Don-Art

PETG is the material that most people are using.

I use paper binder clips. They have worked very well for all of my applications.

I just purchased a California Air. I haven't hooked up an airbrush to it yet. I bought a 1 HP. Twin aluminum tank model. I just finished installing a water trap. I have used to clean off some items and inflate a tire. I agree with Thehammer in the above post. It is by far the quietest compressor that I have owned. Have a hard time believing that it's a oil-less It will completely fill the tank from empty in approximately 2 minutes. It has a 4.6 gallon capacity. So far I am very happy with the purchase. Don

Nathan, I hope that you have a speedy recovery. I always enjoy reading your posts. I also wish the best for your family. I can only imagine how hard it is for them. Don

Bobs method has worked well for me. Don

Those are great performining lures. A lot of people say that the original Storm Hot N Tot perform better than the new ones. Would you know if the clip that they use for the line tie, is available off the shelf. It reminds me of a leader component. Looks like a fun build. Don

What I like is how people share their information here on TU. Sometimes it may seem as if someone is hijacking our posts. But that truly isn't their intention. I like to hear what other people are using for their builds. Many times it has saved me the expense of experimenting with a new material or topcoat for an example. Sometimes it causes us to step out of the box and look in a new direction. I have also noted that people interpret the posts differently and supply information that is off the track and headed in a different direction. I have used expanded PVC signboard in the past, Basswood is what I use most. I buy it locally from a sawmill. I build for the enjoyment that it provides. Don

l would think that a small ram mount might be the ticket. I also believe that a standard camera thread for the tripod would be 1/4"-20. Which should be easy to make a DIY mount.

Great, Happy to hear that corrected the problem. Don

Not a problem, Glad to help you out. looking forward to viewing your post tomorrow. Don

Yes that's what I was referring to. I generally use a small machinist square, but I believe that this should bring you to the same basic result. Many times when we move these little machines around, we have a tendency to grab a hold on the table top. It doesn't take much to knock them out of position. I use the degree graduations on the table for reference only. Don

I may have over complicated things. Before you get in too deep. You should put a square on the table and then against the blade. I have found that on many machines that the zero mark is not true and can be off by several degrees. As a kid scroll saw blades were sometimes hard to find locally. We would take coping saw blades and either drive the pins out or snip the ends off. Just thought that I would mention that in the event a wider blade is difficult to find. Don

I may have over complicated things. Before you get in too deep. You should put a square on the table and then against the blade. I have found that on many machines that the zero mark is not true and can be off by several degrees. As kid sometimes scroll saw blades were sometimes hard to find locally. We would take coping saw blades and either drive the pins out or snip the ends off. Just thought that I would mention that in the event a wider blade is difficult to find. Don

Another thought is that you may have to make a fixture to stabilize and provide proper positioning of the cast blank.I have used epoxy putty to create a half mold in the past. Just don't forget to use a release agent.position your mold on a flat piece of wood or other material and add guide strips and a stop strip to your saw. Being that your casting a number of blanks it will be worth your while to spend the extra time needed on setup. Don

It could be blade deflection. I would suggest trying a wider blade that has more backbone.If you have a blade tension adjustment. I would add more tension to the blade.Another thing is that it is easy to forget to let the blade do the work. Overworking the blade can cause all kinds of odd results. Don

My Band saw gets used more often. I like to use my band saw to resaw material. I consider using the scrollsaw for cutting that requires my fingers to be in close proximity to the blade. I consider it to be a safer alternative.

Patrick, I know first hand, my mother passed away from Melanoma in 2008. I make my annual visit to a dermatologist and wear a wide brimmed hat and sunscreen when I am outside. My Mother lived her entire life in Minnesota. So Melanoma does not have any geographical preference. I might look like a old-timer in the wide brimmed hat. But I really don't care, because I know what the consequences can be for lack of sun protection. I will keep you and your wife in my thoughts and prayers. Don

I would be guessing that the Rapalas are from the 1970's. I know that if you asked the question on the Joes old lures message board, someone would have a better answer. Don

Very nice work. I have built a small stitch and glue duck boat and have helped build a couple of strip canoes. I can appreciate the amount of work it takes to make one.Keep up the good work. Don

I have used the home version, and it has worked well.

If the clear coat layer on a wooden lure has been compromized. I would do as Bob has suggested and completely strip the bait and repaint and clear coat. I use a heatgun to soften and remove the paint and epoxy. Also make sure that the lure is free of moisture, before painting or sealing. I have done some small spot patches with varying degrees of success. Most damages were caused by Northern Pike that like to leave their toothy signature on many of my crankbaits. Don

Thanks, Mark Its not near as beautiful as the Bass that your holding in your avatar. Don

I should mention that there are machines based on the same general concept being commercially manufacured. The real beauty in the one that I constructed, is that the majority of the components were salvaged. The end result is that I made this for a small fraction of the cost of a commercially manufactured machine. I will have to give the the two dowel pin concept a try, when I can make the time to do it. Don

Here's a few photos of my apparatus. One photo shows the pin which is guided along the master template. This is my first version. I have made improvements on the machine since these photos were taken. When time permits , I will take some photos of the improvements.