Flaswimbaiter
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Everything posted by Flaswimbaiter
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The labels say 2-4 hours. How long do you wait and how many coats?
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Is that hardener waterproof? I would like to get away from using superglue, but it test my baits in water before painting them.
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Following. I just got some and that’s the clear I use.
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kudos Grandpa! I made a dolphin swimbait that didn’t swim the way I wanted it to, so I removed the hook hangers, painted it baby blue and gave it to my granddaughter. She absolutely loved it.
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Amazing work, that’s what I am looking for.
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Not sure why, but I had the impression that glitter too big would affect the curing of the resin. Have you ever used on a final coat?
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I want to experiment With adding glitter to my resin like Marlin Baits just to see how it looks. But I am not sure what size or kind to buy. Have any of you try this or have any suggestions?
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I agree with JD, if applied properly D2T will chip but not peel. I took one of my wood junk baits fishing for peas in Miami and they destroyed it and even took out chucks and pulled out the last segment, but the rest of the clear was still solid. -
If you did a two piece and left an air pocket on the inside to make it buoyant how would you glue them together? I would think that even with epoxy that it would make it cloudy. do you think foil coverd foil might work? Just trying to come up with ideas.
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When I design a bait to have a lip I cut it before carving, these are converted baits. That rubber band method sounds like a good idea, I am going to try that.
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I have been converting some resin baits into wakes and crackdowns, so they were poured without the lip slot. I am really struggling to get the slots strait. I am using my bandsaw but it usually comes out crooked and by the time I fix it it’s too wide or just a mess. Any suggestions?
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I use hot glue To attach weights when testing. It sounds like the buoyancy of your resin is spot on that’s why you didn’t need any weight. If you can add some micro balloons that would make it more buoyant and then you can move the weights like hillbilly suggested to get the desired effect.
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Following.
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Redfish caught on my mini mullet wake -
Resin wakes much better than wood.
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8lbs bass on my crappie crank bait -
Thanks everyone, great advice. I will prep the bait, drill holes and horizontal groves on the lip and switch to the 2 ton waterproof epoxy.
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Just recently I’ve had two lips come out clean with no damage to the lure. Both Baits were resin and I scuffed up lip but did not really do any prep to the lure, But most of my slots are really tight. I’ve been using this method for a while and have even broken a lip without it coming out, so I’m not sure why this happens suddenly. I used Devcon five minute epoxy, I have used superglue in the past but most all failed. Should I be using the same two-ton Epoxy I use a clear coat? What are you guys using as far as adhesive and technique?
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It’s good that you changed the lip angle if you wake a wake.
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It is resin. The wooden original ran strait. I didn’t add a lot of weight because I didn’t want it to dive, maybe I should have added more. thanks guys!
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Have you ever tried sealing with superglue, painting, then clearcoating?
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For that size I would 1/16th drill and SS wire. AZ was right about the lip and weight locations. For a bait that small I would use a hardwood not PVC because of its buoyancy.
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I made a frog rat bait, everything is strait and symmetrical, the lip it not canted and the bait runs as it should, I can even retrieve at a moderate pace without blowout, but it tracks to the right, not just a little, but at a noticeable angle. What would cause this to happen?
