it thanks for the help.! Jim.

Ok, been on here a couple months and have been reading a lot of what other guys do for base, finish, and topcoats. I have been using createx for my base & colors for the past 2 years, and have never had any problems, I always blast it with a hair dryer in between coats because createx says to heat cure the paint on the bottles, maybe I'm doing that wrong, and this problem with my top coat is based off of that. I use a finish coat epoxy made for model airplanes bought at the local hobby shop for my topcoat, tried the CS coatings vinyl coat when I first started painting and it made everything spider crack under the topcoat, so that went in the trash. the finish cure epoxy sets in about 30 mins so I usually have time to do about 4 baits for each batch of epoxy that is mixed. I've always just hung them by the bill and let the excess run off, then trim it while its stil soft, I know sounds half assed, but it works all the baits I do turn out great with no high spots or anything of that nature. So we come the problem, I've been doing 20-40 baits at a time when I'm doing my topcoat, my brother helps and we're able to get them finished in about 3-4hrs, I saw that a lot of guys use a drying wheel or a rotisserie of some type to dry the topcoats and keep them even, so my brother & I built one last week out of a bbq rotisserie. after we topcoated all the baits last night, within 1 hr of them being done, we noticed that the all the epoxy was running off the backs of the baits, it wasn't pooled anywhere else on the baits but now we'll have to sand and re-topcoat the baits, is there a better way to do this, or a different product to use?? is this a common thing when using a drying wheel I see guys using devcon 2 ton & ETex a lot, but I'm unsure of how thick either of those products are. Also as a side note we used small spring clamps to fasten the bills to the rotisserie, and the rotisserie spins at around 4 RPM's, any help would be great. thanks!!