kajay920

I like it. Very original.

google router accidents on You tube

jonister, Used improperly the router can be a very dangerous tool. Its bits often moving at around 28,000 rpm. When you form materiel on a router you are shoving a piece of wood into the bit that is moving toward you. If that wood is not absolutely control some violent actions can occur. If insufficient downward pressure is not maintained the work-piece will vibrate and lift off of the spinning bit and if you hand is still moving toward the blade... gotcha. If the work-piece is pushed into the bit in the wrong direction, the bit will grab the work-piece and launch it violently into whatever direction it is pointed. The standard rule of thumb that I've been taught and used is to keep your fingers 3"-4" away from the bit as you are moving toward the bit. If you have a small crankbait that is only 3" long that you have to both push into the fence or bearing AND hold down at the same time maintaining that safe distance is quite impossible with out some sort of jig to hold the work-piece for you. Now, you need to use something that is stable enough to still control the movement and pressure. A pair of simple push sticks like used on a table saw will easily slip and potentially be jammed into the spinning bit. (Insetr violent reaction here). You could use a push pad like those for a joiner. That will most likely cover up the entire work-piece and you are working blind. Also, if the bearing on the router bit is too tall it will hit your push pad and not your work-piece. The shaft of the bit above the bearing is still a moving piece and could catch on the padded part of the push pad. (Insert violent reaction here) Don't get me wrong, as stated above, I have occasionally routed small pieces of wood. Your fingers cramp up and you have to go slow. Not very good for production runs. Below is a link to a video that shows just what a router can do to a finger that gets too close. ***Warning**** it is very graphic! https://youtu.be/cgNCFojZZJw

That is all great information Anglinarcher. What I was curious about is hard bait vs soft baits. Does the scent wash off of the hard bait faster? What if I added a felt patch like a kill spot dot, would the scent dissolve more slowly because it has a more textured surface to adhere to?

Some of the muskie lure makers use a router on their big lures. I wouldn't want to rout something so small as a 2"-3" lure though. I have routed small components over the years for various wood working projects and it is horribly nerve racking. A general rule of thumb is to keep your fingers 3"-4" away from the blade so unless you build a jig of some sort that is pretty impossible with such a small lure. I once made a jig for some small footballs where I put some non skid fabric on the end of a 2x2 and tried to use it as a mobile hold down. It was very wobbly and I had a hard time holding the work piece up to the fence and pilot bearing. Then as the piece got more round it became even harder to hold flat. Good luck.

Not anymore. I now cover the eye with D2T during the final topcoat, which seems to give it some UV protection. The old eyes that just had an acrylic clear over it did. They didn't look bad, just not as clear.

I like this idea because you could make different sized punches and produce multi color eyes!

In the first picture you can see the Holo-foil gets ripped and torn. The second picture is some of my test pieces. I am finding that the standard adhesive foil like that used on duct work is working better.

I've always made my eyes on the lure with paint and 5 min. epoxy. Recently I've tried an idea using holographic foil. I use a hole punch and place the dots on a piece of adhesive sandpaper backing to maintain the adhesiveness and to hold them in place for the rest of the steps. I dot the pupil, dry and then add a drop of 5 min. epoxy. They look great and I can just super glue them in place before topcoat. My problem is this; when I punch out the foil dots, they tear and a square tag is left on one side of the circle. I then have to trim with scissors and they aren't as round and the adhesive gets worn off. Does anyone have any ideas of how to punch sharp dots? Or is it just my cheap punch?