DaveMc1
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Everything posted by DaveMc1
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109 is a more traditional green pumpkin, 156 is more of a brown pumpkin.
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"Plastisol is not UV stable and will turn color over time with exposure to UV, this should be true regardless of manufacturer. You can get into pigments that are not UV stable as well but thats a whole other ball of wax. Best remedy....keep em out of extended exposure to the sun." Thats the reply in the other thread from McLuvin, he works for Spike It (ColorTech, very large supplier to the production industry), the info he passes on to us is quite accurate
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Hit up Leonard at BaitJunkys, he does impeccable work
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The way I look at it, There isn't a single major manufacturer I've seen using this production method. That there should tell you something.
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He linked you to Bass Tackle who provides molds, not baits.
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That has absolutely nothing to do with the mold but rather everything to do with the material (specific plastic compound) you use to make them.
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The only thing available right now is Ultra Molds Shooting Star. They have a mini setup and a large setup.
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http://www.shopbaitjunkys.com/Crappie-And-Panfish_c_161.html you'll thanks me later
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Ummm, why not? Only protection GY has is a trademark on "Senko"
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I mix drums with a 3.5" Prop attached to a motor spinning at 1800 rpm (called a drum agitator), no bubble problems to speak of. Before that I used a paint stirrer in a drill mixing 5 gallon pails, again, no bubble problems to speak of. Don't mix air into the plastic and you shouldn't have an issue. Side note, have you ever tried to properly mix a bucket or drum this way?
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Nextgen soft plastics - 3d printing soft plastics
DaveMc1 replied to Tubeman's topic in Soft Plastics
Almost the same as pad printing, which I am sure they are doing here. Usually only see that in the chinese made baits. -
no, won't be moisture. make sure you're mixing it good.
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Never said theres a ton in my tubes there is a lot though LMAO, and twice as much exactly in the stick baits. ^^^^^^ this. Salt sells, period.
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I manufacture and sell baits for a living, salt goes in EVERYTHING. The amount depends on the type of bait, Dropshot gets a certain amount, Swimbaits different, Craws different, Tubes a lot and stick baits a TON. I don't care who you are or your opinion of it, sales data over the last 8 years shows me that salt sells.
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my 8 cup pyrex cups are 4.5 - 5 years old and see daily use. I use Pyrex personally only because they are readily available locally. In my opinion if there was a major problem with pyrex (or anchor) cups and the material they make them with then someone like Frank or myself would have seen it by now. I don't heat slow, I don't treat them gently and I use whatever size that suits the job I have on the bench............and as I said, in almost 9 years I have never once had a cup explode.
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Almost 9 years and not a single broken Pyrex cup. I actually have 4 of the 8 cup Pyrex cups that have been in use for the last 5 years and see 2-4 gallons cooked in each daily and no issues. Find what works for you and use it.
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I'm not sure about brushing it but with an airbrush absolutely Remember, it is a solvent based paint and you will need to be in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator
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It won't bond to the plastic. Do yourself a favour and get the proper paint to do the job you want to do. It's not that expensive comes in 4oz containers.
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First, it's not denting, it is trapped air in the mold. The faster you inject the worse it will get. You will need a warm mold and inject SLOW and hot in order to minimize it. What temperature are you shooting the mold at? I suspect with their ripper mold you will find some of the same issues.
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If you are using Spike It's SB Coat then no it is not necessary.
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inject that mold real slow. see if it helps.
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Sorry Rob, that is a custom mold that Dale @ DM Custom Baits had made.
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You're going to have to plan when you shoot certain colours, chasing a strong primary colour like red or blue and others like chartreuse with clear or white is very hard to do without contaminating them. With the small passages in the manifold you can never actually clean them out. Best you could do is blow them out with air but it won't get everything.
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This is 100% a temp issue. If the colours aren't shooting with the same viscosity they will not laminate correctly. It is not necessarily that they are too hot, its that one is thinner than the other at the temps you are shooting. I shoot a LOT of laminates at 320-330 perfectly but I do have those colours that are stubborn.
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It's Friday, they don't work on Fridays, give them a ring on Monday.
