Baitjunkys

This was merley my opinion. Everyone is entitled to there own. I had a guy email me one time 15 minutes after he ordered and wanted a shipping update.

As A mold maker. Even some of my suppliers have bad customer service, But I'm not gonna buy a chinese product because of that. I still will shop quality regardless. Customer service is a Bonus in my book, Not the absolute necessity. Bob is very good at what he does, I try to model my craftsmanship after his. It is tough running a Business by yourself, I'm Lucky My wife is full time with me to complete the team. Bob, Basstackle, Myself, we could all make the cheap molds if we wanted to, and shove them out the door lightning speed. I cant speak for them, But I just cant do it. I wont sacrifice quality for quantity. I would much rather support the Family owned hardware downtown, than Walmart.

Yes Glitter we do.

Well hold out a few days, Bob apparently has friends here that report to him. Im sure he will take care of you.

10 days and your going to the attorney General.... Tuff Crowd...

Yup, Need a single cavity top inject to laminate a grub top to bottom,

You only make smoke when your burning something off "outgassing". Whole lot different then cutting a pvc pipe with a saw.

Plastisol releases Dioxins when heated. I am not gonna recomend a particulate filter for the home guy cooking this stuff in his Microwave. If other big business wants to that is up to them. I can not really believe a major manufacturer, would suggest what they did at another place is acceptable. Pov I really dont care what your msds says, I know what mine says.

As a supplier, I do not recomend a particulate filter, I will bet the farm osha does not either. Just saying. You got my recomendation. That is the best I can provide.

Do you think those rules don't apply to a standard dust mask? A simple N95 Mask does absolutely nothing to stop chlorine gas. Do you know what your trying to stop from breathing in? If so please add that to your recommendation of the dust mask.

When did you send it? I have not seen the question asked? You want a Organic vapor respirator. A N95, N100 Is a dust mask, "Particulates" you may as well put cotton balls in your mouth. A 3M 6006 will cover most gases, You got to block vapors, not dust.

Incorrect, Worm oil most suppliers sell, is straight plasticizer, Either Dop, Or Dinp. Scented worm oil may have some Essential oil in it from some manufacturers.

Incorrect. Worm oil aka plasticizer is not a hazerdous material.

You wont be disapointed. I would not get the digital one tho. I see they got a newer shorter one. I got mine mounted in a endmill holder, you can dial runout right out. The newest version is 1/2 shank. Setup is 10x faster.

Best tool i have bought to date, is the haimer 3d. Setup is is breeze. Very reliable tolerance. I put a renishaw tool setter on my big mill, im learning what i wont go without. Lol

I finnaly setup the 4th axis last week. The controller has no problem running the system. Its just not for precision. Im anal, i try to hold .0005 on everything. I try on fixtures to get closer to .0003..

I cant remember the specs, they claim there burnproof.

Oh I forgot, Bob that is a 2 flute .03 end mill. I do tend to take less Doc, and run higer feed. Biggest thing for me is not having much runout, and hitting exactly were im suppose to. My new machine will be coming with a 20k spindle.

My chinese machine was setup with there proprietory controller, I think it was based on flashcut, before I ever cut a single mold on it, it was upgraded to gecko drives and ethernet smooth stepper. Or something. Forgive me if I dont get the terms correct. I know its geko drives, and has ethernet cable. Running mach 3. Guy in oregon put the 4 axis controll together for me. As for end mills im soley using Htc, which I am told make there own carbide blanks, and cut there own tools. They also supply blanks to a bunch of companys we see cutting there own tools. Usa largest supplier of blanks. Even on my old machine it made a huge difference the the ebay stuff I was buying.

A lot has to do with the cutter quality as well. I only use USA made carbide now, From One single source, I just looked, and I got a good finish in a .125 deep slot, .03125 cutter, .003 doc, at 40 IPM. 8000 rpm. I ran 60 cavity's that day. At 20k Rpm I would easily feed it at 100. On my old stepper machine, I would be lucky to feed at 15 ipm without breaking the tool. I don't use the advisors at all. I am the try it and see type myself. Edit, On a 18 yr old machine as well.

Problem Is accuracy, you can spin a .03 end mill all day long at 24000 rpm, Its absolutely worthless if it can hit the deep groove in the same spot every time. Your gonna find this on a stepper motor machine. And I cant see you feeding nearly fast enough to take advantage of the 24000 rpm, with any accuracy on a stepper machine either. Maybe a new machine, few years of wear and it is essentially useless.

By far not an expert, I learn new stuff all the time. I got a pile of scrap eliminating these type of issues, so its more a trial and error, vs proclaimed expert.

To many people assume plastic fills the entire cavity and pushes the air all out the bottom. If you pour water in a hole it fills from the bottom up, plastic is rising pushing the air right back to the top, gate has plastic coming in. There is no were for the air to go. Except get stuck right in the nose. Gate has zero to do with this issue, if the air cant get out its gonna get stuck. If your cavity is equal in size to your flow, then it is very possible to push it all out the bottom. Tho this is not the case.

Turn the mold upside down on your injector and see what happens. Gravity will show you why it needs a nose vent. Just saying.

I call bs on that. That clearly is air trapped above the top vent line. Simplest solution. A vent right across the gate line. This is not what I consider a big fat bait.