Kasilofchrisn

What about a wire straightener like this one? It's made for the task. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/american-fishing-wire-deluxe-wire-straightener-tool?ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Cabelas|Shopping|PMax|Fishing|HighMargin|NAud|NVol|NMT&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsy1BhD7ARIsAHOi4xYcyMWz40llJTuAKIN9nXMPTMEA2Npf4QOJtmdIUoRzOMK-5A8WyMEaAgY-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I bought 40 of these recently on eBay. They are aluminum 5 inches long and we're listed as lake Erie walleye/salmon flutter spoons. They are definetly light. Probably too light. My original thoughts were to add water activated lights to these. But the hole is only 3/8 and the lights I have are much bigger in diameter. If I could find a light that fits I would try adding one. That being said does anybody recognize these and know what is supposed to be in that hole? It appears the tiny holes are for tiny machine screws to hold in whatever was in the larger hole. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I would heat the spoon then use my powder paint airbrush with some protec super glow powder paint. Hang in your toaster oven to cure as you would with a lead jig. If you need a crisp line try masking tape. It holds up to a heat gun.

Super glue is just a variant of CA (cyanoacrylate) glue. It works OK. I prefer to buy the good WTP eyes most of the time. The sticky back holds well. Then I coat over the top with D2T or AlumiUV. The D2T is great just takes 24 hours to cure. The AlumiUV is good also but needs at least a couple of hours in my UV curing box to set it. Neither one has failed me yet!

It's to hold the ice blade and hook to make a soldered ice jig. It's by far the fastest and easiest method I have used to make them. Yes there are other methods. But this is the simplest and easiest way to accomplish this task.

I still have two of these. But, they are not for sale or to loan out. I'm suprised somebody hasn't started making and marketing something like this since Reinke bros closed and quit selling them.

Thank you! Glad to see you back on the forums man! If you get a chance could you please pm me your address. I've got some fur for you that we discussed awhile back.

Just thought I'd throw this out there for anyone wanting to try this. Apparently this website lists all the pressed penny machines people have found in the United states listed by state. So it should help you find pressed penny machines in your area. http://209.221.138.252/AreaList.aspx

Pressed pennies are made in a hand crank pressed penny machine. The pennies are a novelty/souvenir and the machines are often found at zoos, museums, tourist attractions, etc. The one I used is in my local dairy queen. So the four options at this machine were an ice cream cone with Soldotna, dairy queen written on it, a moose and bear that say Kenai peninsula Alaska, and fish that says Kenai river. You crank it until it lines up with the arrow for the design you want. Then you put in a penny and 2 quarters. Crank it around and it spits out your penny that has been pressed. There is a place ~ 1-1/2 hours from me called the sea life center. I've heard they have a pressed penny machine that has sea otters, walrus, etc. Pressed pennies are just cheap souvenirs.

The other day I finished a few Kenai Peninsula Alaska themed fishing lures made from pressed pennies. My dapping skills still need work. And I'm not sure the blades will spin. But the spoons should work. I have 3 different ones. A Kenai river jumping fish and a Kenai Peninsula moose and bear. Though the words are hard to read. I used the older 1982 and before all copper pennies. These were polished with #6 Rouge using a dremel. They ended up about the same size as a #3 French blade. Going to find some other pressed penny machines to try this out with later this summer

There are places that currently sell those wire forms. So I don't see it being a patent issue.

Nice! The Hagens is a good unit. I'm guessing you'll be very happy with it and produce professional looking spinners in no time! On top of that you're not limited in length like you would be on the Boggs.

Do not squirt your mold with water. Place a wet sponge next to your casting pot. Set your hot closed mold on the sponge for a few seconds to cool it off. Wet the sponge as needed. Here's a video showing this technique for bullet casting. But, the same technique can be applied to jig and sinker molds.

A quality wire former will make it so much more enjoyable and your spinners will be of a much better quality. I'm sure glad I bought mine! I have a Hagens, a twistech, and a twistech magnum. The Boggs didn't make my list of wire formers to consider as it was too limiting on size and required buying too many adapters to accomplish what I wanted. I think with all the adapters the Boggs cost more than my twistech. But making your own spinners is a lot of fun.

OK so that is what I initially thought. Your mold definetly filled out all the way. If your not already doing so Flux your lead well before casting and/or try some different fluxes. In all honesty I would file that area smooth and use those sinkers. You were going to cut the sprue off anyway so no harm was really done.

Thinking about this overnight and it occurred to me that you may be talking about denting? Were you pull Your sinker out and it has a dent in it. If that is the case it is because your mold has gotten too hot. Cool down your mold using a damp sponge or a heat sink of some kind or give it some time to cool off. I used to get denting when I was making a really big casting I such as downrigger weights. If I cool the mold down in between each casting the denting goes away.

Got any pictures of this problem? What size cannon balls are you making? I make them in every size from 1/2 ounce all the way up to 3+ pounds. From what I read It sounds like your mold filled out all the way but as its cooling the sprue brakes off from the main sinker? If this is the case just file the area clean and use it. Are You using pure lead or an alloy of some sort? I take it you're preheating your mold and you're fluxing really well before casting? Tipping Only helps if you're mold isn't filling out completely. But once the cavity is filled, tipping will not do anything.

You can buy the swivel sleeves from Barlows in a 25 pack. Much easier than ordering the minimum from Roscoe which is at least 1,000.

I bought a bunch of the metal sleeve spacers from Barlows and I'm quite happy with them. I buy most of my components from them. Good prices, reasonable shipping(even to AK), and I've had great customer service!

If somebody were to start a gofundme or something I'd surely donate.

Being a fan of the Smalljaw channel on YouTube and enjoying his helpful advice here I was wondering where he had gone. Just saw this video he posted a few minutes ago updating us on what's going on. So here's the link for those who are also missing his great content!

I can't say I've ever purchased/needed/wanted any fluorescent powder paint. But I have ordered from prismatic and powder by the pound with good results. You could check to see if they have a fluorescent powder paint. Most of the time, you can get other powders much cheaper than Protec but you do usually end up with a full pound of each color.

Don't Limit yourself to Protec paints. There are lots of other paint manufacturers out there and some of them do specifically have fluorescent powder paints. If you want a good glow powder paint Protec makes some excellent glow powder paints though. If your looking for UV they sell a clear coat for that as well and it works good too.

My jigging Rapala molds all take a popper hook. IIRC it's a mustad 33903 These have held up to fish as large as 40# on jigs out of my molds.

You might look into LED by Larvalace. It's like the lead wire but flat and comes on a small roll.