DaveMc1

Will only really work with single cavity and certain 2 cavity side injection molds.

I have found that if you are having problems with laminates it has more to do with not having equal pressure or temps are off. Here's something to think about, large manufacturers are able to laminate very large production molds with 25 - 200 cavities. They are laid out and function the exact same as a side injection mold, just with a lot more cavities and way longer runner.

I would have to ask which version of the shooting star do you have, there are more than a couple, I have had 2 of them, the original one Bear was selling (with the rotating manifold) and now the newest version from UltraMolds. Do you have the base plate with locking brackets? The only time I get bubbles in any baits is when the plastic is too cool in the pots and when the o-ring on the nozzle is about to fall apart.

It's not my info to share.

From what I've been able to research, the ingredient list is a bit more involved but the same basic premise.

In my experience yes, you want a side inject mold for the best results.

Of course, the large manufacturers do it all the time in their large production molds.

No it doesn't. Add it after, I have found over the years it has a far greater effect when added after the baits sit for a day or 3. Go to the dollar store and pick up a plastic tupperware bin, largest you can find. Put your baits in that bin and put some of the scent on them and shake it up. After that you are ready to put them in your plano trays or package them up.

Everyone except Jacobs Baits uses a 5/8" injection port, the injector shouldn't be an issue regardless of who made it. As long as the nozzle fits the mold (they should pretty much all work) it will be fine. I am not sure the small injector nozzle will fit the med injector, pretty sure they are a smaller diameter tube.

I have a couple colours that use a ridiculous amount of flake and don't notice them to be any weaker.

MF

you would be looking for grape.

sheetlabels.com, send them the artwork, pick the size of label you want and choose a weather proof label and the quantity, hard to beat the price.

They most definitely do "cure". I have noted subtle differences in firmness in baits upwards of a few weeks. All you are doing when putting baits in water after de-molding is cooling them off and setting the plastic. They will continue to firm up as the days pass. You are usually fine to package them after a day. I like to hang them over night and bin them up and let them sit for a few more days if I can

no, thats MEKP

bet you its just as simple as June Bug and Red Bug

His minimum is 1000 per colour and he's horrible at colour matching.

There is quite a large difference in most of them. The dyes (bleeding colours) tend to be very vibrant and clear, the pigments (non-bleeding colours) tend to be semi-transparent at best. Use them wisely and the dyes can be a VERY useful tool in your arsenal.

No we can't use it. It is a completely different material than plastisol and processing is very difficult for the hobbiest. One of the plastic manufacturers used to offer it but it was so difficult to use they don't offer it any more. I know ZMan has very specialized equipment to heat and inject this stuff,

Mike is no longer in business. I know a few years ago he was looking for a buyer.

Someone correct me if I am wrong but the P95 filter is basically just a dust mask. Filters particulates only. The cartridge needed is an Organic Vapour cartridge (something that can actually filter the chemicals from the plastic), and should be replaced after 8-12hrs of exposure to air.

Hmmmmmmmm Spike-It's Plastic, Spike-It white colourant as well. Ultra Molds 2.5 Gallon stainless pots too. Minimum batch mixed is 2 gallons. I somehow don't seem to have an issue getting a nice clean bright white. If it yellows in the slightest I won't package it and put it on a store shelf. When I run these too I will shoot a few thousand a week. A lot of subtle light colours (pearls, hilites etc) too. I firmly believe there is no such thing as the "Perfect" plastic. They all have draw backs. DON'T buy into all the hype, try as many as you can and find the one that works best for you. I have found what works best for me and just because I use it doesn't mean it will work best for everyone.

Less black colorant will do the trick, I had to mess around for a while to get the formula I landed on. You want it to be just dark enough to call it black, that way the flake shows through good.

this is 100% personal preference. Did you get into this hobby to make what everyone else does or to make your own???? just try it and see if you like it.

I wouldn't use plaster for a master like that, id rather use a resin.