Kasilofchrisn

like cadman said Drop out is fantastic. And way better than other graphite lube sprays I tried. No comparison at all Drop out was 100% better. I buy my large ladles from Rotometals. They are the Rowell brand of ladles.

Hey DaleSW replied to your PM. I don't think my method will work for you but all the info is in my thread on jig foiling. The big one is the 325*f needed for the foil adhesive to work. Not sure a hard bait will handle that.

I was also going to suggest a bigger bearing bead. I'm not sure where in Alaska your located at but I'm in the Soldotna area and have plenty of parts if you ever need one or two to try out or measure. Also have the molds to make spinner bodies etc.

I use my toasyer oven to preheat my big saltwater jigs but not for my small jigs like your talking about. I would also recommend you try the propane torch or an alcohol lamp to heat them.

Well first off let me say that the reason I got into jig/Tackle making in the first place was to find a way to make a better quality jig. I was buying these jigs from a local tackle shop and they just wouldn't hold up. I broke several of those saltwater jigs and at $18 a pop I wasn't happy. But the ones I build hold up and work great. So a key aspect for me is the pride I have in making the best jig I can make. And the best jigs have properly cured powder paint. I guess for me it is the pride I have knowing I put my best effort into it. I'll know I didn't do the best I could and that would bother me. Also If the paint on one ever did fail and the jig was working well I would not want to be wishing I had cured that killer jig that now isn't catching as well because the paint is flaking off. Like I said when I buy tackle I don't buy whats cheap I buy what works and is of good quality. I don't buy jigs that have paint in the line tie eye. Not ever going to happen no matter how well that jig works for others. Same for other issues of quality like uncured powder paint. If I knew jig A was Cured and jig B was not I would everything else being equal I would pay the higher price for A every time. Knowing that whoever made that jig put more time and effort into making their product better. They showed that they cared about quality. Besides It really isn't that much more in cost or hassle. Especially since I make so many large saltwater jigs that MUST be cured to hold up for more than a couple hours. SO I have the jig racks and toaster oven anyway so why not cure my small jigs as well? I guess I just put more pride into my tackle making and that makes me happy knowing that. Like I said use what works for you and what makes you happy.

I'm willing to bet a local machine shop could cut one down to whatever length you need for not much money. Or get a bigger oven.lol

Do whatever makes you happy. As for me i'll always bake mine. And i'll never buy a jig I know is not cured properly.NEVER! I got into making my own jigs after breaking several store bought jigs of inferior quality. Man they caught fish but they didn't hold up. But mine do hold up.My customers really like that aspect of my powder paint. My custom jigs =quality. I don't mean to rag on you personally but there's a reason we make our own custom jigs and better quality is one big part of that. Does this other fellow sell his jigs for the same price as others who cure their jigs? I sell mine for more than the made in China jigs. And people are happy to pay it. Because they're better than those Chinesium jigs. Like I said do what you like but don't claim they're better than or equal to mine,because they're not. Properly cured powder paint = better quality than those that are not cured. No denying that. But hey use what works for you and makes you happy.

Yes drop out helps a lot. As does heating/warming your hooks.

So a few weeks ago I realized I needed some more #6XH Rosco ss split rings. I had considered ordering directly from Rosco but they have a minimum order of 5,000 and I really only wanted ~1,000. Well I found a vendor with a decent price on them and ordered up 1,200 via their eBay store. When I got them I dumped the first bag of 100 into my bin and quickly realized they were not the same as the ones already in there. Got out my Micrometer and my calipers and quickly realized they were standard #6 and not the 6XH I had ordered. The #6XH have heavier gauge wire and these were not made with that wire. The bags were marked 6XH. I notified the vendor via email and he said that's how they came from Rosco. Not sure I believe him though I did promptly receive a full refund. I inquired about return shipping costs in my initial email and he said he doesn't pay return shipping. So until he pays for their return I guess I'll hold onto them. I did tell him he needs to correct this with his other buyers but it's doubtful in my mind that he would unless they figure this out. Fortunately I caught this before putting these on my customers jigs as they are half the # test rating of a #6XH. we catch some big fish here in AK and these need to hold up I ended up ordering from another vendor so hopefully these are the correct size this time. But anyway the moral of the story is double check your parts or order from known reputable vendors.

I have some of the jig racks from http://tjstackle.com/ They work great and I don't even have to open them up. On small jigs just slip the hooks in and they work great. Plus no more nipple jigs if I somehow get too much paint on them.

I might consider using a dimmer switch to control the vibration if I can figure out a simple and inexpensive way to make it work for me. I didn't have that on my first go around but could see the benefits. What I did was make a "T" out of some aluminum C channel and added spring feet. the front portion or top of the T held 2 fluid beds. The back or bottom of the T had a hand sander attached. It was a bit noisy and did not work quite like I had envisioned. Might be time to drag it back out and play with it some more.

I bought my fluidizing plate from an eBay vendor years ago. It came in 8"x8" sheets. I havent seen it listed there since though. I never clean my cups. I have one cup for each color in my heated shop. I cap each cup with a knockout test cap and never had an issue in several years of doing this. I have cups with fluidizing plate bottoms and some with tyvek or other membranes. Some are standard 3" diameter x4"tall cups for small stuff. Others are 12" tall x 2" diameter cups for long saltwater jigs. I did build a vibrating aluminum base to test using a small sander for vibration with spring feet. I wasn't sold on it but may try it again here soon. Maybe try some different ideas on using it.

I may have to try that tape first that's a good idea. If it doesn't work well enough I have some red RTV that I have used to mod a jig mold before that I will try. I buy my hemostats off of eBay usually a dozen at a time. so I usually have a few extra pairs to work with.

Good idea Mark. I may have to make a pair or two of my hemostats smooth jawed. I may even try dipping a pair in some high temp silicone and see how that works? I was thinking it would hold better and keep the hook eye clean.

Fluid beds are pretty easy. I make mine using a flat cap for the base and use knock out test caps to hold in my membrane. Put the test cap in your fluid bed and knock out the center with a hammer and discard. Remove and save the remaining ring. Place your membrane over the end of the cup and replace the ring. You should have a nice tight membrane that is easily replaced. I use Tyvek from post office envelopes or Vacuum cleaner bag material for my membranes.

I use all the super glow colors and do multiple colors on one jig and never have had your issues. I just did some 1/8 and 1/4 oz slab jigs in the same exact color pattern you have there with no issues. I buy my super glow powders from TJ's tackle in the one pound canisters. Generally I cure them at 350* for 1/2 hour.

Especially true when i'm out on the ice trying to tie on a tiny jig in freezing cold weather. One less step on the ice that is a big headache saver.

Here's my take on what you said. I've posted my secret techniques before on this and other forums. Stuff that cost me money and a lot of time,trial,and error to discover. People such as yourself are often the first to ask how I did it and want to know my secrets after I post the first picture. This would include techniques like how to foil a slab jig that I posted a how to on. But when someone asks you a question you post a non helpful standard answer. To say that your not giving up your secrets is condescending on a forum such as this. Why bother posting at all? It's blatantly obvious that the eye needs to be covered. The technique he looking for is how that is accomplished or the best/easiest way to do so. I'm guessing whatever your technique is a member here has done it the same way they just haven't found this thread yet or decided not to post because they aren't willing to divulge the secret and fear sounding as condescending as you did by mentioning they wish to keep it that way. I understand not posting all your secrets but posting that you have them and are not sharing makes you sound arrogant. I may not post all my secrets but I also don't tell people i'm not sharing them. I just don't post in those threads at all. For me keeping eyes clear on smaller jigs involves curved forceps and a 3" fluid bed. Covering the 90* eye with the forceps jaws and having both the forceps and jig vertical works for me on many jigs. but you need the room of the 3" fluid bed as smaller ones don't always allow enough room for it to work. I'm not sure it would work on a size 18 hook but does work on a size 8 and 10.

I use createx and a small brush. Then I topcoat with epoxy or sealcote.

I use hemostats and even 90* jig eyes are not a problem to clamp to. I use 3" fluid beds fr these kinds of jigs without a problem. I wont use or sell a jig with paint in the eyes so I do my best t keep it out in the first place. Heating a needle or wire is what I used before I started making my own jigs and figured out how to keep it out in the first place.

I only Ladle pour my big stuff. Anything over 2 or 3 ounces. For smaller stuff the bottom pour is so hard to beat. And mine doesn't give me too many problems.

Yes I too love Drop Out. Tilting the molds is sometimes what it needs. I have a couple of molds that require that to fill properly. Another thing to try is using a scratch awl or similar tool to put a very small vent to the cavities that do not fill. this will allow the air to escape. just do one side of the mold.

I buy popsicle sticks to mix my epoxy. They work well and can be bought in bulk from hobby/craft stores. The flat sides allow me to scrape the sides of my epoxy mix cup and I also scrape the bottom as well. Once they have cured I use the other end of the stick for another batch. Sometimes I will even reuse a stick with cured epoxy on it but usually get a new one after each side is used as they are cheap.But when mixing be sure and scrape all sides and the bottom of the mix cup.

Check out the how to videos on TJ's tackle website. He powder paints a spinnerblade in one tutorial. http://www.tjstackle.com/

I have had good luck with Ted's powders. And the price is great. Highly recommended and a great person to deal with. I use his white as a base coat but it does look good on it's own.