Kasilofchrisn

I tried a google search and came up with: www.fishermansshack.com They seem to have them in 3/32 anyway. I suppose if you search some more maybe somebody has them in different sizes? I checked Hagens and worth and neither one of them carry them.

Ok so if you use two wires like the Chinesium jig you describe even if the second did not fit the hook eye why cut the second wire off at the bend? I mean the J part could still lay beside the other one and the J would still help hold it in the leadhead right? I believe that is what Diaery was getting at. Just because it didn't fit in the hook eye there was no reason to cut the J part off. My guess is their second wire never had a j bend in it. I make and use slab jigs all the time in my saltwater fishing. I haven't caught anything big lately but fish up to 50# are quite common for us. My slab jigs have a ss eye on each side but no hook molded in them. The ss eyes hold just fine on the fish I catch. I am guessing they would easily hold up to fish of 200#+. Granted these eyes have some bend to them and are not straight. My guess is that as long as the end of your buzzbait wires have some bend in them they should hold up fine wether in the hook eye or not. Granted in the hook eye is most likely the best method.

I use TJ's tackle for the protec glow powders and UV blast. Columbia is OK but watch out for extra shipping charges. I don't know about Canada but to AK several of their powders were and extra $12 to ship them to me so I cancelled those paints. Also check out Cadmans jigs website as he sells powders by the piound for reasonable prices.http://cadmansjigs.weebly.com/ He is limited in colors but he might have what you need for very reasonable pricing.

The new do-it site is now online. All do-it products from lead molds to soft plastics and accessories are all on one website now. As I understand it you must create a new password when logging in for making purchases.

Their new website is about to come online.It will have all the do-it products listed both lead molds and softplastics and supplies. They have talked about it on their forum. This link should explain things. http://custombaits.com/index.php?topic=5669.0

This may not be the best picture but both of these jigs have D2T coated eyes. I have yet to hear a customer complaint. These are bigger jigs (4 or 6 oz if i remember correctly)so I only brush it on over and around the eyes but they still hold up very well.

I too prefer WTP eyes. I also use D2T over the entire eye. I have had customers beat them into the rocks for days and the eyes stay on. I avoid the cheaper eyes as they are a pain to glue each one first. I still have some to use up so I will use them until they are gone them buy some more WTP eyes. I wouldn't trust the adhesive backing on the eyes to hold them for too long.

If the plan i have doesnt work I might just order a Panther Press hobby heat press. Does items up to 1.5" thick and has a 9" x 12" pad that goes up to 400*. I found it online for ~$280 plus shipping. Kind of sucks one place had free shipping but AK was not included. I make a lot of slab jigs that should work with this process and as of now the longest one is only about 10.5 inches long and 1.15 inches thick so the pad should be plenty big enough.

I don't have a heated press. There are other ways to apply this stuff like using the heat set powder. So my plan is to apply spray glue (or maybe some embossing ink that my mom has) then apply the heat set powder. After removing excess powder you heat it up with a heat gun then apply the foil. I am looking at several different ways of applying the foil and when I find one that works I'll post a report about it.

I started a thread on the foil it is titled "How to foil a jig like this" here is a link to it. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/27948-how-to-foil-a-jig-like-this/ If you watch the video i posted you will see the foil. I bought my foil off of EBAY but it is available from several places on the net.

Most guys use Worth swivels. They are a good quality american made product.

I have thought about trying that. The problem i have is if it works and i get some cool looking jigs out of it I will have customers beating down my door to buy them. It would be cool to have a few for my personal use but for me it would be nice to find a way to make it feasible to make enough to sell. Thats why i am trying the heat set holographic foil. I think it will be am awsome look that I should be able to replicate fairly easily if it works.

I understand the issues with Chrome powder VS a True Chrome plating. I too would love a cheap way to do true chrome. But since there currently isn't one I will do the best i can with the paints I have available. I do plan on trying some Heat Seal Holographic Foil on some jigs and that will probably be a lot shinier than the Chrome Powder paint.

Thanks that means a lot coming from a master jig maker such as yourself. I truly am having fun with the powder paint airbrushes. I have 2 hooked up right now but can see the need for a third for certain applications. The chrome over the base coats sure does look good though and I plan on selling a lot of those.

And here are some with the Chrome belly done with the powder paint airbrush. The bottom two are chrome over white with the airbrush then there are some with just the Chrome bellies and the top two have no chrome on them. As you can see with the blue one there is one without the chrome belly and one with it.These are 8 oz jigs.

Ok here is a picture of the Chrome. These are small jigs for me but are 1oz and 2 oz.

I use the Protec Chrome. I really like it though I do realize it is not a true Chrome. I will see if I have a pic of a jig painted with it. My favorite new way to use it is to do a base coat then do the belly in Chrome with the powder paint airbrush. Makes for some awsome looking jigs. I did find that clear coating over the Chrome with clear or UV blast really dulls it and makes it more of a dull gray color. Another option you have is Foiling the jig. I have used Ducting foil in the past but recently bought some Heat stamp holographic foil to try.

Drop Out is a miracle product that is for sure. I treat all my molds with it and it works great!! I never have nor never will smoke a mold as long as I can buy Drop Out. I do have a few molds like my Do-It Flutter jig molds that require the mold to be tilted a certain way for the mold to fill properly. If the other suggestions do not work try tilting the mold as you are filling and see if that helps.

No I did not contact WTP. They make sticky back foil not the heat stamp foil I bought to try. I am wanting the effect the heat stamp foil gives me. If sticky back sheet foil was able to give me the same effect I wouldn't have posed this question. Thanks for thinking of it though.

X2 this works for me.

No idea mark. I just pulled the youtube video as a way to see them make foiled jigs using heat stamp foil. Obviously the Lunker Punker is made with a completely different process.

The jigs in my Avatar are from my Shawn Collins fish jig molds. I make them in 1,2,3,4,5,6,8,10,12,and 16oz. I am making saltwater jigs from 1oz-48oz and all sizes in between. I have over a dozen CNC mold from Shawn Collins and another CNC mold maker I know for various slab style and other saltwater jigs. I do all my own casting and am not interested in repaints of someone elses work. Eventually I will make this work for mew one way or another and I already have some hot stamp foil to try when I find the time. If I didn't make the entire jig from scratch it just doesn't feel like it is completly my own creation. I am glad you found a solution that worked for you. I'll let you know how mine worked and the solution I found that worked for me. That way if I find a workable solution every forum member will be able to make foiled jigs like this.

I don't know what I was thinking but after making some jigs last week I realized my adjustment is on the top. I am definetly making one of these gun mounts. Thanks for the post and the pics.

Yes you can mix the two.You will lnot have as bright a glow but it will work fine.

Well this is a subject I know well. I have made thousands of jigs and I have thousands of hours wearing respirators including in heavy lead(Lead processing building at a lead/zinc mine) enviroments. First off a respirator is not always required. Proper ventilation is a must though. As is proper hygeine such as hand washing and not eating, smoking, drinking, or using chewing tobacco while working with lead. I wear FRC (fire resistant nomex)coveralls only used for making jigs as well as safety glasses leather, footwear, leather gloves and often times a faceshield. The other thing you need to be fully aware of is the temp of your lead. I Always use a thermometer in my pot. I made a bracket to hold my thermometer near the side of the pot. If you keep your lead below 900*f you should not have it giving off excessive toxic fumes or many fumes at all for that matter. That is for clean lead. I run my lead between 650*f and 750*f. Any hotter and I turn the temp down quickly. I always melt scrap outside and if it is dirty such as wheel weights I let it go for longer than needed to melt the scrap to burn off all of those contaminants. I make sure the wind is blowing the fumes away from my house and anybody else including your neighbors if you have close ones. Then I flux it with Beeswax and stir it while the wax is burning. Your wax should burn while fluxing as this will draw up the excess dross trapped in your lead. After fluxing remove the dross again and you should have good clean lead you can use in your jigs or to be made into ingots. only clean lead ingots such as this are allowed to be melted in my shop. If you still feel you need one a good half mask should be sufficient. Buy a brand you can get parts and cartridges for locally and keep it clean inside. You should also get fit tested to insure your mask fits your face properly or you will still be exposed to fumes and dust. A respiratory medical also is nice to be sure your not going to have other medical issues from wearing one. The HEPA filter is made to protect you from dust and particulate. This is what you should wear if creating lead dust. I avoid creating a lot of lead dust by carefully hand trimming all flash and hand filing all jigs clean rather than using power tools. If fumes are a concern of yours then you need an Organic Vapor (OV) cartridge. You can also buy the stacked defender cartridges that do both. Keep in mind OV cartridges are only good for ~ 12 hours once the package is opened regardless of how tight you seal it back up. After that you need new cartridges. Hepa cartridges are good for a longer use as long as you are carefull not to get the dust inside the mask during strorage.I recommend you use masking tape to seal off the end and prevent dust from falling out during storage. Also always store your respirator in a sealed plastic bag per OSHA regs and keep it clean. 1 gallon ziplocs work good. If you are careful and have good ventilation you might not need a respirator at all for jig making. If you want you can PM me with any more questions and I can answer your questions or point you in the right direction for more info.