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Flaswimbaiter

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Everything posted by Flaswimbaiter

  1. Just meaning I wanted to make it known that I might have been the problem with the tan not working Ever since I switched back and heat my molds, i can’t remember a bait coming out bad.
  2. I started with white, then switch to tan from a recommendation of a friend and went back to white. I had to many issues with tan, baits didn’t cure and a lot of air bubbles. Since I switched back to white, I have had very few problems. But I want to make it clear that could have been user error. :-/
  3. If you are not failing….you are not learning.
  4. First off welcome aboard. First bit of advice I would give you is to make your lips slots extremely tight. That way you can test Baits without putting the lip in permanently. The baits shape looks good, the only thing I could think of is to experiment with the location of your line tie. Maybe put it closer to the lip.
  5. If you cover the sharpie on soft plastics with mendit it won’t bleed as bad. I like sharpies for tiny details and patch jobs.
  6. This is also one of the reasons I make my own. ^^^^^ if you want durability make printed blanks, silicone mold them and pour resin. I once yeeted a 3:16 four piece shad right onto a dock piling and it came back with barely a scratch.
  7. Like you I looked everywhere and thought they were too expensive. I bought some clear plastic materiel and use an Xacto knife to cut out most of my designs. https://www.amazon.com/stores/neglex/MylarStencilSheets/page/9FD5CDAB-BA2A-4CDF-A02D-78723C264A69
  8. You have to add micro spheres. By the way heating the molds works.
  9. Sorry I didn’t clarify, I meant by weight. I have put more but it’s like peanut butter.
  10. I did it mainly cause I was using too many balloons and it became a habit. I would mix with the thinner of the two to make it mix and flow better.
  11. The most I use is 12% but before I used as much as 20% and it was hard as you said. I mixed the balloons throughly with one part then mixed and then pour and I had some large Sprues.
  12. When I first started I got mine from Aliexpress. They are super cheap so if you ruin it, its not much of a loss. Many of the baits domestic sites offer are the same exact baits. Only problem is it takes like a month to get them.
  13. Yes, I have made baits for salt and if it sinks very slowly in my pool it will suspend in salt. Glides are harder, they need to sink just a bit faster in faster.
  14. My first attempt at scales. The clear and paint did a good job of covering up my mistakes.
  15. Thanks, my light is 396 I found out.
  16. Thanks guys, will try sunlight to test the resin.
  17. That’s why I don’t understand the tackiness. I put the light right on top of the resin and leave it for at least 10 minutes. And these are very small amounts. Maybe my light is too weak.
  18. Could you please clarify “nm” so I have a better understanding?
  19. I only use UV resin for correct mistakes and filling holes but also fixing chipped clearcoat. I have a plug-in light in a very strong flashlight, but for some reason even if I put it directly on the light and let it sit for 15 minutes it’s still will be tacky on the surface. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?
  20. I have a lot to learn in regards to wood. I only use a couple varieties. I was watching a video and the guy was using pine but it did not look like your typical yellow pine like a 2 x 4. Are they different densities of pine? Maybe one that is more dense that is easier to carve without getting hairy or splinter. If so, what are they and more importantly, where can I find them?
  21. Weight play a bigger role than people think for rat baits. I just made a Mickey Mouse bait and spent hours trying to tune it get it to run strait and the whole problem was not enough weight.
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