Don-Art

I have been working on very similar home built machine. My thoughts were to have both the work piece and the master/template revolving at the same rate, while possibly at the same time incorporating a linear movement to feed the tool and stylus along the part and template. All the movements, master and blank would have to be perfect in sync. I enjoy trying to figure out different methods to streamline production, I actually don't produce a large amount of lures. But more than likely the many years that I have had in production related environments, has caused me to think in this direction. I have made some two part lures from Basswood (This wasn't using the rotating method) But it was a three dimensional shape, that had taken me several hours to produce the first lure blank using only hand tools . I was able to finish routing out a full lure in seven minutes. It wasn't completely smooth and did require some minimal sanding. Both halves also had to be bonded together. One positive thing about it , is the fact that your hands can be a safe distance from the rotating cutting tool. If there is a interest in seeing some photos of my apparatus and some of the routed blanks that it has produced. I can possibly attempt to post some later this evening. Don

This is very interesting discussion. I like to think in terms of the body to lip pivot point as the fulcrum point. Would there actually be a secondary pivot point in the opposite direction, that controls the body rotation in the left to right direction. This might explain the difference in action, when changing treble size. In effect each variable is changing the lures C.O.G. to a degree? Don

I agree with all the points discussed in the previous responses. I might add that in certain circumstances, a curved tail section is used to keep the rear hook in a more level plane to counter the dive angle. Don

Joes board is a good place. Just do a google search for Joes old lures. Don

Maybe two cookie cutters. One on each side of the material.

Not sure if the edge quality would be favorable on the 1/4" thick material. The thing that comes to mind as an example, is the old balsa rubber band powered toy airplanes. I believe that they were die cut. Don

I agree with the use of double face tape. I would also think that by trimming the blank close to finished size, would minimize the blow out.Also sometimes a climbcut can also be the answer. It all depends on the material being used and tool geometry. Don

At least I know that I am not alone. I went as far as to add bifocals to my Sunglasses, for fishing. I never thought that I would have trouble feeding the line through the eye of a hook, but I was wrong. I have a half dozen CVS reading glasses and even some safety glass readers. Don

I looked at the bottles one more time. I can see where I made the mistake. On the hardener bottle it says 9 oz. Combined weight. The resin bottle is labeled 4.5 oz. Once again sorry for the confusion. Lesson learned wear your glasses when reading the fine print. Don

I'll make sure to let you know, if I ever run into a deal like that. I should have given it a bit more thought about the size of the bottles. Now if the shoe was on the other foot. I'd be giving you a hard time, that the 9 oz. bottle must only be available in Texas. lol Don

My mistake Ben, In my haste this a.m. I misinterpreted the package. It should be the 4.5 ounce bottle size. The local True Value hardware store is where I picked up the bottles that I currently have. Don

I have been using D2T that comes in a package that contains two 9 oz. bottles (one resin and one hardener) I believe that it can be found online for around $12. 18 oz. of mixed epoxy can coat a large number of crankbaits. I have used the twin tube variety, but I prefer dispensing and mixing from the bottles. There's a bit of a learning curve when using any type of top coat, but there is a wealth of knowledge here on TU to help you lessen the curve. I would agree that a lure turner would be also included in order to maintain a uniform topcoat. They are easy to make and shouldn't be a huge expense. Don

Bob's spot on with the marine epoxy. Having done both the stitch and glue method and strip method. We always had to top coat with paint or poly urethane. It does have a very amber tone. I also agree with Skeeter and the use of Devcon 2 ton. I know that we are always looking for ways of saving a few bucks here and there. But in the long run, you will most likely discover that you are money ahead. Don

One thing that you may encounter is epoxy blush. It is a wax like film that rises to the surface when the epoxy cures. You can purchase low blush hardener or I believe that it can be removed with Denatured alcohol. I haven't experienced blush when using Devcon 2 Ton. But I have encountered blush when using marine epoxy. Don

Also reminds me of a Pico Perch. Don

Here are few other other options. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/mini-lathes.html Don

If you could find a old Unimat DB200 or SL1000. They were made in Austria. They are very versatile. They can be either a wood turning lathe or metal turning lathe, or even a milling machine. With optional accessories they can become almost any machine including table saw, scroll saw, jointer etc. variable speed using step pulleys. They haven't been in production for several years, but parts are readily available. They have quite a following, which can make them on the expensive side. But they are a quality built machine and they are very small in size. Don

I bought a couple when they first came out. Both came up short of my expectations. I haven't tried the countdown version. I would have a tendency to believe that it may allow a slightly faster retrieve rate. Makes you wonder what some additional ballast or even just upsizing the belly treble hook might do for ones that we have.

I believe that Mark had mentioned "U" profile sanding blocks. I just picked some up today. They look like they should work well. The name on the package is Tadpole II. They appear to be a extruded rubber product. You wrap your sandpaper around them. The package has 4 sizes,1/4" through 5/8". They retail somewhere in the range of $5-$6 per package. A nice item to have regardless if you use a router or not. Don

I found the information in the old book.It specifically dealt with copper plating wood. It required coating the wood with graphite,a vat of acid and copper sulfate solution along with a power supply. Doesn't sound like something a hobbiest would want to deal with in terms of safety and cost.Not exactly sure of the effect that you want to achieve. But you could consider a gold leafing kit or possibly the Rub-N-Buff products. I have heard of people using clear lacquer to seal it with some success. Don

I have a old book. I know that they had a method of plating wood. I will take a look later and report back.

Hi my name is Don.I live west of the twin cities. I am 48 years old and married with two kids a high school age daughter and a son in middle school. I attempt to squeeze in fishing and lure building between their many activities. I have built lures off and on over the last 30+ years. The fear of losing one of my favorite old lures, was the stimulus for attempting my first build. The funny thing is that I still have the old original lure along with my first lure that I made to replace it. I have been helped out by many on this site. I in return try to help others out when I can. Don

You might try a nail set or a center punch.

It appears that he was using a circular hollow hole punch. I know that McMaster-Carr has several in their catalog. Usually they have a taper on both the outside and the inside of the punch. I don't think that .060 Polycarbonate\Lexan material would give you much problem for hammering them out. For thicker material I would consider rigging up a hydraulic bottle jack type press to push the punch through the material. You also may possibly have to modify the draft angle on the punch.

Toad Frog, That looks like a flying Helgramite type of lure?