DaveMc1

From the way things look, it seems like Jeff is retiring and MF won't be around much longer. Interesting thing to note, several MF colours are now available from LureWorks on their new website www.shoplureworks.com in the classic colorants section, under the soft plastic colorants tab

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Makes perfect sense.

That is my understanding, Dyes are much smaller and able to migrate between substrates.

Yeah, McLovin175 up above works there and probably replied to your email as well LOL. Make sure to reply to the email, he's a pretty smart guy with this stuff.

Cherry Red 120 is a dye, it don't matter what you do with it, it's going to bleed, and more than just a tiny amount.

100% it will bleed. You will need to try to find a translucent pigment to use instead of the dye to make it non bleed, not always possible but if you can it will help greatly.

Contact Spike It again and ask if you can get the VPI paint shipped. SB Coat is airbrush ready and in small containers only. VPI isn't airbrush ready and is only available in quart cans. The Bruce that frank mentioned in that post used to work for ColorTechnologies (Spike It/Lureworks)

Heat the ball valve. PID, thermocouple, rope heater and some ingenuity will allow you to heat the ball valve directly.

BP is a retail business, Polysol is a manufacturer and only sells to businesses buying volume. One of Polysol's owners is a part owner of BP.

I know one guy up here in Canada running some large Rite Hete pots to dip musky baits in and he's microwaving plastic to get it started. Problem is the time it will take to completely cook a few gallons of plastic will take forever. Even going to heat exchangers most likely won't work as they are only good for roughly half their volume in one shot and if you let them sit for more than a few minutes you're burning them up.

Microwave is the only option really if quick is a requirement.

Use it right before you fish the baits. Some were advertising to marinate your baits in it, but being water based the resin won't absorb any significant amount of it. Their new BF injector looks more promising.

it is 100% waterbased. ABW (owners of BaitFuel & Netbait) uses a different form of Baitfuel (not available to anyone else) to add to the plastic during the manufacturing process for their own products.

One of the reasons for the consistency differences is the batch sizes, LC last I read is mixing drums at a time where Calhoun (Lureworks & Polysol too) will batch thousands of gallons at a time.

Everyone's pigments/dyes are unique to that supplier. I have always found the majority of MF to be thin (watered down). The Lureworks line is great, I use them for the majority of my pigments/dyes. Their parent company (colortechnologies) supplies a good portion of the production industries so it is likely your favourite brands are buying the same pigments/dyes. As noted above, every supplier's pigments are unique. As for Greenpumpkin, it never hurts to have a green GP like 109 as well as a browner version like 156 (both LureWorks colours) I think you're referring to LureCraft, they sell a plastic labelled 502, not Lureworks.

They are standard horrizontal soft plastic machines (Chinese style) with extruders (utilize solids) on the front end instead of heat exchangers (utilize liquid) There are FAR less steps involved when pumping the liquid through a heat exchanger directly.

There is no Elaztek. Elaztech is a material developed, produced and marketed by ZMan.

If you get stuck and can't find any Lureworks has their UV Glo Dye (liquid). Does the same basic thing, no colour, just reflects UV light.

I wouldn't be using seed oils personally. They can get sticky on you and go rancid.

Phthalates have very little to do with it. The issue will be the plasticizers and stabilizers smoking off when the plastic is hot. Those fumes are not what you want to inhale at all. If you pay attention to the exhaust system (unless you're outside you should 10000% have an adequate exhaust system in place) the fumes leave an oily residue. That residue is being left in your lungs when you breathe this stuff in......Regardless if the plastic is "Phthalate Free" (that's a topic for another day) or not.

Personal use doesn't absolve you from being sued for patent infringement.

Nope. Won't work. Automotive paint (specifically the clears) are designed to harden and create a protective layer over your base coat. Whereas the paints supplied by Lure Works (SB Coat, Co-Lure Coat and VPI) are formulated specifically to bond to PVC and remain flexible.

https://www.ispikeit.com/product/757/plum-dye-179 https://www.ispikeit.com/product/410/emerald-green-4203-hex-cut-0015 There you go.

Here is a picture of their Camo in a different bait. Definitely a laminate. Like I had said, putting your hands on them will give you a much better idea of the colour and will make matching it far easier.

Your biggest problem (and the problem most are going to have working with that old cookbook) is the recipes are so old the pigments used in them are no longer available or have changed. That Berkley Camo colour was cooked up by Del @ DelMart 21 years ago using the pigments that haven't been available for a long time. Would probably be best to grab a pack and see if you can match a sample you have in hand using pigments that are readily available.