DaveMc1

I wouldn't. I would suggest a laminated bag. The materials they are made from are very compatible with the plastic. heres a link http://www.shopbaitjunkys.com/6x4_c_72.html

http://www.pouryourownworms.com

It's mylar they put in there and they're made in China so who knows what all goes into them.

Order Grape instead of purple if that is an option. If a company has a purple that doesn't bleed then odds are its the grape that most sell.

Last I heard anything he was abandoning the small guys to make production molds full time and then sold to someone else.

Could be that you need to top off your runner as it sucks the plastic down. Double check that your injector holds enough plastic, then if you still have the hollow baits try topping off the mold a couple times as it cools.

Well there you go LOL.

I do have a couple molds like this as well, smaller runner and tiny gate, if I hold pressure for a few seconds it gets around the dents, most of the baits I have had made we use the largest gate we can get away with and still have a good break point to make pulling them off the runner easy. I think Carolina Mike mentioned an easy way to tell if your plastic was heated to a proper temp is to dip one in acetone. if it dissolves it didn't reach a proper temp. Personally Ive never tried it, I just made it a habit to hit at 350 on the initial heat.

UMMMM Angling AI LOL, look them up on their own site or LureCraft

A hand pour straight down the nose will do better than injecting it from the side like that. The way it is laid out is asking for bubble problems. even injecting straight down the nose would probably work better.

Places like BaitJunky's and LureCraft etc. will sell clear laminated bags for plastic baits. You can usually buy them by the hundred from these places. Then you just print labels for them etc. This is the best option for the vast majority of those hand pouring/injecting. With printed bags, you have a plate fee per colour (anywhere from $100 per colour to $250 per colour) and then you have to buy anywhere from 10,000 - 50,000 bags at once (Very few will let you order less than 10,000 bags at once though)

It's far less of a difference than 300 and 330. Ive seen virtually no difference in the final product between a bait shot at 330 and one shot at 350. No matter how you shoot the plastic it does have to come to 350 in order to completely change over and set properly.

16 cavity stick molds, I routinely shoot with the temp controllers hovering around 170C (338F) with the actual plastic around 330. Never have I had a denting problem, maybe, and this is a huge maybe, I get 5-10 out of 1000 stick baits with a dent. Further, ZERO colour issues, including white. Only fading I've ever seen is with specific dyes, all other dyes and pigments I have no issues with. It seems that as soon as I went with my own mold (I specified the layout, runner and gate design as well as the cavity design) I had no issues with dents. For the OP. The reason they dent as Frank noted is the gate is too small for the bait. Plastic expands as it is heated and then contracts as it cools. To prevent the baits from getting dents as they cool you need a fresh supply of hot plastic to feed the cavity as it cools. If the gate isn't large enough it will freeze off before the bait is cool enough and the only thing it can do is shrink and pull from the side causing the dents. One fix is to shoot your plastic cooler as it will actually contract less. Another is to hold pressure after filling the cavity. If the gates are that magic size they will sufficiently feed the cavity as it cools. Also remember, you still need to bring your plastic up to proper temperature of 350 when you initially cook it, then back the temperature off to your shooting temp.

He is dealing with actual bubbles in the plastic, If he had denting issues I'd say that this (or more importantly revising the injection port to hold more reserve plastic and opening the gate) would solve the issue.

I am not sure about the mini setup, I have the large ones and with 2000 watt heaters under each pot you will want each pot on a separate circuit. I run one pot and the manifold on one circuit and the second pot on it's own. Not sure with the mini but I haven't had an issue with the large one.

Negative on that. There are a couple different patents. This is one you hear about being patented but I haven't been able to find the patent to read it.

That will for sure work Bob, and lots of people do use it just fine. Me personally I found it to settle too fast for my liking, the larger granules sink in the mix faster than the super fine stuff does as it tends to suspend far better in my experience.

Here's one place to get it. just about all of the suppliers carry it. http://www.shopbaitjunkys.com/Fine-Flake-Salt-Gallon_p_223.html

Did that for a few years, thought it was the best thing since sliced bread, until I tried an actual super fine manufactured salt and realized I didn't need to deal with the clumping and the absolutely crazy clouding it brought. The very fine salt I currently use doesn't completely destroy the colours (I only have one or 2 that I need to adjust for the salt where the ground salt I had to change ALL my formulas) and I get next to no clumping. And yes, I was powdering my own kosher salt, never again, buy several hundred pounds of it ready to go in 50b bags.

Great write up. I've been running a couple of the large systems for a couple years now. I'll give you a great tip, best thing I did with this is grab some galvanized ductwork the right size and wrapped it around the insulation and hold it there with a couple stainless hose clamps. keeps the insulation from getting so messy. The large system also has a pair of cartridge heaters in the manifold and a 3rd temp controller, not sure why one isn't used with this smaller unit as well.

It's probably their regular watermelon colour, the orange flake will change the way it looks. I just made Greenpumpkin, Greenpumpkin Copper and Greenpumpkin red, All used the same green pumpkin formula and yet they all looked like completely different colours

Was going to say, I just made some with silver powder from spike it, they came out looking a little better than the liquid from MF. I have been using MF's liquid for the last few years.

Why would anyone want to or why should anyone have to do that to an expensive brand new mold, especially when there are a few more cost effective options out there that don't have the branding on them?

GYB formulates their own plastisol in house.

Shoot them an email, I bet it won't be too hard to get one