Kasilofchrisn

A simple google search brings this up but I agree with all of the points listed. others might not agree and thats fine. to each their own. But I much much a bobbin when I'm tying jigs! A tying bobbin's primary advantage is that it allows for precise tension control on your tying thread, ensuring smooth and even wraps around the hook, which significantly improves the quality and durability of your jig while making the tying process more accurate and efficient; it also holds the spool of thread in place, preventing it from rolling around and maintaining consistent tension when you release the thread from your hand. Key benefits of using a tying bobbin: Tension control: The bobbin mechanism allows you to adjust the tension on the thread to suit the material you're wrapping, preventing breaks and ensuring even wraps around the hook. Accurate wrapping: By maintaining consistent tension, the bobbin helps you wrap the thread more precisely and neatly around the hook. Reduced thread waste: A bobbin prevents the thread from tangling or slipping off the spool, minimizing waste. Improved jig quality: Precise thread placement with a bobbin leads to a better-looking and more durable jig. Ease of use: A good quality bobbin allows for smooth thread delivery, making the jig tying process easier and more enjoyable. Different sizes for different needs: Depending on the jig size and material, you can choose a bobbin that best suits your requirements.

I'm with Jig Man and just buy mine locally. For me it's a necessity especially for hair jigs and stuff like that. I don't think a guy could really tie hair jigs without a bobbin. Different jigs require different thread. IMHO The heavier denier is too much for smaller crappie size jigs, say 140 denier on a crappie jig. But, for bigger stuff a heavier denier is better, say 220 denier. I usually use Sally Hansen hard as nails on the threads just for extra insurance after whip finishing. I'd hate to have a jig come apart on me.

No, custom molds are not hard to have made and, I do own my share of them. But they are not cheap. A brand new Do-It mold is $56 and can ship today. A custom mold is easily $180+ and will likely take a few months to arrive. Plus the viper head still does not meet his minimum requirements that he listed in the first post. There's no keeper for a grub tail, and there's no eye sockets. Why compromise on those, and pay 4× as much money for the viper head? I sure wouldn't. There are several Do-It molds that do meet those criteria at a much better price point. Or a stock mold from Shawn Collins eBay store that while spendier will still ship within a weeks time! But, I didn't come here to argue. You're obviously stuck on this viper head being the best mold ever. It's not one I would ever use and does not meet the OP's minimum requirements. But you do you! Have a great day and good fishing to you!

But, where can a guy buy this mold? That's the part you seem to be ignoring! If the mold isn't sold anywhere then it doesn't do him any good. What good is a jig he can't get a mold for? This is a tackle making forum. One where we buy the molds and such to make things ourselves! Unless the viper head mold is sold somwhere it's NOT going to work for him!

Yes, but it still doesn't meet the criteria the OP is looking for. It has nothing to hold a grubtail on as he stated was also a requirement. And as you previously stated it is not available for him to purchase. So where is he going to find a mold to make the viper heads for himself? Sure Shawn Collins makes some that are similar. But, not exactly the same and they are not cheap. Spend $180+ for a custom mold? Or perhaps a $56-$75 mold from Do-It, Hilts, or Lil' Mac that also accepts a grubtail via wire keeper or lead barb?One from those manufacturers that you can purchase off the shelf at anytime would be a better choice IMHO!

While it would be easy enough to get a mold maker to replicate the viper head I don't believe it meets the criteria the OP is looking for. Not only is it not readily available to purchase its not a universal jig. Meaning it is not designed to also accept a grubtail as he posted about. While I do own a few bucktail molds I don't tie or fish a lot of bucktails so I'm probably not the best guy to recommend a mold for them.

It's not about the depth. It's about holding in the tide. We can have close to 40 feet of tide differential from high to low during the years worst tides. You need heavier weights to hold in that kind of current. Most days 8 oz isn't going to hit bottom except during slack tide. Some days you can't hold bottom with a 3 pound cod sinker.

I would look at the Novastone colors shift powder paints from Barlows. They are awesome paints!

So, I called bait plastics and a nice lady told me they actually do ship to Alaska. I just have to email her my order. they cannot do it through their current website. apparently though they will be updating their website soon which may fix that issue. Shipping was very reasonable by Alaska standards. Regardless this is very good news.

Yeah, it's just that I haven't decided where I'm ordering from yet. There's a bunch of choices. Soo I figured why not ask the experienced guys here first! Now that Apdriver has let me know I have more confidence that my plan will actually work! I'll still call them. But at least I'm fairly confident it won't be an issue!

Thanks! I may just need to get some ordered up then.

So I'm looking to get started In making a few soft plastic baits for my fishing here in Alaska. I'm having issues with companies that don't want to ship plastisol here or want to charge crazy high shipping charges. Like $85 in shipping for $125 in plastisol. There is a local freight forwarder who would give me a reasonable price on shipping from their headquarters in Fife, Washington. But if there's any hazardous stickers on it, hazmat, ormd, or anything of that nature, that would add $152 per order to my shipping price. So for those of you that have plastisol shipped to you Is it considered hazardous or does it have any hazard warning stickers on the box at all? I know I should call the manufacturer or retailer that's selling it, but it seems to me that you guys have tried all the different brands so I wouldn't have to call them each independently as I try to decide who to order from.

I would check out some of the videos that Smalljaw puts out on YouTube! That way you could look at several different molds in a finished bucktail jig and decide from there. https://youtu.be/aqogLBDN3Cc?si=juNJfFQJ49C4eh7E

Yeah, I may consider a dual injector thanks for the suggestion. Once my mold arrives and I know how much plastisol it takes Ill make a decision then.

Thinking about just going with an N2 from Barlow's. They have a wide range of sizes including the bigger sizes. And I've read a few positive reviews.

I know this is an older thread, but, I need to find a larger injector. Just ordered my first soft plastic mold for a 12" grubtail. I use them for Halibut fishing here in Alaska on 24oz bullet heads. If there's a good larger injector on the market these days I'd love to hear about it!

You can just buy silicone squid heads and cut the heads off. Or you can buy skirts like in your picture. I buy them locally here in Alaska all the time. Sometimes in bulk bins bought individually and sometimes I buy the wally whale or other brands packaged 2 skirts to a package. If I'm needing a bunch I'll order them from John Beath at https://www.squidlures.com/skirts.html What size earballs are you making? I'm making a version we call yhe GumBob in 10, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, and 32 ounce sizes. I've thought about getting a bigger mold as well but, so far this range of sizes is working really well for us.

Yeah, that could work. It needs more weight though. Maybe a heavy bead? Being made of thin aluminum they don't weigh enough to cast very far. Trolling might be ok I think if a weight was added in front of the spinner.

What about a wire straightener like this one? It's made for the task. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/american-fishing-wire-deluxe-wire-straightener-tool?ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Cabelas|Shopping|PMax|Fishing|HighMargin|NAud|NVol|NMT&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsy1BhD7ARIsAHOi4xYcyMWz40llJTuAKIN9nXMPTMEA2Npf4QOJtmdIUoRzOMK-5A8WyMEaAgY-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I bought 40 of these recently on eBay. They are aluminum 5 inches long and we're listed as lake Erie walleye/salmon flutter spoons. They are definetly light. Probably too light. My original thoughts were to add water activated lights to these. But the hole is only 3/8 and the lights I have are much bigger in diameter. If I could find a light that fits I would try adding one. That being said does anybody recognize these and know what is supposed to be in that hole? It appears the tiny holes are for tiny machine screws to hold in whatever was in the larger hole. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I would heat the spoon then use my powder paint airbrush with some protec super glow powder paint. Hang in your toaster oven to cure as you would with a lead jig. If you need a crisp line try masking tape. It holds up to a heat gun.

Super glue is just a variant of CA (cyanoacrylate) glue. It works OK. I prefer to buy the good WTP eyes most of the time. The sticky back holds well. Then I coat over the top with D2T or AlumiUV. The D2T is great just takes 24 hours to cure. The AlumiUV is good also but needs at least a couple of hours in my UV curing box to set it. Neither one has failed me yet!

It's to hold the ice blade and hook to make a soldered ice jig. It's by far the fastest and easiest method I have used to make them. Yes there are other methods. But this is the simplest and easiest way to accomplish this task.

I still have two of these. But, they are not for sale or to loan out. I'm suprised somebody hasn't started making and marketing something like this since Reinke bros closed and quit selling them.

Thank you! Glad to see you back on the forums man! If you get a chance could you please pm me your address. I've got some fur for you that we discussed awhile back.