Slammingjack

I use Ace brand 100% silicone with a little water to make molds. I have used Vaseline on some parts of the model. The model is sealed with Mod Podge. The model won't stick to the silicone. Not sure if that will work for what your doing.

CCM hard is the best hard I tired. Still had real good action for a hard. I use MF 464 now, good stuff. I don't know what your using. But if you go to MF pick up their shad 2.25" mold and their 7" round worm mold. $10.00 each caught a lot of fish on them. Those hard poly. mold last a long time. That shad mold I have pour a few 100 times and it has not dulled yet.

Man, now I'll have to buy that mold lol

I like its got that used look. But I do think you need one or two more Lead molds. I would post mine, but I would have to clean it up just to make it look ugly.

Yep I have done too. When I first started. If your using a microwave if it has a 30 second button use it, until you get used to how it heats. I start with cold plastic and heat for one minute. the rest in 30 seconds and even then if I need just a little more heat I will do maybe 10 or 15 seconds and open the door. Oh don't put wood in there it will catch fire. Done that too.

Aah, I all ready use it and your right on all 8 counts.

Sounds like real good stuff. I'll buy it what is it?

Most people on here will agree with me on this. Plastisol is NOT user friendly. You and your son should be using a respirator and your work area should be very well ventilated. It can and will cause heath issues over time. It's a great hobby/ addiction. If your going to do it, do it right.

You have to seal the clay model with something. I use Mod podge. There are a lot of different stuff to use. I use it because the bait come out real shinny. .

No water won't thin it. Only speeds up the curing time. The water will pour off if too much is used, not the silicone.

If it didn't cure With in a hour or two. Add more water and Make sure you mix it real well.

Hmmm I always used wood for the box. Never put anything on the wood. It does not come off easy, have to pull it off. Doesn't get very cold in Florida.

here is a pic of a mold with model in it and the bait it makes. If you have fins on top and/or bottom. Then put the model in on it's bottom or top first and push down.

First of all silicone is not pourable. Way too thick for that. Make a mold box four sides a top and bottom. I use tile or whatever for the bottom. Fill the box full even to the top with silicone. Take you model and push it in from the top, until it's just above the edge of the box. Place the top on and press down until even with the top. No need to hold the top down. It helps if your box is hard so it don't give. I use wood for the sides and top. If done right it will pick up all the details. Even some you didn't mean it to. Like paint brush marks. If you have very thin parts they may break off when pushing it down. Pushing it down from top and putting a top on it will give you a mold with a nice flat top as well as it pushes the excess and most of the air pockets out of the mold. Try it again this way it does work real well. I have made like a 12 molds this way. So I know it works and is a cheaper way to make open pour molds with a hard model.

hmmm here's more info. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/26618-local-mold-making-material/?hl=slammingjack#entry203760

Here some more info. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/26618-local-mold-making-material/?hl=slammingjack#entry203760 hope that works lol

Yes adding water changes all that. Silicone by itself takes about 24 hours to cure. With very little water 1/4 tp is fine. It will setup in an hour. But the smell is super bad, will take your breath way. Don't do this indoors. As you mix in the water the silicone will change from clear to a kind of a very light off white . If you added too much water, the water won't mix in. Pour the water off before adding silicone to the mold.The mold will be stiff, but flexiable. I got a post somewhere on here. That I will add later. That silicone should work. Never used GE always use Ace brand. So don't hold me to it.

It needs to be 100% silicone! From what I understand the other stuff doesn't work the same. Also make sure you mix the water in real good. Don't take alot 1/4 tp. is find.

I have tired both CCM and M-F. I use M-F now. I have tired the 464, Great for swim baits. The reg. for softer baits. What I like about it ( I use a micowave) As close to no bubbles as you can get.You can shake the heck out of it and still no bubbles. Very little smoke, Very little cooking smell and no hard packing. Only time it turned yellow on me it was my bad for overcooking it.( by a lot) The biggie for me was I got a 1 gallon and from first pour to the last it was the same. Price more then some, less then others. BTW it was my #4 plastisol I tried. I'm a happy camper now and Jeff is a good guy. All IMO. I'm one of those guys If I like something I say it. If I don't I say that too.

Thx I'll check it out.

Thank you guys. smalljaw thx for catching my typo. Yes I did mean RDB-8-48. I do a lot of Southern Flounder fishing (flatties). So i'm fishing in saltwater. Most of the soft plastic bait are on the small side. 1.5" up to 3.5". Using a 2/0 hook is pushing it. Because of the flatties mouth. I liked that mold because you get 4 1/8 oz and you can use 2,1 or 1/0 hook. I would use 1 or 1/0. 4 1/4 oz size 1, 1/0 or 2/0. I would use 1/0 or 2/0. I have used Aberdeen hooks in some jigs and caught a lot of flatties with them, but I also lost some other bigger fish. Because the hook straighten out. Must saltwater jigs I have seem are just too big. What would be great is a 1/2 oz with a 1/0 hook. But can't find that anywhere. The Indian river where I do most of my fishing is tide driven. The currant can really rip at times. So I was looking for a hook that would fit in that mold or some other mold without being so easy to bend. But want to use 1, 1//0 or 2/0 hooks Thank you for your time guys.

I was thinking of getting this mold. I was wondering if it's any good. It also says you can put three different size hooks in the 1/8 and 1/4. Will the smaller hook be loose or move around when your try to pour? Plus it said to use eagle claw 570 hook, not a big fan of those. Is there a stronger hook that will work?

I like this topic so I'll add a little wood on the fire. I made a statement about CCM being good stuff. I also said I don't use it anymore. Now I have the time to explain myself. First I'm a newbie but I'm not a NOOB. If you don't know what a NOOB is ask your kids or grandkids. I just started making baits back this last Feb. So I don't have years under my belt yet. But when I tired CCM is was my #4 plastic I had tried. First tired two from LC saltwater and their 50/50. LC ain't bad stuff, I can see why peeps use it. There was two things I didn't like about it. If you have tried them I bet you can guess what they are. Next was LW/ spite-it. Good price... Moving on. When I did the first three or four pours of CCM. I loved the stuff. Even told the wife I think I found what I was looking for. Less cooking smell then the others. Less smoke as well. I got one gallon of hard and even as it being hard it still had real nice action. Big one, NO BUBBLES. The bait came out dry and that new bait smell was gone in a day or two. So what's to dislike about it? Well, my pours are not very big 1/2 cup or 3/4 cup. I use a microwave that has a turntable and a 30 sec. button as well. Can't control the heat on the 30 sec. at least not on mine, you get high heat only. I had a pour turn yellow on me. Not the first one I ever had, but the first where I hadn't done something wrong. I had always eyeballed my plastic. I wait until the plastic is to the state where it's starting to thin, but still has a little jelly in it. I add flake then mix it up. Run for 30 sec. more and then pour. Worked time after time. Until then. So I tired it again being a lot more careful and it turn yellow again. So I posted on here about what happen. I didn't think I had overheated it. Good old Frank asked what temperature was it at? Told him I didn't know and of course he say Then how did I know I didn't overheat it. Hmmm good point Frank. so I got me a temperature reader upper thing. And watched it a lot closer. It came down to 15 sec. was good 30 sec. we got yellow. WHY I don't know! I don't make the stuff ,I just use it, but one thing it seemed and I may be all wet, is that CCM seems to get hotter faster then the others. Well, after that it all went down hill The more I used the more stuff started going wrong. Started getting bubbles it, started popping when I cooked it. Turned yellow three more times. Even turned a dark green to a dark greenish with yellow highlights. I blame it on the whole bag in a box thing. Maybe, maybe not. Like I said I didn't make it. I did the box like they said turning it over 3 or 4 times. It was hard to tell if it was mixed good or not. Because it was in a box. Got so I hated that box. If I shook it hard I got bubbles. If I didn't it turned yellow. I would shake it hard and then let it sit for a bit and it worked better. But who wants to set around waiting for a bag of Plastisol to debubble itself. Not me. So I finished it and won't get more. The good news is after that I ordered a gallon 464 from MF. From first pour to last pour it acted the same. Now that's REAL good stuff. So now I have my first 5 gallons. Being a newbie learning all the things you have to learn to pour good baits is hard (and fun) enough without fighting your Plastisol. If I was a master baiter ok Bait master I would try CCM again, but I'm a newbie! Just not a NOOB.

I didn't say I still use it.