Inrll
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WOW! Very impressive! -
I have been on a few year hiatus so I'm pretty excited to pick the airbrush back up again. Here's a pair of DT16's. -
Looking good man! I did something like this a while back so I can appreciate what it takes to make that blue show up over orange. -
I did something like this earlier this year using holographic foil tape. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/13044-2014-03-20-202420/ I will be interested to see how yours turns out because I planned to paint more like it this winter.
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Thats interesting... I also saw they have a new nano-quartz gloss resin that is vinyl-ester and uv cure. Not to sure what nano-quartz means but it says it is thier "toughest final coating treatment".
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I hadn't thought about Solarez yellowing. So I just checked a few of my lures that I coated in Solarez almost a year ago and good news, no yellowing that I can see!
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I wanted to create a lot of flash on this one so instead of foiling I went with a sort of holographic tape "pinstripe". Normally when I foil a lure the shoulders of the lure are covered in paint to hide the edges. I think a lot of the reflected light that fish might see comes from this part of the lure because of its angle so to maximize that part of the lure this is what I came up with. What do you all think? -
Thanks fellas. Joe I owe you a lot of credit now that I think about it I think it was one of your lures that I drew inspiration from. -
I pulled the base color pattern from another lure I had seen on here a while back and had been wanting to try. I then put some of my own ideas to it and this is what I ended up with. I'm hoping this will work well this spring in stained water.
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Totally agree Bass 100. I just wanted to caution against using a Dremmel. The angle grinder in the video or a bench grinder will do the trick though. As he said in the video, lower rpms are the key to not burning through it.
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I first dipped in Solarez then buffed on a polishing/grinding wheel and that looked fairly good but as described above there was a good bit of haze built up at the tail of the bait which required extra buffing. Doing this worked fine but it would leave the bill of the lure with a blueish haze no matter the amount of buffing. I moved to brushing it on and this helped in getting a good thin coat all over without getting it on the bill. After curing the brushed on solarez I dip the whole thing in concrete sealer, bill and all, and it gives the Solarez a wet glossy look while also glossing out the bill getting rid of all the little scratches and scuffs. Before I picked up the grinder I tried a dremmel with a felt wheel on the slowest speed and it would sort of burn/melt the solarez no matter how careful I was to keep the wheel moving.
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What about putting mesh down then brushing on Solarez. Next expose the Solarez to UV light for about 10-15 seconds (maybe longer) until it cures to a "gummy" texture then remove the mesh and let the Solarez cure the rest of the way. I think the key would be bushing it on as thin as possible so that the "scales" would be left behind when you lift the mesh vs having them peel up with the mesh. Just a thought.
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Super clean man. I did a Tennessee Shad last year but it wasnt as refined. Very well done! -
I have a couple of LC Pointers in that American Shad color that have caught A LOT of fish and have thought about ways to replicate those scales to no avail. If you look close (on my LC's anyway) the scales actually overlap too. So the scales themselves as well as the method they lay them down are both a mystery.
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Very cool!
