Apdriver

What are you pouring your lead with? Bottom pour? If so, you might try ladle pouring with a fast pour. Almost like a dump. Sometimes that can help on hard to pour molds and cavities.

Vent would help, I’m sure. Got a pic?

Maybe you can find a different colorant that will work for you. There’s nothing like putting in a bunch of work on a laminate and having it bleed.

Pretty sure you just got their answer.

Here you go Tiderunner. They still have it and emailed me about it this morning. Here’s the link. https://store.do-itmolds.com/search.asp?keyword=91253

No. That’s not the product that I have. I sent them an email asking if the still handle the UV powder. It’s a light yellowish powder and I didn’t find it in their store. When I find out, I’ll reply back.

I have it also. Poured a bunch but my boats down and haven’t fished them either. It pours really well. I don’t think I had one bad cast out of it. The mold is designed to fish a small minnow type bait using Forward Facing Sonar. It will fit completely inside the bait with the only thing exposed is the hook point\bend and the hook eye aft of the nose on the bait. It’s mostly an open water technique.

I’ll take a look at the 7247 and the 114 but I’m not crazy about the Gami prices. I had enough 2831’s left to get me by for now. Luremaking suggested a Mustad 3205 as a replacement but it does have a shorter shank than the 2831’s. Really need that longer shank so thanks for your suggestion.

Need an email address.

Bad news. They sold out within a few months of being discontinued. Like you said, that was back in 2016.

Thank you, Ted. Calling them now.

I needed some hooks for a mold I modified and to my surprise, it seems these are no longer available. At least I couldn’t find them. It’s the Eagle Claw L2831BP. I think Mustad also made the hook and their number is 32831 or at least it was. It’s a 90 degree jig hook. I’m pretty sure this hook had a little longer shank and it’s a round bend hook. Does anyone know where to get any or can anyone offer a replacement on these? TIA…..

I use the do it uv blast powder. I know there’s some other uv product out there but the powder works well for me as it can be added to all my mediums. Plastic, topcoat, and you can even put it in powder paint. Over the last few days, I reminded myself how very little you have to use. I juiced a little topcoat and added way too much. I prolly only needed a pinhead size amount so be careful with it. I think you will like the results and for me that is more and better bites. When they’re on it the fish just hammer a bait that has it.

You have mail.

You need sunlight to activate the properties of the uv, at least in my eyes that’s when I can see it the most. So, if you fish those baits at night with the glow it’s prolly not going to help. My catch rate using the uv has been good for both the Smallies and largemouth. Pro blue and uv work well for the smallmouth as does the green pumpkins for largemouth and smallmouth.

I make some baits with UV. Personally, I like it and think the bass do too. It only takes a pinch or a smidge in a cup of plastic so don’t over do it. Another thing I will do is add it to my topcoat when covering eyes on my leadheads. Works very well.

No hazmat in plastisol that I know of, Chris. Also, any that I’ve received did not have hazmat stickers.

I certainly understand if it’s not needed, it’s not needed. TY….

These are amazing jigs, for sure and I’m sure to use your technique. I certainly appreciate you sharing your experience. I have to ask. Why do you recommend not using glue?

I haven’t used the silicone flare part but looks like you could put that part on your hook shank and hand tie right over it if you’re a hand tier.

I heat to 350 then let cool to 320 before I add glitter and start injecting. If you have troubles with denting, even cooler than that will help down to 280 or so. Cooler than that things get sticky and it becomes difficult. If you put glitter in at 350 you run a risk of it washing out and curling. After the initial heat to 350, no need to heat over 320 again. It only induces problems with the color and glitter.

I’m hoping someone that knows this stuff will come along and offer some help. The only thing I would know to do is uninstall it, reinstall it and make sure to turn it on in settings, safari…….. I took a snapshot of the name and logo just so you could see which adblocker it was as I noticed several in the AppStore.

No problem at all. Glad to help. Hope others that are getting the pop ups get some relief!!!!

I have a presto pot and stirring system with PID temp controller and when I need to work a larger volume I use it. That said, I know plastic guys have used hot burners, stoves, hot pots, etc. to heat plastic and you must stir or it will burn. I do use a heat plate to keep small batches hot while I’m working so I can do multiple shots without reheating in micro. Heat plate on high and set your Pyrex or Anchor right on it. Never had any troubles. Personally, I haven’t use a hot burner to heat but wouldn’t be afraid to if that’s what I had. Start with a gallon first. Use safety precautions(ventilation) and a thermometer.

For the IOS Safari users, I found a workaround. Thank you all for your responses and suggestions. Go to App Store and search Adblockplus for Safari. Free app and the app symbol is a stop sign with ABP in the sign. It’s free for download. After it’s downloaded, go to settings, Safari, extensions, and enable adblockplus. TU is now pop up and add free for me.