Mr.Nsmith

There are flutter spoons from companies like lake fork and Strike King that cost a hefty $7-$10 for a piece of shiny metal with a possible paint job on it that can snag quite easily....Is there a way to make these huge spoons without the huge dent in the wallet?? What I am wanting to do is to make one of these not from a lead or brass....and I thought of using aluminum, but wouldn't that "rust" and I know stainless steel is a xxxxx to form with a hammer, a vise, and pliers...furthermore, there is a way to make spoons well with metal kitchen spoons, but the desire length is not there...so What should I do?

On Page 10, A-Mac's picture, you just might have a sun tanning saloon...

Bobv, what you mean by storage issues? I understand what you mean EdL, I have seen the continuality of the same members on here that are popping up in most of these discussions and I understand that they're the "main" members that have the previous/ present knowledge of this...And for the Solarez is it at any stores such as home depot, lowes, mendards, etc?? or do I have to buy this on ebay or internet & such...

Same as with Shakyhead with the epoxy and Solarez, I'd read the ever so long article about Solarez and it just seems too much $$ for so little and if I interpreted the articles that you need the UV light bulb(s) to let it dry if there is not any sun so....And back to the varathane polyurethane clear coat and what Nathan had said.. I fish largemouth bass and wouldn't the bill hit the rocks if so unless you launch the bait at a seawall or dock perhaps...It's not that I dislike the 30 min epoxy it's just that I used a similar brush-on and the brush line were seeable and it wasn't great...so I'd preferred something that you could dip rather brush-on...such as the varathane polyurethane clear coat...

I could search for days and still not have a defiant answer of which is the best clear coat because of mixed reviews of every type of clear coat...Yes I could buy bucket loads of clear coats, it would not be the best financial decision, but I will know which is best right...but why do that....a simple conclusion to this of which is better clear coat will be simply nice...

haha well there are so many possible clear coats, its hard to decide which could be a possibility and a specific q is hard to say because then its presumed that its the choice your thinking of.... I'm not scared, I just want to get to the point that's all....which is most preferred by others and which clear coat won't chop my arm off for an .1 oz bottle for $40...Thank you.

Wow.....ummm well because of the arguments it's quite hard to decide which to pick because of drawbacks and being new to customizing....thank you, I think....

What do you think would be a better clear coat for a crankbait?

Somewhat off topic but still about spoons....how can I make flutter spoons that are roughly 4"-5" that are cheaper because the ones such as Lake Fork and Strike king are roughly $8'-$10 per each...

(It's in the front of the boat)

It's a Bass Tracker 165 and I was wandering how to remove a older fishfinder and to add a new fishfinder in it's place...? Any help would be great..

I have seen some else used this (and I was amazed at the quality) and I was wandering whether or not if somebody had used this product as well and other possible ways to clear coat a crankbait without yellowing....

I am asking for some help for the knowledge of helping me out with understanding of where to fish efficiently on this lake. From the Picture of Lake Lemon that is attached to this post I have fished this lake only once and I read a lot more about this lake from being a first timer going into this spring at this lake...where should I target largemouth bass during this springtime... I understand a lot about how to fish points, ledges, docks, and so forth but I would like to know the knowledge from outsiders' knowledge of fishing of how to "approach" this lake. *There are gizzard shad, panfish, and largemouth bass (Plus: there is a huge underwater and top grass mats in the eastern part (right side) from little over east from the main point parallel to the southern road)

I go to https://wlure.com/ they have crankbaits that I personally like and they are pretty cheap as in cost but not cheap as in quality...also, I bought some from http://dakotalakestackle.com/ which also has videos on how to paint lures, furthermore how to use/ make a stencil and other great info.

There are many ways to keep plastic all together such as plastic tubs for packages, but at home it takes a huge unnecessary room so I have a file cabinet with 5 drawers such as from a office to storage these plastic boxes... reply for any other way to organize the plastics would be greatly appreciated for me and other members...

Replicating a Crankbait Supplies: Trebles, Figure 8 hook holders, Split rings, tall enough container, glue, BBs (or whatever weight system), (veg.oil for the molding), Plaster of Paris, Clay, Varathane Polyurethane 200041H (blue bucket at local hardware store) (OR MELT PLASTIC BOTTLES), and of course crankbait "X" 1. Mix Plaster of Paris in the container (basic) - Remove crankbait "X" split rings and trebles 2. When the P.O.P. is settle but not harden, place the crankbait "x" half way (Be Precise) into the P.O.P as well as place holes into the P.O.P for the second half to come (place holes close o (but not really close) (2 part mold like) 3. Use the veg. oil and place it ontop of the crankbait "X" and the top layer of P.O.P. as well (it won't be stuck when pulling out the second half. 4. Fill the container of Plaster of Paris till the Crankbait is covered just over enough with P.O.P. and (let it harden and remove the second half) 5. Now you have 2 parts of that crankbait "X" shell (now it gets seriously tough) 6. With a rectangular shape clay form (Longer in width & Length for the crankbait "X" size) PRECISELY cut the desired thickness for the crankbait "X" for both halfs 7.Lay and press down nicely the clay into the shells of crankbait "X"....Cut off extra clay if need be and smooth it out (TAKE YOUR TIME ON THIS PART!!) X2 8. As you have finished with this depending on what you want to do you can make the chambers where a crankbait's "X" rattles will be placed. (For me there are two chambers and I previously cut out a similar crankbait "X" for exact detail) X2 9. Made these chambers with the clay and for the Crankbait "X" that I used had the figure 8 loops embedded into plastic so I made just like on the Cranlbait "X" with clay as substitute of the plastic and made a "platform" to the end figure 8 in the P.O.P and in the clay for the back and middle hooks also possibility the bill figure 8 or the nose of the bait) X2 ---For the bill leave a gap (slot) in the clay to have the liquid plastic come in 10. After clay has dried place one side (left or right) into the container and fill it will P.O.P. and let it dry and remove..(BE CAREFUL pulling the mold out) (X2) (separately) 11. Now there is a positive P.O.P. of the inner chamber,...cut off closely and then sand the positive half bill (X2) 12. Place the molded shell of Crankbait "X" with the Varathane Poly. in the shell (add enough) into the container then add the positive chamber mold of that side ontop the shell of Crankbait "X" let it dry and harden....(X2) 13. Remove the mold carefully and you'll have a split crankbait "X"..add BBs (or whatever weight system) and figure 8s glue both together...let it dry... 14. add split rings and trebles... 15. Add Nice paint job 16. Catch 'em Fish and keep on Fishing (IF there's any issues/ mistakes with my instructions.. I'm sorry)....