Silo1688

The next time this happens and your epoxy coat is sticky due to poor mixing...just dip your lure in spar urethane (for outside use) that is found at home depot ~$12.00. it may require 2 dips, waiting 4-6 hours per individual dip. that way it no scraping is needed. give it a whorl on a practice lure

I use Duram's Water Putty (DWP) for most molds. Found at Home Depot (in the painting section) it's very easy, moderately strong, however by itself does not give a very shiny finish. To combat that I take water and elmers wood glue in a 60:40 ratio mix it up and fill up the cavities, wait ~30-45 sec then pour it out. I do this one more additional time. Let dry x 24 after each coat. This will give it the moderately shiny finish. or.... I have also used E-tex or Amazing Clear Cast (both found a Hobby Lobby) 2 part epoxy to make molds (both top pour and 3D). This will give it the very shiny finish that you get with aluminum mold for a fraction of the cost. Remember to use the Hobby Lobby 40% off coupon. I have read this is not good for high production as the epox will distort over time. I am a weekend enthusiast and pour only for myself and some friends. So far it I have some epoxy molds that have lasted over 5 years that I use regularly. This it what I do... get a piece of Plexiglas ~12x12 glue your master to the Plexiglas. I use that blue superglue and just a small dot every inch or so will hold the plastic down. Make your mold box. For my mold boxes I use an old Tupperware container and cut the bottom off. squeeze a continuous bead of cheap caulking on the bottom and then place it over the plastic masters. Let harden x 24hours Gently rub Vaseline on inside of the box, plastics and the Plexiglas where the E-tex or ACC. These epoxies will stick to plastic, so make sure you are very thorough with this step. Make sure you are on a level surface. Mix the 2 part epoxy and slowly pour into the mold box. Let harden x 48 hours. Using the a metal spatula loosen the bottom of the mold and slightly pop it off the bottom. Rub off the remaining caulking and take out the plastic masters. Now you are ready for the top pour. I hope this helps. --George.

Honestly, I make enough lures to sell at some tackle shops and online to cover my tournament costs

Where can I buy the small item packaging for my lures that has the plastic front "clam shell" and the tear away cardboard back? Thanks everyone! --George

I don't buy any special bits. i just have a smaller bit to create a pilot hole. then take the larger bit and run it in reverse ~1/4 in. Then flip it to "drill" and finish the hole. Hope this helps! --George.

Here's my Barfish/ Yellow Bass. I use this basic color for myself. White base coat Transparent yellow back and sides down ~3/4 of the way down Pearl silver light covering, all over especially over the belly. gold on back and upper sides lay out several layers of masking tape that slightly overlap. use a sharpie to mark out out the horizontal lines. Cut out the lines. place the newly cut tape stencil over the side of the lure and spray over with black. Remove stencil and repeat on the other side. Spray the back lightly with black, just to darken it up a bit Sign the plug. Seal. Hope this helps. --George

robalo01, It seems you were reading my mind I was just going to ask that same question today! Thanks! --George

do you know that the name if that machine that sisson makes? I would like to possibly purchase one. I looked online and is that company's name Sisson Engineering? I even saw a hit under a guy by the name of Green Sisson who does lathe and turning machine apprenticeships. Any help would be appreciated.

Skeeter, do you know where they got that duplicator or do they build it themselves diy? I looked online all over and nobody sells a rotating lathe duplicator.

I was watching the Stanford Lures you-tube videos and it looks like the lures are mass produced. It looks like they have a dowel at the tail. I'm thinking some kind of wooden replicator like I've seen other guys use. But then I'm not sure because I'm not seeing any attachment on the nose (unless they sand it down). I emailed Stanford Lures about a week ago asking about this and I never heard back. No surprise, but it still has my curiosity. "Stanford Lures - How a Hand Made Bass Lure is Made" Anyway, if someone could shed light on this it would be great.

Matt, I bought into it after reading an article similar to this (only about soft plastics). I was in an small derby tournament and we quickly had our limit of that particular lakes' average size 2-3 lb clones. It was post-spawn and I started to throw a big fat curly tail worm on an submerged hump, needless to say I caught 5lb then a 6lb kicker fish, won the tournament and I won big fish. After that I was sold. Since then it totally helped me catch bigger fish. I'll get less bites, but I'll usually get 2-3 big bites on bigger lures. I don't spend much time on a spot if I'm fishing larger lures either, typically ~10-15 min (sometimes I'll even set a timer!). My lures that I make are usually larger than normal because of this. I hope this helps! --George

Thanks so much!

hey, where does everyone buy that at? I recently checked HD and it's not there. i saw it online but I do not want to pay for the shipping. I'm going to check lowes today

A-FREAKING-MAZING! GREAT IDEA. THANKS SO MUCH. I'LL CHECK IT OUT!

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a clear acrylic paint that I can dip my lures in. Prior to me sealing with spar urethane. I paint with different colored inks and the spar urethane and the concrete sealer for final top coat makes the ink run. however i learned that if i brush over clear acrylic like the createx gloss clear, let it dry and then dip the lure in spar urethane it does not run. So I'm looking for a larger amount of clear acryic paint that i can dip the lures in. Any help would be appreciated.

I was going to make my own A-rig so I did a search on youtube. Well some guy uses wire from those small survey flags that you can buy at Lowes/HD and then uses Bondo putty to form and make the head. I was then going to paint and clear coat with 2-part epoxy. Looks super easy and really cheap too! Do a seach and check out that video, it really helps to explain it. Take care. Hope this helps! --George

ACC is Amazing Clear Cast

I really like using ACC for my topcoats, but sometimes I get small dry spots. I wonder if this would adhere to it if I lightly sand the ACC prior to dipping it in the minwax? Hmmmm.....

I just checked out your gallery, awsome job. keep it up!

I build custom balsa plugs. after I seal the wood with superglue I'll use rattle can white primer/sealer. In fact I'll use my of my base color with rattle can, normally flat or a low satin. I noted the Ctex pain will still stick to it as well. then I'll use the airbrush for details. I hate cleaning out my airbrush. I'm too impatient. this works really well for me. I also use ACC for topcoat