DaveMc1

Worm oil is plasticizer, it will naturally absorb into the finished bait. It's not a bad thing at all, especially when your adding scent to it. Depending on your manufacturer they could be buying plastic from one of the large manufacturers or mixing their own plastic.

Contact Wave Fishing directly, they should be able to get you what you want.

This particular bait appears to have been made via production machine (3 colour machine) it will shoot the chartreuse tail, move a bar in the mold and shoot a laminate body (blue hilite / clear silver holo flake) all in one cycle. I would need to see a detailed pic of the nose and the join between the chartreuse tail and body to be 100% sure. If you're looking to replicate that exact it is surely going to be time consuming.

If I am correct in my thinking then his bait is produced on a large scale machine which makes use of water chilled molds, the function is strictly to keep heat down to reduce the cycle times on the mold. The baits will be hung on large racks for a day or 2 before being picked. If i am wrong, sorry To answer the OP question, the memory is roughly the same, you will need to develop a method to package the worms so the tails go into the package straight

BaitPlastic.com is now selling the BaitJunkys branded plastic, same manufacturer and formulas and they're still vacuuming the air out of it. 1000% correct, best advice is get a small quantity from as many different manufacturers and try them, you will decide easily what works best for you.

Wont be the same, The minnow silver is just very tiny silver flake suspended in worm oil

looks a lot like Spike It's Sparkle Pearl, it is a very coarse pearl powder. From the looks of the pic you posted there is no colour in there, it is just a straight pearl powder.

The stuff you are looking for is in the colorants section of the LureWorks line, called UV-Glo Dye 130

Absolutely Poor Boys Baits were made by Shawn & Kim, however, they outsourced their tubes so I would imagine that they were made with whatever pigments/dyes the manufacturer used. Only reason I referenced Lureworks is that is what I use as my primary source of pigments/dyes (I do use a select few LureCraft & MF colours)

Great tips for sure. I use this on a weekly basis I have a tube in this colour in hand, it's a single colour and I would definitely start with an amber (Lureworks). In my opinion (whatever that is worth) that is what it is, I can say for sure that there is no chartreuse in it. Lureworks amber and add 0.062 Black, 0.035 Kelly Green and 0.035 Purple.

closer to an amber

Shooting Star is just a set of heated pots and a hand injector, machines will use heat exchangers to heat the plastic rapidly. Heat it in a micro and transfer, much more efficient time wise

Nope, it's airbrushed

If you want the glitter Leonard sold then go to Spike It/Lureworks, that is where it came from.

You make molds now Bob?

Ours are a custom profile, you won't find anything similar on Josh's website.

Thats because it is basically 5 single cavity molds in one mold.

No, don't add a second o-ring to the end of the injector, I'm talking about adding a second white PTFE o-ring inside the nut for the valve. That is where the issue lies. You've pushed the nut too close to the disc, bottoming out the injector nozzle before it's o-ring can seat inside the nut. You need to space the nut out further to make a proper seal.

That is exactly how David himself told me he was processing it, pre-packaged very little of it.

You squished the o-ring, the disc looks fine. Like I said, I just rebuilt 2 setups (6 valves), I just added 2 o-rings, brought it up to temp, figured out how tight I needed it to be so it would seat the small tips in the disc and still seal the main external o-ring. Then I tightened the nut a 1/16 of a turn and backed it off, haven't had an issue since.

When you over tighten the nut for the valve you also make it so the o-ring on the tip of the injector doesn't seat causing it to suck in air. Once you have done this you also have permanently squished the white PTFE o-ring between the nut and disc (2 holes in it). I just pulled all 3 of mine apart on both setups for the first time in several years and replaced all of the PTFE o-rings with 2 o-rings. The valve will be tight so I over tightened it a little (while it's hot) and backed it off a slight bit. All is perfect.

Can't make laminates either.

https://www.baitjunkys.com/Fat-TW-worm-5-Cavity-_p_726.html

All of the BPS branded plastics are made in Alabama by Americans

This is the SLOW I was referring to. Which has absolutely NOTHING to do with how much salt someone uses. You keep trying to make this distinction that because I am a "production guy" (Frank also) as you say that none of the suggestions and tips etc apply to any of these situations, yet I know I have explained to you specifically several times that NOTHING I am doing is any different than what most on here are doing except I am working with larger volumes of plastic. Standard off the shelf equipment that is available to anyone. Hate to tell you this but the biggest difference between mixing and cooking 2 cups and 2 gallons...........2 gallons is easier to work with as any problems that may occur happen slower and you usually have time to adjust unlike smaller volumes. So please, do me a favour and stop making generic assumptions you know nothing about just to suit whatever your agenda is.