Bassinfool

I use the super chunk whenever I am looking for a bulkier profile while still retaining a somewhat subtle presentation since the super chunk tends to glide through the water instead of kicking like say a rage craw would. They catch fish, anyone who says they don't simply don't know what they're talking about or haven't utilized the super chunks in the way they were intended.

I have some hand pour molds that I made on my own that I formed from a super chunk and then smoothed it completely out so there were no ridges or bumps on it by using a paintbrush to add more plaster to the mold after I had formed the shape of the chunk. I don't particularly care for hand pouring though because of the mess and added time spent having to trim any mess so I am just excited for when I can actually inject some. CBJ, the best thing you can do is read a lot of the patents and see exactly what they cover and what they don't. I can't personally say because I am neither an expert on patents or a lawyer. The best thing you can do is make a mold design that is different in a way than any bait that is patented. With the cut feet on the horny toad I would believe that they are undoubtedly patented.

I have quite a few different craw molds, I use the BT 702 regularly but sometimes that super chunk is just what the fish want.

I know for a fact that Del had and possibly still has a mold on their site that appears to be identical to the super chunk mold. If it isn't there then it is probably still on Lurecraft's site. With all the trouble you can get yourself into through infringing on someone's patent there is no way in hell I would ever make anything that resembled someone else's product that is patented. I like having what little money I have far too much to try that haha. Although Mike, I too am looking forward to the day when the super chunk patent expires. Of course, with my luck Zoom would just refile the patent and I would have to wait another 15-20 years, or however long it takes for them to expire.

I mix my own plastisol once I receive the jugs into one main jug that is divided about 70% soft to 30% medium. I mostly make drop shot worms, 7" worms and assorted craws and flipping baits. This ratio, for me, allows my baits to be soft while still holding up reasonably well to damage. Plus, because I want a ton of action without much stiffness using a higher ratio allows of soft allows me to achieve the desired action without being overly flimsy.

Thanks Mike, I will shoot him a call or an email sometime today or tomorrow. I'm just injecting small batches for myself, friends and local customers so the better the price I can get on the things I need to make baits the more I can translate that into a better cost for the people I sell to. They've got some great colors as well as glitters at lure works so that's what has me so interested because they are priced incredibly well.

I think I worded my question badly, I was referring to the dropper bottles of dye like you would get from Bear's or LureCraft not the chatreuse or pink dyes you use out on the boat to dip tails.

Has anyone here used the spike it lure dyes? I have used nothing but lure craft with great results but spike it has some great prices on their dyes. Just looking for someone with some experience with these dyes and whether or not you'd recommend them.

A lot of people use a George Foreman grill or just am electric skillet.

It looks like your standard 7" trick worm mold to me. I'm on my phone so I couldn't get a whole lot of extra detail from the link you posted so I couldn't tell if there was anything special about that worm. I would check out bears baits he has some great looking worm molds.

Do you have a picture you can provide? I tried finding it on tacklewarehouse as well as a few other sites but found nothing.

I do not cure any of my baits in water. Some people do because after demolding a bait immersing it in the water brings the internal temp down more quickly than just setting them on a rack. If you add salt to your baits, then putting them in water can cause the baits to draw up water as well which is something you only have to worry about with high salt baits such as senkos. Also, like bassman said the only time I have a little bit of oil in the bag is if I get a little heavy handed with the oil but if I let them sit in the bags for another weak or so the baits usually draw up the excess. The reason I use this method is because in my opinion having a bunch of oil sitting in the bottom of the bag isn't as attractive a package as one that doesn't have a pool of oil. Even without the excess oil in the bag because you allow the baits to soak up the oil over time they remain nice and slick and won't stick together in the packaging without making an oily mess everywhere.

I can't answer for others here but this is what I do for my baits. I make my baits and let the cute laying or hanging as straight as possible for as long as a week unless it is a rush order type deal and then I only wait a day. Anyways, I add scent after I heat my plastic so the baits already have some scent in them and then after they have cured I take a Tupperware container (do not use these ever again to store food! Your wife or girlfriend will kill you when her food tastes like a crawfish!) I put my baits in there and according to how many are in the tub I add both worm oil and scent to the tub. Put the lid on and shake the absolute heck out of it until the baits are completely coated. Set it down and let them rest for 25 minutes or so then you're ready to put them in the bags. It will take some trial and error but the baits should soak up and absorb the oil and scent and won't stick together in the bag without having to immerse them in oil in the bag. Hope this helps you and anyone else who has been having this same problem. Of course, if you want to have oil lining the bottom of the bag that is totally and completely up to you, I just prefer my baits to not be sitting in excess oil.

Oops, that should read plaster molds not plastic!

If you are looking for some inexpensive molds to get started with look into Linmar molds. They are simple plastic molds but make some great baits. It is how I got started and I still make some hand pours for people who ask for them from time to time. Also can't recommend the soft pourasol enough, works great especially when hand pouring.

That sounds like a good looking worm. I may even have to make a few of them myself!

Do you have a standard measurement that your spoons would be comparable to such as 1/8, 1/16, 1/32? An approximate number is fine, I'm sure it will be a matter of experimentation once I start using it.

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to making soft baits so just looking for a little advice here. I've made a lot of baits just using dye's and glitters but have never put in any hi-lite or pearl powders. I generally make plastics a cup or less at a time as this is not a huge operation right now and I'm unsure how much powder is too little or too much. I would really appreciate it if some of you more experience gentleman could give me a quick reference or idea as to the approximate amounts to add for such a small batch. Thanks in advance and happy fishing! ~Nick

Have you asked him for a detailed description of the bait? That may be your best solution as one persons idea is likely to be different than another's and when it comes down to it, the only persons who's idea matters is your customer's.

Hey man, I don't really have any info that can help in regards to the bags, but just wanted to say you don't have to apologize for your English. Your use of the language is actually much better than many of those who use it as their everyday language, which is sad for them and commendable for you.

Botulism isn't something you want to tangle with, if left untreated long enough it is more than enough to kill you. It's less common with garlic and other vegetables like it but more common on cantaloupe, lettuce and some squash varieties. I have been thinking about making some of my own scents recently, will probably try garlic and coffee first before trying crawfish or fish.

There isn't anything really holding it in place other than the notch you slide the tail into. If you wanted to drop a small bit of super glue into it to give a little added security I'm sure you could.

They just slide into a little notch at the back of the bait.

Just wondering what hardness everyone here uses when making worms, craws, lizards and other flipping baits. I'm getting ready to start pouring a lot more baits and am having a hard time deciding between medium and soft. I'd like to have a bait with a soft feel, a lot of action but not be completely destroyed after just one fish. Just looking for some input. Happy fishing everyone.

This was my grandfather's "secret lure" haha! It's a pretty cool lure actually and for when they started making it in the early 90's it was a pretty big deal because no one had every seen anything like that before. I have toyed with the idea of trying to carve up one of my big swimbaits and fit the tail to the slot but I haven't actually done it yet. Very cool to see someone else who has this lure. I think I have 3 or so that I got from my grandfather shortly before he passed away in August.