Kasilofchrisn

Drop Out is a miracle product that is for sure. I treat all my molds with it and it works great!! I never have nor never will smoke a mold as long as I can buy Drop Out. I do have a few molds like my Do-It Flutter jig molds that require the mold to be tilted a certain way for the mold to fill properly. If the other suggestions do not work try tilting the mold as you are filling and see if that helps.

No I did not contact WTP. They make sticky back foil not the heat stamp foil I bought to try. I am wanting the effect the heat stamp foil gives me. If sticky back sheet foil was able to give me the same effect I wouldn't have posed this question. Thanks for thinking of it though.

X2 this works for me.

No idea mark. I just pulled the youtube video as a way to see them make foiled jigs using heat stamp foil. Obviously the Lunker Punker is made with a completely different process.

The jigs in my Avatar are from my Shawn Collins fish jig molds. I make them in 1,2,3,4,5,6,8,10,12,and 16oz. I am making saltwater jigs from 1oz-48oz and all sizes in between. I have over a dozen CNC mold from Shawn Collins and another CNC mold maker I know for various slab style and other saltwater jigs. I do all my own casting and am not interested in repaints of someone elses work. Eventually I will make this work for mew one way or another and I already have some hot stamp foil to try when I find the time. If I didn't make the entire jig from scratch it just doesn't feel like it is completly my own creation. I am glad you found a solution that worked for you. I'll let you know how mine worked and the solution I found that worked for me. That way if I find a workable solution every forum member will be able to make foiled jigs like this.

I don't know what I was thinking but after making some jigs last week I realized my adjustment is on the top. I am definetly making one of these gun mounts. Thanks for the post and the pics.

Yes you can mix the two.You will lnot have as bright a glow but it will work fine.

Well this is a subject I know well. I have made thousands of jigs and I have thousands of hours wearing respirators including in heavy lead(Lead processing building at a lead/zinc mine) enviroments. First off a respirator is not always required. Proper ventilation is a must though. As is proper hygeine such as hand washing and not eating, smoking, drinking, or using chewing tobacco while working with lead. I wear FRC (fire resistant nomex)coveralls only used for making jigs as well as safety glasses leather, footwear, leather gloves and often times a faceshield. The other thing you need to be fully aware of is the temp of your lead. I Always use a thermometer in my pot. I made a bracket to hold my thermometer near the side of the pot. If you keep your lead below 900*f you should not have it giving off excessive toxic fumes or many fumes at all for that matter. That is for clean lead. I run my lead between 650*f and 750*f. Any hotter and I turn the temp down quickly. I always melt scrap outside and if it is dirty such as wheel weights I let it go for longer than needed to melt the scrap to burn off all of those contaminants. I make sure the wind is blowing the fumes away from my house and anybody else including your neighbors if you have close ones. Then I flux it with Beeswax and stir it while the wax is burning. Your wax should burn while fluxing as this will draw up the excess dross trapped in your lead. After fluxing remove the dross again and you should have good clean lead you can use in your jigs or to be made into ingots. only clean lead ingots such as this are allowed to be melted in my shop. If you still feel you need one a good half mask should be sufficient. Buy a brand you can get parts and cartridges for locally and keep it clean inside. You should also get fit tested to insure your mask fits your face properly or you will still be exposed to fumes and dust. A respiratory medical also is nice to be sure your not going to have other medical issues from wearing one. The HEPA filter is made to protect you from dust and particulate. This is what you should wear if creating lead dust. I avoid creating a lot of lead dust by carefully hand trimming all flash and hand filing all jigs clean rather than using power tools. If fumes are a concern of yours then you need an Organic Vapor (OV) cartridge. You can also buy the stacked defender cartridges that do both. Keep in mind OV cartridges are only good for ~ 12 hours once the package is opened regardless of how tight you seal it back up. After that you need new cartridges. Hepa cartridges are good for a longer use as long as you are carefull not to get the dust inside the mask during strorage.I recommend you use masking tape to seal off the end and prevent dust from falling out during storage. Also always store your respirator in a sealed plastic bag per OSHA regs and keep it clean. 1 gallon ziplocs work good. If you are careful and have good ventilation you might not need a respirator at all for jig making. If you want you can PM me with any more questions and I can answer your questions or point you in the right direction for more info.

You can make you fluid bed cups as wide and tall as you like. I usually run 2" wide by 12" tall cups for my saltwater slab jigs. The bigger the cups the more air and paint you need so size your pump accordingly. If you dont mind both sides being painted it should work. You can paint whatever size blades fit in your fluid bed.

Wire cores are easy to make. Just go to your local welding store and buy a stick of TIG welding wire. One stick should make several of them as they come in three foot sticks in a whole host of diameters. Bring your mold and find the wire that fits it. Drill a matching hole in a dowel rod or a stick and epoxy it in or drill straight through and bend a small L in the wire. You could even just bend the wire into an L shape without the handle. I know I can buy tig wire locally by the stick for $0.50 each so if you have a piece of scrap dowel or a round stick you should have less than $1 invested. Way cheaper tha a Do-It wire.

Try watching the blade painting how to video from TJ's tackle. http://www.tjstackle.com/

Well I found some hot stamp foil rolls on EBAY I am going to try. http://www.ebay.com/itm/290994823891 Thanks for the help guys and I'll post some pics when I have some tested.

Yeah I noticed that this morning. Hopefully they get it back working again soon. The Stamppe appears to be the one I need. I was also thinking of trying Jones Tones but I am not sure how that one will work for this kind of application.

Thats weird I was doing bigger jigs and didn't have problems. I had at least 6 oz in a 8" tall 2" diameter cup and didn't have volcano problems. It isn't perfect but I certainly don't have trouble using it.

Thanks Ben I will check them out. Hopefully I can figure out how to make it work for me.

yes I buy it by the pound from TJ's tackle. I normally do use a cheap white for a base coat. I also normally add a UV Blast top coat. It is very good stuff. Spendy but good. The glow lasts a long time and unlike most glow paints the super glow colors glow the same color the paint is. So the orange is orange in the light and orange in the dark. Whereas many other glows are orange(or whatever color) in the light but glow in a whiteish color in the dark.

I have had good luck with the Harbor freight white. I just did 100 4oz jigs in it in my fluid bed with out any issues. They have since decided they can no longer ship it to me in Alaska. Then I found another source of white I am going to try next time I need some.http://cadmansjigs.weebly.com/powder-paint.html He is a forum member and a world class jig maker.

I like the looks of your mount. Unfortunately the temperature adjustment dial on my Ryobi is on the back so I can't mount mine the same way. I would have to have a way to access the dial and read the lights to see where I have my temp set at and to adjust it. I suppose i could just set it and forget it when doing most jigs then remove it for different applications. Might even be able to mount it differently Hmmmmm..... Not you got me thinking.

So while I was searching Youtube for jig making ideas I came across this video. It appears to be an oriental jig making factory. What I a wanting to do is foil some slab jigs that I make. the jigs are quite similiar to those in the video. They say it is an america made foil. Anybody have any insight into making foiled jigs like this? I have made a few test jigs with the foil ducting tape with a rolled pattern from some expanded metal on it. That works but is not nearly as nice as the foil job in this video.

Yes he needs to file form 637 so he can send in his quaterly excise taxes via form 720. If you don't file the proper taxes they will pinch you and it probably won't be pretty. I would also suggest he look into any state and/or local sales taxes etc. I would hate to see him have to pay some big fines for not paying his taxes. He might end up in trouble like this young man did. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/27554-tax-help-needed-from-a-teen-entrepreneurlure-maker/?hl=taxes#entry213893 i don't know anything about trademarks but making jigs from a stock do-it mold maynot be eligible for trademarking. Just a guess on my part.

I Use my adjustable Ryobi heat gun and I really like it. I like to dial it in so the heat is in the 400*-500* range. That way I lessen the risk of melting small jigs. And yes I have had that happen before. Saving a few seconds here or there doesn't matter to me if I accidently melt one or burn the paint occasionaly as I feel it is a wash timewise when that happens. All my bigger stuff gets heated in my toaster oven then dipped and/or sprayed with powder.

Yes I would suggest these jig clamps from TJ's tackle: http://tjstackle.com/ I have several of his jig clamps and they work great.

bass100 I couldn't agree more! Use what works for you! I just find it much simpler,easier and less hassle to buy eyes that I can stick on and epoxy over that actually stick to the bait. When I am working on an order for say 100 jigs every little step makes a difference in total time and effort involved. I had tried just epoxying over the cheap eyes and had some slip off during drying and get stuck in the wrong spot. Now I have a few of those dud jigs I use myself but I wouldn't sell them that way. I tried supergluing some on and while it worked it was messier and it took up more of my time especially putting big eyes on my big (20oz+) jigs. Any superglue(I didn't try the gel version) that got out from under the eye did cloud my D2T. Just my personal observation. In my Honest Opinion using the better eyes offsets the cost and hassle of glueing on the cheaper eyes. By the way nice looking baits!

Ahh land locked salmon that makes more sense. I am sure you could powder coat them. I would grip the hook with forceps. Heat with one pair then switch to a cold pair and grab by the eye (preventing your forceps getting tons of paint on them) and dip. Then be sure and sharpen your hook real good.

Welcome to the forum ninrigger. I have never heard of people painting hooks with powder but I suppose it can be done. I do know they make dyes that can be used on blades and probably hooks have you considered that? Depending on color you may want to use a white base coat it really all depends on the desired end result.Trial and error will tell you if you like it one way or another. I cure all my paints regardless of color at ~325-350 for ~25 minutes and do not have problems. When doing your base coat if you are fast enough just dip in the white then dip immediatly in the second color. Works great for me on my big saltwater jigs. No need for reheating or curing the base coat first. I have never heard of someone painting hooks for salmon up here,but, what would an alaskan know about catching Salmon?lol Might be the next big thing?