Apdriver
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Everything posted by Apdriver
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I use the "Weedless Style S Bass Jig" from Do It. Their part number is 3316. I prefer to not use a split ring but open the hook eye and install the blade. I like the Mustad 32798 as my hook and prefer the 4/0 or 5/0. No weed guard for this application and use a Teflon base hole pin and position it to just plug the weedguard slot at the edge of the cavity. If you want more pics and detail PM me. Here's a pic of finished jig.
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Mark, I have the same problem with those big gloves. Just not nimble enough for me. Here's what I've been using and have been really satisfied with them. Cheap too. http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Coated-Gloves-Crinkle-Pattern/dp/B000PHIHQM
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I know this is a tardy reply to your question. I have this mold and have never had the problem you're talking about. Instead of breaking the sprue, I use a sprue cutter, then dress with a file before I powder coat. It's not necessary to dress them but I do.
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If I had to make some of these, here's what I would do. I would take a Teflon pin and drill a hole in it just big enough for that wire to go through it doubled. Lay it in whatever weedless jig mold you want that wire in and pour it. Make sure the Teflon pin stops right at the edge of the cavity for a clean look. You might need to seperately the wire just a little below your Teflon pin just a bit so the weedguard will hold good in the jighead after it's poured. Never tried it but believe it would work.
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I've made inline trout spinners out of the smaller diameter wire.
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There are a lot of variables that can affect your pours but percent of pure lead is certainly one of them. I try to keep my pours at 50/50 pure lead to wheel weight lead and have good success with it. Luckily, I have a good supply of the pure from old lead sheeting from an deconstructed X-ray booth. If I start getting incomplete pours, I'll throw in a chunk of the pure and flux. If your not fluxing, that can help too. I use parrifin wax. Cheap and available at the grocery.
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Opens for me using IOS. No problems.
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How To Get The Skirts Colors Placed Exactly How You Want?
Apdriver replied to aaarneson's topic in Wire Baits
Well, since LPO owns this site, you can get them here. http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Collars/01-Regular-Skirt-Collars.html You have to make your skirt from skirt material tabs using a skirt making tool. The skirt collar is used in conjunction with the tool and tabs. The collar holds it all together. The boss collar is just a name LPO's competitor uses for some of their stuff. After we get it tied on the jig, we cut the collar off. -
I was in the hunt for an alternative to the 630/635 in a black nickel for a couple pro do it molds. I dug around in my hooks and had a Mustad 32831 BLN that fit in those molds. The only problem I saw was the eye on the 32831 was a little small. I was able to close the mold by hand, though. I didn't pour it yet cause I just received these mold and wanted to use the drop out release on them. Ordered it today.
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You can take a regular jig mold, I use an Arkie style, and put a Teflon pin in the weedguard slot right up to the jig cavity and pour it. This will give you a jig without a weedguard. You can then take center punch and open the eye on your hook enough to fit the blade. Then close the eye with a pair of pliers. Now your blade is attached without a split ring.
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Messed up the pics. Here's the other half.
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Picked these two molds up recently and they call for the Eagle Claw 630 or 635 90 degree jig hook. I prefer a black nickel as opposed to the bronze hook. Have read some guys don't like this hook as the shank is small and bends easily. Can anyone suggest a replacement in a BN and maybe stronger shank hook that will fit? Thanks in advance. Bill
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It looks like a nice piece of equipment. That being said, Frank brings up a great point. I knew there had to be a reason it went the way of the do do bird.
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It looks to me like a blending block would be more efficient in the clean out cause you can take it apart. On this part, you would have to wait til it cooled sufficiently to harden the plug and pull it out. I think it would take more time.
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I used some of the harbor freight stuff and didn't like it. Colors faded (yellow and red) and it ran like crazy. It didn't take me long to just order what I needed from Columbia.
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How To Get The Skirts Colors Placed Exactly How You Want?
Apdriver replied to aaarneson's topic in Wire Baits
^^^^^^This is how I do it too. I just started hand tying though. The guys that are good at it can place the tabs and strands right where they want. My fingers are too fat and my patience too thin:-) -
Me too Mark. Looking at the OP's link, it doesn't look like flourocarbon to me. I'm thinking something else. So what if the fish can see it. They can definitely see that jazzy skirt we put on!!!
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+1 on the bands. If you really want flourocarbon leader, you can go here and get some. Gives size diameter in mm too. Made my eyes water a little when I saw the price. I'm thinking you may could use a cheaper material. Maybe the smallest diameter weedeater cord or a large diameter mono. http://www.meltontackle.com/products/seaguar-blue-label-fluorocarbon-leader.html
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Have you tried moving your clams around? I'd use a couple C clamps on it and experiment with placement and clamp pressure.
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If you go to Jann's there is a component sizing chart on their website. Windows based and you'll need to print it out for correct sizing. You need the lure in hand to use the chart. Let's you know what size things are. For your wire size, a set of calipers is what I use.
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I just take a Teflon pin and place it right at the edge of the cavity so the lead doesn't run into the weed guard channel. Works great.
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^^^^^^This^^^^^^. Don't waste your time. Things are too hot to protect the fragile weed guard. Pour and paint with the Teflon pins. Pull the pins before you bake your jigs. Then epoxy or glue the weed guards.
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I have a coffee grinder that has a duty cycle and it will shut off automatically til the motor cools on it. If you're grinding a lot of salt and it quits, may want to let it cool before you throw it out.
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Here's another option for stirrers. They're on sale now too. Also other parts and supplies for injection, Temperature Control, plastic, colorant, etc. http://www.shopbaitjunkys.com/Baitjunkys-Pro-Parts_c_50.html
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I've made many a bait doing it just that way. Mounted on a piece of 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood I had lying around. C clamped to the kitchen table. Works good. Put the wood on top of the table. You can even put a dish towel or something underneath it to protect the finish of the furniture.
