DaveMc1
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Everything posted by DaveMc1
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I talked to Rupert before Christmas and he was leaving for England until the end of Feb i believe to deal with some family matters.
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It doesn't work better Don't grind it up either, makes it clump badly and settles out faster. order it from one of the suppliers listed.
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That is because salt is heavy and it sinks (the whole reason for adding it) you need to keep stirring it to keep it suspended. the reason your sticks aren't sinking is because the salt isn't getting into the bait, its sitting on the bottom of the cup. Buy the salt offered by the suppliers (Bait Junky's, Bear's Baits, Lure Craft etc) it is super fine and will suspend better than a coarse table salt.
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no, more softener will make it more buoyant. you are probably not adding enough salt. how much salt - plastic have you used?
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Lurecraft's is a pressure pouring pot, not an injection machine.
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the hi lights won't show up as good on lighter colours, they pop very well on dark colours.
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Fixed
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Sorry but the issue you have is the gate (narrow area between the injection port and the cavity is too small. the cavity needs to be almost touching the injection port. what is happening is that narrow section is freezing off not allowing the bait to draw fresh hot plastic as it cools and contracts, causing the dents you are describing. regardless if your temp is 300 or 350, you should be able to shoot this bait with no issue other than having to top it off because your reserve reservoir is smaller.
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Bear sold the Ultra Molds molds before there was and Ultra Molds and he had his own CNC Mill
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http://ultramolds.com/product/hollow-swimbait/
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bet you didn't mix it before pouring out to heat it. all plastisols need to be mixed thoroughly before heating as the resins will settle out and cause what you are experiencing.
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and the splined inserts for do it if I am not mistaken. personally, after using all of the moods out, Angling AI's are the best shooting holds out there, and they come closest to matching a dipped tube, but you have to cut the tails.
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all other paints will not adhere to the plastic. The only paints that will are from Spike It, being the Colure Coat 2o waterbased paint and the SB Coat/VPI solvent based paint. all others will just flake off i guess.
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The colure coat2o water based used does need a sealer coat but not because it will wear off, it bonds just fine, but when dry it will bond to itself unless either dipped or sealed in their vpi clear. so if you have 5-6 swimbaits together they will all stick to each other unless sealed. I said to hell with it and switched back to their VPI paint for everything as it doesn't need to be sealed at all.
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Not exactly. The companies that sell the premixed colourant ready for use are buying the raw pigments and dyes either 2lbs or 40lbs (5 gallon pail) at a time depending on supplier and mixing and matching to get various colours, then they cut them with plasticizer to make them easy for the hobby guys to use (bottles with yorker caps). What is most likely happening is they are either changing to meet customer demand or the colour was discontinued or changed by the manufacturer. As Frank stated, MF and Spike It (a manufacturer) will have the most stable colours that haven't changed.
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Most of the modern starter kits out there now let you choose your mold, colours and flake.
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Not in aluminum 1pc hand pour. Lure Craft a 1pc silicone somewhere on there that is very close to the Darter JR but nothing like the regular darter. Shawn and Kim that own Lure Craft started Poor Boys several years ago and that is one bait they would not touch in a hand pour mold for Lure Craft, I don't imagine the new owners of Poor Boys will allow one either.
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when you start to see how far a bottle of colourant can go you won't worry about it. There are a few things that you can use but I haven't really seen a commercially readily available liquid colourant other than whet the supply sites already sell. The stuff you listed could be a water based dye which would be a huge no.
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There are quite a few baits that have been patented, it is a long process to get a patent and to protect their product a lot of companies will advertised that their product is patent pending, they are still protected
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This is one of the biggest myths concerning patents, It does not matter if you sell the baits or not, just the mere act of copying the patented product violates the patent. I you make a pop mold of RI's beaver and make 10 baits for your self, then they send you a cease and desist you must comply or you can be taken to court on a patent violation.
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Id doesn't matter what reasoning is given as to why, If you copy a patented bait, you are violating that patent. My take on the whole thing is if you want that particular bait, buy it, if you want something better then make it.
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Look at LureCraft for 1pc hand pour molds. They should have a few aluminum molds from DelMart and they will have a HUGE selection of silicone 1pc molds. The vast majority of injection molds do require an injector to push the plastic into them. I will tell you now that hand pouring into 1pc molds is an art and take a lot of patients and practise to develop the techniques you want to master,
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Read my last post, if it is gold, then a gold pearl powder is what you need, just go easy with it.
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no not a white pearl powder, a coloured pearl powder http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/c-79-pearl-glow-powders.aspx adding colour to a regular white pearl won't get the desired effect.
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It's a pearl powder not a hilite. you will probably need to cut into it to see what colour it actually is.
