Bassinfool

I'll tell you right now that using those bagged baits with scent tomorrow it is going to wash off. Simply hasn't had enough time to absorb into the plastic.

Worm oil acts as a softener in the plastic.

https://bearsbaits.3dcartstores.com/Flat-Belly-Finesse-Worm--45--5-Cavity_p_70.html# http://www.basstackle.com/6_Treat_Worm_p/165-kj-4.htm

The baits absorb the scent if you put it in the bag. It's just scented worm oil and the baits will absorb it well if you let them sit in it.

Us users, myself included, both enjoy and value those of you who are involved in the manufacture and sales of plastic and supplies input and always look forward to what you all have to say. That being said, when someone asks a question about your product the only thing your answer should contain is information about your product. Nothing else, no mention of other brands, names, nothing. If they're looking for a comparison let other users handle that, but the incessant bickering between one another has to stop. When I posted the "dick measuring contest" as a joke on the first page or so I was only half kidding because I knew this thread was just set up to spiral down into this crap filled hole we find ourselves in now. Think of it this way, if you were new to this hobby and were excited to get started and came on TU looking for answers and saw this childish squabble from not just adults but adults who own plastic supply companies. What is that person to think? Is that really the first impression you want to make? Even if it isn't a first impression, is that how you want to be known among hobbyist and producer? No, of course not, no one wants that reputation in any situation. So next time fellas, please, I implore you all to sit back in your chair and take a deep breath and just let it go. If you feel like you've been insulted or bashed in some way, send a private message to the person and get some clarification and ask them to make it right in the thread or to have the original posting deleted. If they're not willing to do those things and you still feel something should be done there are admins for a reason so please contact one of them, they're always happy to help. Lastly, thank you guys for apologizing. An admirable thing to do, truly it is. I hope this is the last bickering battle I see on here for a long while. The pouring community isn't a huge one so we need to get along as best we can and help one another if we are in a position to do so, not be divisive over something so trivial. Sorry for the long post, just my thoughts on this subject and the bickering in general. Take care and tight lines.

So far, I have found only positives when using the bead blasting material. Baits look better, feel better, last longer and still have great action to boot. If you haven't tried it yet you need to soon. Once you use it I think you'll have a hard time ever using anything else, it's really that good.

Never had a problem with plastic sticking to my cups unless I have just over cooked the hell out of it.

80 grit black bull is what I use and have had zero problems, yet, that could change of course. If you feel as if you're scratching the inside of the injector I would suggest using some worm oil on the oring and running it though the injector a few times to put a little protective coat throughout the injector. This is what I have been doing and aside from possibly protecting the injector it just makes injecting smoother, less plastic sticks to the walls of the injector and overall makes things less of a headache. Also, I have found that the beads can sometimes introduce air into the plastic so that could account for some of the clarity issues as well, don't know if that is the case with yours or not just something I have experienced first hand. Good luck, the baits look nice regardless.

I've never used any that wasn't beads, but that could just be coincidence.

Harbor freight, lowes, Home Depot. Glass blasting media.

Only check temp on whites or lighter colors. Use a cheap candy thermometer and it works great.

And the online dick measuring contest begins....

Not sure where you live, but I live in central Alabama and the humidity has been through the roof as of late. High humidity has given me problems in the past, it's just something you have to try and work around as best you can.

Mix the plastic really well before you pour it into the Pyrex. Don't use wooden objects to stir with.

Holo flake, purple, some reds are the worst about bleeding for sure. The way I've learned to work around this is to know the temp of your plastic. I use cheap candy thermometers because its what my fiancé uses making candy and they work great. Another way to avoid it is to mix in your glitter right before you're ready to pour. If you use small quantity of plastic and enough molds you can use all that plastic in one heat so you don't have to worry about bleeding flake due to reheats. It's low tech, but after I heat up my plastic in the micro I place it on a towel so it doesn't lose heat to my table and it keeps the plastic warm enough that I can usually fill and refill my injector 2 or 3 times if I work fast enough. The more you practice and learn your equipment the more proficient and time efficient you'll become.

No no's of remelts: never remelt powerbait, ever. Just don't do it. I'm telling you so you avoid being burned. Don't melt baits that have been in water recently or that have moisture on them. If they've been in water or have moisture and still want to remelt them best course of action is to lay them on some paper towels somewhere dry and leave them there for weeks. Yes, weeks. You want all the moisture out of those baits.

I have gold in several sizes from lurecraft and have never had a problem with it bleeding. If you want to try another brand I like the flake lure works has that I've used.

When I've dipped tails and put them in the bag the dye has bled out onto the other baits. The best way to do it is to either buy a tail mold or to shoot the entire bait in the tail color and then cut and leave the tail then shooting your body color. It's painstaking, tedious work but in the long run it will give you a better looking, more professionally finished bait.

Lureworks at ispikeit.com

It is a very light brown colorant I got from lurecraft. Sorry, I usually post the manufacturer's name out next to the colorant but I neglected to do so. The natural is from lurecraft, oxblood is from lureworks (spike it) and the chameleon is from Bear's (email him about it as it isn't listed on the site). If you have a brown color you can use that in place of natural, just go one drop at a time until you get the color you want. The chameleon isn't necessary either as it adds minimal color at best. It is what is known as a changeable color where it looks brown but is actually purple plastic. I just add in those 6 drops to try and get some more of that purple undertone.

Try it out, you won't be disappointed.

1/2 cup plastic 6 drops natural 6 drops chameleon 15 drops oxblood 1/8 tsp .015 red flake 1/16 tsp .008 purple flake

My recipe I use for oxblood that I like is a few drops of natural, few drops of oxblood colorant, .015 red flake and just a very very very small touch of .008 purple glitter. For my use, this has been very successful and has caught a lot of fish in drop shot worms. Laminating with a purple side looks good but is ultimately too much work for just my personal use with a drop shot worm

They're safe. I've never had a problem with them other than some of the colors bleeding into the plastic.

Oxblood is normally a light brown with a reddish/purple hue to it. I like to add small .015 red flake to mine.