DingerBaits

Ron, if it were me that the lures came from, I would like to know.

I just PM'd you buddy.

Dinger and Get bit have the Bandit 200 KO

Bunch of hippies... I use a 120v base board heater thermostat (Floor thermostat). I hook the light right in line with the thermostat so the thermostat controls when the light is on and off. simple and effective. If you are using a halogen, just make sure it is far enough away from any of the baits, and if the bulb were to break, what ever is around it wont catch on fire. Halogens produce way more heat than other bulbs, so be careful.

Maryland doesnt have incandecent bulbs? Wow! I only use one 60W bulb because i have my rotissiare enclosed, so the heat gets trapped, it is a 16 bait wheel. it stays about 76-80 degrees in there.

I would not get a halogen bulb in there due to the high heat. Use a incandescent. Much safer. A halogen bursts, you are more likely to start a fire due too the excessive heat. Im in Wisconsin and I use a 60 watt bulb on a 120v floor heat thermostat so it will shut off if it gets too hot, and turns on when it gets below temp. Works wonders, also decreases dry times significantly.

I dip, hang, and dab the back with a paper towel like Mark does. Never had an issue, just makes it so you cant walk away with in the first 10 minutes.

You need to make sure you are getting Testors Aztek. I dont feel it smells very bad. I do have a vent system in my basement though. I really only use Aztek now because I am a Aztek dealer. Paint usually does not need thinning. sprays great right from the bottle. They have some really nice colors.

2x what he said above

I have some original baits I painted back in 2012 with some createx FL paints and they have not faded that I have noticed. A lot of times if the bait is sealed in a UV resistant coating it will reduce most of any fading that will happen due to UV light. I do find that Testors Aztek FL colors do work better for my needs, but they are not a full acrylic like Createx (meaning they do have a few solvents in them)

All Createx needs to be thinned if you want the best results from your air brush is what I have found. Try to get it the consistancy of whole milk and you should be good.

DDL, If you are looking for a quiet compressor for a decent price, Look into California Air compressors. Very quiet, Large reserve tank, Oil less, and it should rarely run after you fill the tank. I am looking at getting one of these this winter for when I have nothing to do but paint.

Oil compressors are kind a thing of the past for airbrushing from what I am seeing. Yes they are extremely quiet and reliable. But i just dont like the idea of the pump that is making the air needs oil. If you do go this route, make sure you keep up on the maintenance (oil changes, moisture trap cleaning) to get the best performance out of it.

if you are planning on airbushing.... I would not use a compressor that takes oil. Oil can get in the air line and screw with the paint.

To be perfectly honest, I have never cleaned a blank before I paint. Most of the time I use a primer for plastic or a self etching primer. Whiping the blank down with alcohol shouldn't hurt the blank at all. Long exposure to acetone will eventually destroy the bond between halves or make the plastic more soft than it should be. The Holograph on most blanks is a heat transfer film, so keep it to a minimum. I don't think I am a big fan of the dish soap unless you make sure the blank is completely dry before you paint. not all blanks are completely water tight until there is paint and or clear on top of it. Not sure i answered everything, but hey I tried.

Matt, They are two different manufacturers. You can tell by the type of plastic and by looking at the internals and there are small details taht are different. The only reason why those are clear is because they were dipped in a sealant/clear to ensure there is no water intrusion and it gets rid of the sanding marks for the most part. Be careful with dipping them in acetone for it will eat away some of this sealant/clear.

Tune them after they are painted and cleared with all hardware on. Baits will run different with different clear coats, hooks, split rings. Everything you do to a bait will change the action in one way or another.

Heat up the eye a little bit and pop it off with a knife or a pick. Becareful not to stab yourself.... Not from experience of course...

Dinger has the D7, Basically a flicker shad size 7

I usually catch one, or get smoked by one any time I go out bass fishing. Most of the time its in the shallows throwing swim jigs or buzz baits. But I believe Wisconsin has some of the best musky lakes around. I mean hell it is our state fish.

Neither because you have to pay the PayPal fees and the eBay or Amazon fees also. You get hit twice.

One of my suppliers has them. Line ties in the bills are no where centered, body halves are a little lopsided, eye size is a 3mm for them. Not worth the money or time you would have to put into them to get them to run correctly and paint well.

I found them and got samples, but they are horrible quality, lopsided and not worth the money or time.

I think it is bull spit that it takes some one to threaten to out some one on here or anywhere to get what they need. That is horrible customer support.

Sounds shoty to me...