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barrybait! That makes sense, I will give that a try. Thanks

Ok! I see this is an older thread, but I have a question. If the lure is base coated in black, then do you use opaque colors to cover the rest of the black since it so hard to cover. Thanks Royce

CarverGLX Are your warts repaints or are you able to get blanks somewhere? Thanks Royce

Man! Those are some nice paint jobs. I would sure like to learn more on how you do your craws. They are amazing. Royce

If you buy the heat shrink, just watch so you don't get the kind that has a type that has the heat activated glue on the inside of it, that would really mess things up.

It's really good reading, and may I say fun to read all the ideas. Keep it up guys.

Wow! I was thinking of starting to play with making wooden baits, but after reading this whole thread I'm scared.Jk lol

Skeeter&Rayburn guy AMEN to that.

I have not been a member here long, but I think TU is the best forum for tackle builders, painters and so on. Jerry! I hope all your future adventures are as great as TU has been, best of luck to you, and thanks for your work here. Curt! change is hard for alot of us old dogs but I for one have seen a lot of change in the last 40 years with the company I retired from, both good and bad, but I know to be able to keep up with the changing of time things must change. So good luck with this site and I hope to see good things to come. Thanks for taking over for Jerry and keep the good work already done here going. Thanks Royce

barr5150 Glad to hear it is working out for you. So far I havent had any problems with it and it is holding up well. The only trouble I ran into with it was when I double dipped it one time and it wrinkled some of the paint, so I no longer do that. lol.

Thanks A-Mac and RayBurn Guy! I knew you would set me straight on this. LOL

Where do you guys get your createx clear? I have looked at most of the sites that sell createx and can not seem to find a clear in createx. What am I missing here? Thanks guys I know you will set me straight.

Thanks for that infor Ben! I will have to give that a try myself.

I don't think you should have any problem after 24hrs. It seems to melt into its self.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by top coating 24hrs apart? Do you mean painting or dipping again? For painting I would wait longer so it is not sticky to the touch for dipping 24hrs should be no problem, although I could be wrong! I am sure no pro. on this stuff still just learning myself. I scuffed mine before painting just trying to prevent any adhision problems. It is still a guessing game for me, but the help on here has been a lot of help. The other guys on here are great at helping out.

barr5150 I waited at least 2 hrs. and on some coats as much as 4 hrs as I had other things to do. It worked out great to let it dry that long for me.

Thanks A-Mac! It is the GST that I used, I did notice that while I worked on this one it seemed to dry better since I had a fan running indirectly on it the whole time. I work on these in my garage so it has been quite warm and it seemed like the extra air movement helped it dry better, or maybe I just forced myself to use a little more patience this time. lol

attachment=8097:412.jpg] This is the only pic. it would let me upload, but thats what it looked like when I was done. There is no yellow in the crank. It is green where it looks yellow, it is the lighting that is causing the yellow effect.

I just redid an old poe's. I sanded it down to the wood then dipped it twice letting it dry good between coats, then I sanded it with 1000 grit. Then I painted it then dipped it four times drying good between coats. It turned out great.

Man! Im sure glad I found this forum site. All you guy's are so helpful even before I run in to the problem.

Good luck on your tourney. this weekend.

OK! now I need to learn how to get my pic's clearer. The one on the right is down to the plastic but does not show up very good in the pic. .