Mr.Nsmith
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Everything posted by Mr.Nsmith
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Always know how much time to melt the plastic to where there isn't a hole in the bottom of the pyrex cup...yeah....(and on that bomb shell always buy one or more pyrex cups...)
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Green Pumpkin/ watermelon color: 1 extremely small drop of folk Art Brilliant Ultramarine 4 drops of Createx Transparent Brite Yellow 6 drops of Createx Transparent Caribbean Blue
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First SXY shad color (for dingy water).... -
Finished Bluegill Pattern -
This is my first custom bluegill airbrushed...not as good as TU members Cougarftd or offdtop...but still it's the first one... -
Sebile Lure??? no.... -
Well the reason why I posted this was to ask anybody from TU about the contour lines, pretty much...and how to understand the map more and the key areas to fish at this particular lake..
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Yeah...I know but it's the fact that you made it and the great feelin' of catching a bass from something that you made by hand...and great bass on profile pic...and I know that Lake Fork and Strike King Spoon catches large bass.. as I said it's the feeling of making 'em by hand and catchin' bass....
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The top one looks like a terminator jig http://www.rapala.com/Pro-Series-Jigs/Pro%20Series%20Jigs,default,pd.html?start=1&cgid=terminator-jigs -
As I had said I extremely do appreciate the knowledge and expertise of the more well knowledge individuals here in TU...once more:thank you....and I feel guilty of having to say which is the better clear coat 'cause I only "hit top skin" of clear coats when I first researched and I didn't know that it was this "deep" in such description and overwhelming-ness of unknown possibilities of clear coats...so my apologies for the generic q that always seems to pop up and to the TU members whom are "frustrated" with that...presuming about the exterior grade solvent product from BobP what you'd said you have tried this or some one else has....what were the results from that testing?? And thank you for the knowledge of D2T..it's greatly appreciated..
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Well from what Brent R said and RayburnGuy and Markinorf auto clear coat-> possible health problems I don't need epoxy-> need rotating device: does not seem really hard to make....hopefully solarez-> need special lite n itself D. N S81-> storage problem Etex-> heard a lot pblms about it .....Devcon 2 ton clear 30 min epoxy seems to be the one 2 start with.....so on that bombshell, after learning I need to heat the finish painted b4 applying clear coat to prevent paint smearing...does the amount of epoxy affect the action of the bait? How long does the 2 tubes last as in being for 3"-4" x amount of lures (how many lures I can possible coat with D2T)? How slow/fast the rotator needs to be? how many coats I need roughly? Thank you all of your guys' Inputs to the clear coats.
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The crankbait will be hollow if you want it to be hollow or a semi-solid/ solid type of crankbait depending on how much clay you place in the "shell" mold of the crankbait...it will determine the thickness of plastic chamber (inside) and body....
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@Sonoman....what type of brand you use( for the clear coat ..is it spray can or needs to be airbrush on the bait)?
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...to be outside rotating painted crankbaits in the midst of snowy weather
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Also, I don't have a UV light bulbs like the rest of you guys do neither the possible $$$ you guys have so to buy couple of expensive clear coats and specialized light bulbs from the internet... and it's wintertime in Indy so there's no bright enough light and it's cold outside..
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@Brent R: I was making a example the overwhelming-ness of cost for a clear coat..... And also I have myself deep in bass fishing and I know I won't take myself out of bass fishing for a long time even if I might turn into a dirt poor man with one shoe and sell blood plasma to get $$ I well always bass fish as much as I can...
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@RayburnGuy....ok....I love createx paints, I have a wonderful gravity feed airbrush, I have no problems with blanks, and...it's just one question I just want to have this one, just this one question that I want it to be answered with no other words with the response (unless it's a important "bad" knowledge about it) which is: Which is the better dipping clear coat at a reasonable price per volume, won't yellow after many times, won't scratch much, will cure fast but not in bad way, clear coat in container won't harden up if in heated/ or cold room, and a quality gloss?? thank you for knowledge and your patience...
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And I have not seen the type of flutter spoon designed mold that I am looking for....
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Because of I'm desiring a metal spoon not a lead based flutter spoon and the vibration from the metal would be better than the lead based spoon
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Local Hardware Store idk?? Is this it: http://www.planetseafishing.com/tutorials/read/how-to-make-a-flutter-spoon/
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I would like to hear from anybody if they have tried this and their report on this...thanks...
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If I pay that much for a pint from that site (it minus as well be shipped by hand by KVD, Johnny Morris, Bill Dance, Roland Martin, and Stacy King together at my doorstep)....Imma just gonna go to the Devcon clear coat......this is just craziness...
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Soo... D.N. is probability the "best" choice?? haha...ummm..I went to http://www.dicknite.com/s81.htm and umm... yeahhh.. $$$$
