bflp
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Everything posted by bflp
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Is he sending you a sample of the standard Fish Stinkem or a different, special scent?
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I was strangely just searching this last night, and in another post someone said the Spike-It "Fish Stinkum" was close to a powerbait smell. CarolinaMike, do you know if that scent is the same scent that Berkeley uses, or just similar?
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I'm glad you asked, I was about to post a similar topic. I have also found that if I put the baits in a bag before they fully cure, they retain that smell for a while. Do other brands of plastics do that? I've noticed it with LC's plastic. I don't think I had that with MF's, but I don't really remember.
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I tried craft glitter my first time too. It couldn't take the heat and melted, looked pretty weird. As Patrick said, the proper glitter is cheap, better off just sticking with that.
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Please pay attention to the dates of the threads you are replying to. This thread hasn't been active for nearly 4 years.
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Gy Designed An Interesting Trailer And It Gave Me An Idea....
bflp replied to Senkosam's topic in Soft Plastics
Looks good SenkoSam. Coincidentally, I was designing (in my head at least) a very similar trailer to that. Something with thicker, straight appendages. Mines going to look a little different, but overall very similar. Good job! -
I tried out vertical dipping with the injector, and it actually worked out really well. I was able to dip the tubes without using a lot of excess plastic. When the injector started to get low, I just pushed the injector syringe up and was able to keep going. The downfall is that you can only dip one rod at a time, but for someone who is more concerned about saving plastic versus production quantity, this seems like a decent way to do it.
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Check out the "Soft Plastic Cookbook" thread pinned at the top of this forum.
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Use a small tool to carve a tiny channel from the tail section to the edge of the mold. Make it big enough to let air out, but small enough to prevent plastic from flowing through it. I usually use some tiny clay modelling tools to carve the channel. You generally only need to carve a channel in one piece of the two part mold. You usually want it to run from the furthest point from your pour spout to the edge.
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Does anyone know what tool Bojon was using in that second video to split the tails? This topic piqued my interests. I don't know if anyone has seen this page, but I found it when Googling about dipping tubes: http://www.joefishin.com/TubeMaking.html He says the vertical dipping wastes plastic, and he is going to try horizontal dipping. I'm thinking maybe vertical dipping won't waste as much plastic if I use an injector to hold the plastic, since it is very narrow, and then just take the nozzle off and use that to dip the tubes vertically. Thoughts?
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I think that is true of humans as a whole. Look at all of the technological and scientific advancements that have been made by just a few visionaries. Most people consume, very few invent, innovate, or create.
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I just searched for Andre Moore as the inventor in Google's patent search.
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Here is the patent. http://www.google.com/patents/USD515176?dq=Andre+Moore
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But if your bait is the same density as another bait, it should have the same sink rate as the other bait, regardless of water temperature(given the same materials).
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Hand Pouring Equipment Questions From A New Guy
bflp replied to smalliebiggs's topic in Soft Plastics
I'd recommend using a high temp silicone cup over a pyrex cup personally. I find it much easier to pour accurately, and there's no risk of having it explode. The cup itself gets a little hotter than the handle of a pyrex cup, so wear good gloves. -
I think the key with open pour molds isn't worrying whether the flat side effects the action, but designing the lure so that the flat side enhances the action. When starting out, You don't need to buy expensive molds. Start out with some home made plaster of Paris molds. You can make open pour or two piece injection molds out of pop. I usually make the sprew and runner out of clay(without baking, the you can re-use the clay after the pop sets) There is tons of info on this site about making pop molds, have a look around.
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I agree. I just did this, worked out very well.
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The keep america fishing website is now saying the Maine government has directed a study be done on the effects of soft plastics on the environment, and report on it in January 2014. I don't want to see soft plastics banned, but I'm interested in what that study finds.
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My friend has one. Said he had issues with electro-static discharge, and the motor controller case was not very good. But once he fixed those he said its not a bad machine.
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Have you tried baking the clay, and then sanding it down once its hard? I have the same issues with pop molds, but I can't bake the clay due to the hard mold, but since you are using silicone that won't be an issue.
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Nicely said Mike. I keep looking for news on this bill, because I read it was supposed to be discussed this week, but all the news articles online are over a week old. Not sure what the current status of the bill is.
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I thought I read somewhere that using a release agent on the Silicone molds helps them last longer. I can't seem to track down where I read that though, sorry.
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Except the bill is being presented by Representative Paul Davis, who is a Republican.
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2:1 ratio is what I use for my POP molds. They usually end up on the thick side and I need to add a little additional water. When I'm mixing the POP, I always think it is thinner than it really is. It pours much thicker than it mixes, if that makes sense. Maybe you had the right mixture and it just looked too thin.
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I have only used Alumisol and MF so far. I found the Alumisol seems to smell less while cooking, but the finished baits seem to smell more when compared to MF. I can't really comment on softness because I was using Super Soft MF. There's nothing wrong with alumisol, I made some nice stick baits with it.
