DingerBaits

I will see what I can do for some more info/pictures. I am not too tech savy on this site.

Im about 3 hours away. Basically North West of me. I am literally in the center of Wisconsin. I have a lot of great places to fish around the state.

Or Jail Time!!!!

All great stuff guys. I appreciate it all. I will be looking at the following as soon as I have more open water to play on. Bill length/width, maybe a little more weight, some fine tuning. The bait has the wobble I am looking for though so I really dont want to change that. I had one with 2 g. of ballast, one with 3 g of ballast and one with 4 g of ballast. The 4 g ran the best with the highest speed retrieve and took the longest to blow out. I am wondering if i do a 5 or 6 g ballast if that will balance it out enough with out sinking. Good thing I have about 100 cut bodies to work with and try to figure this out. This whole building my own baits is gratifying yet it is becoming more of an obsession.

I didnt have a lot of time to play with it, and we have almost zero open water up here still. I may try to fine tune it and see what I come up with.

Hey gents, working on some of my redwood square bills and looking for tips on how to keep them from blowing out at higher speeds. I found that with more ballast the chance of it blowing out is less, but if i go too heavy it sits lower than i want it to in the water. Any tips would be greatly appreciated it.

No problem. I am a really good googler according to my wife

Have you checked at your local hardware store for clevis pins? Here is a link to what you are looking for. https://www.pinbax.com/index.asp?mc=Hardware&sc=Pins and Rings

I would think some sort of a buck rivet if i am thinking of the picture i have in my head correctly. They come in all different sizes and materials

Its just Red Wood, not sure if it is California Red wood or not. It has characteristics of cedar but sands and cuts way better than cedar. Less grain swell too. They use it for decking also because of the oils in it that make it rot resistant. Very nice stuff. Still working on it. I have been so swamped lately so not a lot of time to play with potential projects.

Might be doing redwood ones after all of my testing is done.

Its a lace fabric. multiple layers of paint. @mdojet Loves painting with that stuff. Check with him, he is pretty good with it.

Gonna have to paint the real thing on those for now. Trying to convince them to sell them unpainted though.

The ones with the plastic bill are a completely different model. They are a medium diver. Closest one out there to a CB little john with out buying the originals are the DCB FS. I may be in some negotiations with SPRO right now to get some of their stuff.

The company that sold them no longer sells blank lures that I know of. You can buy the real ones unpainted online, but you are paying retail price.

Thats some deep stuff there Musky Glenn. Great points.

I havent done that, i cut my lip while the bait is flat on the band saw. but i would suggest make a jig or a box that you can hold the bait in square so you can cut a straight line.

I would suggest mixing them exact as it is not like fiberglass resin where the more hardener you put in the quicker it cures. Try that, also etex likes it 70+ degrees for optimal curing. I have a incandescent bulb in my turning box on a thermostat control and usually cure it at approx 80 degrees. One other thing that could be playing an issue is if your etex is a little older. You can tell if it is a little older when one of the bottles starts to get a slight amber tint to it. I have had bottles right from the store come like that, so I always check it before i buy it. If it is brand new, both should be clear.

I have been looking a lot more into Red Wood instead of Red or White Cedar. Much easier to sand. I am going to have to call around for that.

You need to mix it exact as a 1:1 ratio. How long are you mixing it for? Temp that it is curing at?

Pull the trigger back with out pushing it down will load the tip, then just hit the air on and then off. Depending on what air brush you have you can removed two of the front pieces just so the needle and cap are left and it will load the tip when you try to spray it since the air flow will not be directed towards the tip. I have an Iwata that i do my splatter patterns with.

I hear yah on the one type of clear coat. I have one type for my wooden baits as of right now, and KBS for all my others. I have not sprayed KBS, but I believe Phil Jarog does. He might be a good guy to ask about that.

I was just suggesting if you were looking at speeding up drying times not spraying it in addition to it. Spray a quick flash coat, let dry 2-5 mins, then re-coat. dries pretty quick. I think KBS takes a little while longer to dry when sprayed but i have not done that. I am old school, just dip and hang.

Sorry, 2k urethane , should have been clear... Get it, Clear

If you are planning on spraying a clear, I would suggest doing a 2 part lacquer base over the KBS. Almost instant dry vs the wait time on the KBS. Make sure you have sufficient fire proof vent system set up and a VOC compliant respirator for yourself. Atomizing particles in the wrong place can be extremely dangerous.